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By hub do you mean the bearing races? A drift pin punch will remove the races. Tap around the race until they come out. You can drive the new ones in with a seal/bearing punch.
 

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Put the nuts on the end of the studs and drop the whole thing face down on the concrete?

Pushing it out with a hydraulic press is probably the right way. The drum is normally swaged around the studs to hold it on, so grinding around them might help.
 

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A press is the best way. I took mine to a local Meineke and had them press them out for me. Forgot how much I paid them as I don't have a press at home. Might as well take your new drums with you so they can press the new ones on the hub.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
A press is the best way. I took mine to a local Meineke and had them press them out for me. Forgot how much I paid them as I don't have a press at home. Might as well take your new drums with you so they can press the new ones on the hub.
Cool will do. I have a meineke down the street. Any idea how much they charge?
 

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Depending on the shop figure anywhere from $20 to $40 to press them. I’ve got a press but didn’t use it on those. If you are going to be doing more work that need a press they can be had for under $100.
 

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What you want to do is put the assembly in your press and crank down on the center until you hear a loud bang and cast iron shrapnel shoots everywhere!

749554


Or not.
 

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If you happen to live on a farm, have a BIG John Deere tractor with front Loader, place the bucket on top of the hub snout. Lower bucket till weight of tractor pushes the hub out.
Does it have to be a Deere or will a Mahindra work?...

I thought dude was talking about the races. Didn’t know the whole thing pressed out. The @Nailbender pics look like the original HF press plates under load.
 

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Way back then there was a tool that looked like a hole saw that fit tight to the stud that had a stop on it so if would not cut into the hub and cut the drum from the hub
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
UPDATE: SOLVED

So, I was planning to replace my wheel studs anyways(had some on hand). So I took a big ****ing hammer, and knocked each one out. On the last one, the hub free'd from the drum.

After clean up, I placed the hub in the new drum and it spun freely. There really is no need to 'press', unless its really stuck on there with the studs out. I believe the studs are what lock the wheel and hub together.

After I took some brake cleaner, scotch brite and a wire wheel to it.

749574
749575
749576
 

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Good job! I've put the lug nut on a stud, then taken a large deep socket, put it over the head of the stud, upended the unit onto the cement floor then used a heavy hammer with a brass punch to knock the stud out of the hub. I'll bet that all of your studs had serrated edges that pressed into the hub.
 

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Before I converted to front discs I had to replace the front drums. The shop manual said they were pressed in. I took the drums to a NAPA with a press and they pressed the hubs out. It did make a loud pop when the hubs came free of the drums. It took a lot of pressure to break the hubs loose. The hubs went into the Ford NOS drums that were on a shelf at Velde Ford in Vero Beach, FL without having to press them in. They had been sitting in that dealership so long that they had dust and sufface rust in the outer drums. The braking surface has a coat of protective coating on them. The parts guy was surprised that he had any in stock for a 65 Mustang. The weren't made in China like the Wagners I looked at. They were made in Canada.
 

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Does it have to be a Deere or will a Mahindra work?...

I thought dude was talking about the races. Didn’t know the whole thing pressed out. The @Nailbender pics look like the original HF press plates under load.
If it not green--It is no good, will not work.
All is green here, well- except our Yanmar. I just don't pay attention, pretend it's green.

Take care my friend.
 

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I had to use my 20 ton press to remove mine. They were stuck!!!
 
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