[Shaun @ Street or Track]

OK, so I have the right size socket and have removed the surrounding bolts, but how do I remove the 15/16th bolt in the center of the pulley?

When I turn it, it turns over the engine...

Thanks

Shaun

 

[66shawn]

The best way is to use an impact gun.. If you don't have one, you can take a long 1/2' drive breaker bar, socket and a hammer.. Hold the breaker bar with one hand and hit it with the hammer in the other... You need a sharp impact to break that bolt loose.. It's probably torqued to 100 ft/lbs or so...

You can place something on the flywheel to keep it from rotating too - just be careful you don't bend it if its an automatic.

 

[whisperer]

hehe, I use an impact wrench. that makes it REAL easy. If you don't have that you need to use a "poor mans impact wrench". That means from under the car put your ratchet/breaker bar on the bolt and while holding it near the extension, hit it with a big hammer in the direction that makes it turn counter-clockwise. This will overcome the engine turning from the inersia of the wrench. If you are using good tools, pad the wrench with a shop rag so you don't bang it up. I used to use a soft faced dead blow hammer and that works well, but any BFH will work. Remember, it's the speed that does the work here.

After that to remove the ballancer you will need a special puller availible at parts stores or you can rent one from a rental place.

Hal
Love hard, drive fast, wear your seat belt.

PS, thats's my 'bird...... My Mustang is too ugly to take pictures of yet........*G*.

http://www.teleport.com/~cosa/bird2.jpg

 

[Dean_T]

As a last resort and do this only if you're extremely cheap like I am and feeling lucky is to wedge a huge Ol' humongous screw driver in the teeth of the flywheel (if an auto trans car) and then use a breaker bar to remove the center bolt. So far I haven't busted a tooth...

Air tools, I can only dream... *G*

Dean T

Shikatta Ga Nai - "It cannot be helped"

 

[Guest]

so using the aforementioned "poor mans impact wrench" technique, how does one go about torquing that bolt back to the 100 ft-lb? A very well controlled pound with the hammer?
enquiring minds want to know....


[color:blue]'65 wimbledon white original coupe I6
'99 silver convertible V6

Check out Mike & Jackie's '65 Mustang </font color=blue>

 

[Guest]

I thought that to remove the crank pulley you don't have to remove the dampner bolt. Some light taps with a rubber hammer sould loosen it up

 

[Guest]

If you have the luxury of a manual transmission, then put it in first, block the rear wheels and aplly force.
You will probably feel the drive-line flex a little (clutch-plate springs?). Don't worry about breaking anything, you won't be ably to apply as much force to the drive-line as the engine...

 

[johnpro]

This is asumming all electrical and starter are still hooked up:

Put a 2 ft breaker bar on the bolt. Turn clockwise 'till it hits the A-frame. Hit the ignition switch (have coil disconnected so it can't start) ... presto, the bolt is off.

Use this at your own risk ... I've done it before, but prefer to use my impact gun *LOL*.

If you always do what you've always done,
You'll always get what you've always got
http://www.classic-mustang.net/johnpro

 

[BillScott]

i used a 2X4 with holes drilled to fit bolt holes in damper. then i got long bolts to go thru to 2X4 to damper bolt holes. 2X4 is made to hit frame member and then drill a hole for socket to go thru to turn nut off. you will need this to put damper back on to get 90 ft-lbs to tighen nut when installing.