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Discussion Starter #1
Ok well I sort of know how. I have a timing light yet I'm missing the timing marker so that's kind of pointless. If anyone know's where I could buy a replacement timing marker (for the engine block) I would appreciated it. (Also, my engine is a 1985 5.0 and I've heard the timing marker should be on the passenger side but I have a 1966 radiator on it that has the lower hose on that side which blocks everything. What should I do? And does that mean that the water pump isn't correct for this engine? I'm pretty confused)

The real question I'm asking is: I've heard you need to plug the vacuum advance on the distributor while the engine is running. How do you do that? My engine won't stay running if I try to plug it. And I don't think it will start if I plug it while it's not running. Can someone please clear this up?

Thank you, and I'm sorry I'm such a mess.
 

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OK, if the engine reacts at all when you disconnect the vacuum advance, it's not hooked up right anyway.

I have to ask, what pulleys do you have on that engine? And what harmonic balancer? You may need to make some changes, to get everything working the way you want.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
What do you mean I have to change things around? Like what? I'm willing to make changes because I know everything is all messed up on this car.
 

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Well, if you have mix-and-match pulleys, etc, with your 5.0 and 289 timing cover, you need to do some things. The 66 timing cover had the LH timing mark cast-in, later it was bolted on. You can get a 5.0 damper that is otherwise identical to the 66, so you can use the 66 timing cover, pulleys, alternator brackets, whatever. Now we need to know what you have to figure out how close to this you already are.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
How can I figure out what I have? And where could I find the necessary parts? (BTW I'm pretty sure my mechanic put on the 5.0 damper because it came with a 289 damper on it, but what about the timing marker and all that other stuff?)
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
I just looked it up, and for a 1985 5.0 I need a 50 ounce imbalance damper. How can I figure out if that is what is on the car now?
 

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I've always done it backwards. I use the WOT (wide open throttle) method and then check to see where my initial is.

WOT: adjust timing till you just get pinging at full throttle when driving under load, then back off until you don't. Then check your initial so if you change things (like pulling dizzy) you can get it set close before you take a drive. I always carry a 1/2" wrench in the car for adjusting when needed.

This not the textbook method, but it has worked for me for years.

Dave
 

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I just looked it up, and for a 1985 5.0 I need a 50 ounce imbalance damper. How can I figure out if that is what is on the car now?
Unless you show us photos, we'll have to ask questions. How many bolts are holding the lower (crank) pulley on?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I've always done it backwards. I use the WOT (wide open throttle) method and then check to see where my initial is.

WOT: adjust timing till you just get pinging at full throttle when driving under load, then back off until you don't. Then check your initial so if you change things (like pulling dizzy) you can get it set close before you take a drive. I always carry a 1/2" wrench in the car for adjusting when needed.

This not the textbook method, but it has worked for me for years.

Dave
Thanks for the advice but I'm too afraid of screwing something up with that method. Lol
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Ok well I have some new information and some new questions (always more questions than answers). Well I've always thought the water pump never belonged to this engine but today I found out for sure. I went on the autozone website and looked up a replacement water pump for a 1985 and it was on the other side. Then I did a little more research and realized that this timing could not belong to this engine if the water pump didn't belong to this engine since the bolts would not match up with the original timing cover.

All of this makes me come to the realization that the owner before me definitely messed around with the internal components of this engine and the timing chain was definitely exposed at one time or another and most likely they did some kind of crappy rebuild. So my question to you all is, is it possible that the engine run with the timing chain a tooth off or so? If it is possible, would it cause the engine running roughly like this without me being able to do anything at all (especially never being able to time it properly)? And my last question now is, is what I just asked LIKELY?

Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Yeah I know and it works fine except for the fact that I don't have a timing marker because of it. Do you guys think that the car is dimming rough because of something to do with the timing chain? Should I take the timing cover off and check it out?
 

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Yeah I know and it works fine except for the fact that I don't have a timing marker because of it. Do you guys think that the car is dimming rough because of something to do with the timing chain? Should I take the timing cover off and check it out?
If the timing chain were installed improperly it wouldn't run at all.
 

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I think you need to start with a piston stop (one that screws in place of the sparkplug) and a degree wheel to find true TDC and put a pointer on it.
 
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