What is the easiest method to get rid of the export brace connections on the shock towers? I don't have a cutting torch but I do have a grinder and cut off tool.
Takes about 5 minutes with a spot weld cutter(which is a specialized drill bit) and an angle grinder, however, if you dont have a welder, if you use a spot weld cutter you need to be very careful as far as depth goes to make sure you dont cut into the shock tower metal(or if you do, you will have to use body filler to fill it back in). Alternatively, instead of a spot weld cutter you can actually just use an angle grinder to grind away the spot welds, but again, you will need to be careful on depth. The best tool to use for what you want to do is one of those little finger belt sanders like this:
This one is just a Harbor Freight special costing around $40, but if you plan on doing more spot weld removal in the future, its worth the investment(though a better quality one if you intend on doing a lot of spot weld removal down the road)
I’d use a spot weld drill but if you do it right you’ll just cut around the spot welds and then you’ll be left with just the weld to grin/sand now and no holes to fill.
The problem with spot weld cutters is that it is very easy to go too deep(and sometimes the spot welds aren't clean little circles requiring multiple cuts) which is why I suggested the finger sander if no welder to fill in minor holes...much easier to control the depth with the sander. A steady enough hand with an angle grinder and a good flap wheel will do the trick too(though it will probably take somewhat longer because of the increased surface area). If using a spot weld cutter, make sure to pick up a good centering punch....those things like to skip sometimes.
Put a 5/16 bit in your drill, let it spin for a few seconds in the center of the spot weld. Stick a sharp chisel under each spot weld and a crack with a hammer will finish the job. On a scale of 1 to 10, this job is a 1.
Passed on to me by a very experienced body guy (and used by me umpteen times during my build) leaving a perfect surface easy-peasy; Use an angle grinder with a 40 grit flap disc on the spot welds. You'll know when to stop when the metal immediately surrounding a spot weld glows bright orange. That tells you the metal of the piece to be removed has become paper-thin. Then pry or twist off the piece. Grind down the remaining spot welds smooth to the surface. This is like a five minute job with a nice smooth outcome.
Really, I wasn't kidding. With even average hand skills, hit it with an air chisel and you are done. I've had them come off so smooth no grinding was required.
It takes about 10 minutes (5 each side) with a 4 1/2" angle grinder. One just needs to be careful. A chisel help when you get the metal near the spot weld thin. Use a big ole screw driver if you must.
I was going to drill out the spot welds, until I grabbed the mount with my hands and saw it was flexing pretty badly.
I put a large adjustable wrench on it and lifted it up, and then down. The spot welds let go and the bracket was fine.
I think the spot weld guy on the line that day was half asleep.
I think the spot weld guy on the line when mine were put on had OCD...they are tight. Tried using a chisel to break them free but they are solid. I think I'll just use a cut off and cut in contour with the shock tower then grind them smooth. Or maybe just leave them...I'll be installing a solid export brace which will pretty much hide them when installed.
Spot welds on my braces were strong as well. Used spot weld cutting blades to drill them out.
The trick to not going too far with the drill is pretty simple. Drill through till you get a complete ring in the top metal. You don’t have to drill all the way through the top metal. From there use a hammer and chisel to peel the metal apart. The weld will be weakened enough so it just pops loose with a little bit of chisel work.
Spot weld cutter worked out great. First time using it so I might have gone a little too deep, but those blemishes will be hidden by the new export brace.
Thanks for the tip!!!
unless they are interfering with the installation of the export brace, there is no need to get rid of the stubs. in fact you might be able to use them as an additional connection to the export brace by drilling the holes and running bolts through them. that gives you two more connections to really secure the brace.
I used an air chisel. Easy to do especially with the engine out. I did mine with the engine in the car.
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