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I'm going through this process now. As charles said, after removing the lower nut, spring and bracket (held on by two philips screws), you should be able to pull down the vent window glass low enough to release the upper pin from its recess in the frame. Once the top is free, the vent window can be lifted up out of its lower position. The vertical stainless steel division bar has the window track (the long curved piece with the felt and bolt bracket at the bottom) sort of pressed into the division bar. You can carefully work it out a little at a time. I worked mine out from the bottom with a narrow screw driver driven between the track and the bar. Its probably rusted/corroded which makes it a little stubborn to come free. The long track with the bolt bracket is the part that is repoed. I have the new ones but haven't tried to insert them back in the division bar yet. The only difference that I see from the originals is that the original has a clear "plastic" liner over the felt, while the repo just has the felt. The stainless division bar itself is retained in the vent casting by a philips screw at the top, but the bottom has two rivets. Since I haven't found a satisfactory tubular riveting tool to redo the two original division bar type rivets (after drilling them out), I replaced them with two small flathead bolts. Using a large bit (or countersink), I countersunk the tapered bolt heads into the division bar a little so that the top of the head would be flush and not obstruct the repoed track when it was put back in. There is plenty of room on the inside of the vent casting for lock washers and nuts. Today, at a local swap meet, I spoke to a chrome replater that operates out of Annapolis Md. and does a lot of marine replating. He gave me a rough estimate of around $100 to redo a vent casting. I think this is their e-mail address: [email protected]

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