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Discussion Starter #1
I’ve been sitting here off and on, spinning it counter clockwise...with the valve covers off...and nothing is coming out.
 

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Did you pack the oil pump with Vaseline? If not, it can take a long, long, long time to finally get enough liquid to displace all the air.
 

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Are you spinning it by hand or with an electric drill?


I've never packed one with Vaseline and I don't remember it ever taking more than about 30 seconds with an electric drill. You will know when it's pumping as it will drag the drill down noticeably.
 

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^^^ Yes, be ready when it starts pumping, the drill will want to twist your wrists.

Do you have a good seal between the pickup tube and the pump?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I’ve been spinning it with an electric drill for awhile, little over an hour.

I don’t know if it makes a difference or not, but i tried spark plugs in and out.

I don’t know about the pump seal. It’s been sitting for about 20 years, and was running when it stopped. I guess I’ll have to drop the oil pan? Check the pump seal? Pack it with Vaseline?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
There IS oil in the crankcase, right?
Well **** me.

Sorry. I’m no mechanic lol.

I poured the oil through the valve cover. I saw one video of someone pouring it though the distributor hole...I’m guessing i should’ve done that.
 

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Well **** me.

Sorry. I’m no mechanic lol.

I poured the oil through the valve cover. I saw one video of someone pouring it though the distributor hole...I’m guessing i should’ve done that.
Pouring it through the valve cover should not be an issue. The oil drains right down to the crankcase from there. That's where 99.99% of folks will put new oil in after an oil change. You either have a bad oil pump, the pickup isn't doing its job either because of a crack or it's clogged, or it's the wrong one, or the shaft from the distributor to the oil pump isn't engaged or broken. I've primed my oil pump by hand for years, and it never took longer than a minute or so to start getting oil up through the pushrods.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Pouring it through the valve cover should not be an issue. The oil drains right down to the crankcase from there. That's where 99.99% of folks will put new oil in after an oil change. You either have a bad oil pump, the pickup isn't doing its job either because of a crack or it's clogged, or it's the wrong one, or the shaft from the distributor to the oil pump isn't engaged or broken. I've primed my oil pump by hand for years, and it never took longer than a minute or so to start getting oil up through the pushrods.
With the help of this video:

I think I have found my issue. I think as I pulled my distributor and the shaft pulled up/disengaged as I removed it...as described in the video. This car was running before it sat for 20 years, so I don't think its the wrong one but won't rule out that the pickup is cracked/clogged.

Looks like I got a long day ahead of me. I'll have to drop the oil pan and go from there.

May also explain why I can't full drop my distributor all the way down.
 

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May also explain why I can't full drop my distributor all the way down.

If the shaft dropped into the oil pan then it should be easier to seat your distributor. The shaft also should have a retainer that prevents it from pulling out. Whether your retainer is there or not is of course not known. You should be able to see the shaft in there if it is there.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
May also explain why I can't full drop my distributor all the way down.

If the shaft dropped into the oil pan then it should be easier to seat your distributor. The shaft also should have a retainer that prevents it from pulling out. Whether your retainer is there or not is of course not known. You should be able to see the shaft in there if it is there.
I don’t think it dropped in the oil pan. I think it just unseated from the pump, but still propped up. I can see it from the top of the distributor hole
 

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Just an idea if the pump won't suck from the pan, remove the filter and dump some oil backwards into the pump. I don't know if it will make any difference, but it should be pretty eazy to try.
 

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With a battery powered drill it took about 10-15s to start showing pressure on my mechanical gauge. (no Vaseline used). When it starts to build pressure you'll notice the drill getting loaded down a bit. I had 52psi and oil was pumping up through all the push rods shortly after that.
 

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At this point I would just drop the pan and install a new oil pump and pickup. If you have been spinning that shaft for an hour and its unseated from the pump, maybe sitting on the edge of it, who knows what the end of it looks like by now. Unless you can get the shaft out and inspect it....
 

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I would thank your lucky stars you chose to prime it which most people would not think of with a used motor. Firing it with no oil pressure - bad juju...


Unfortunately, you may be finding out why the car was parked 20 years ago. Its never a bad idea to pull the pan on an older motor, clean out the gunk, check the Oil pump, pull a rod bearing and check to see the condition of the crank. Give you a chance to see what you are dealing with, especially if the motor is an unkown to you as in you just bought the car with little to no history on the motor. If the shaft unseated from the pump, it should drop back in when lined up pretty easily. Make sure any sockets and extensions you may be using to spin the shaft are taped together, Nothing worse than hearing your socket hit the oil pan!
 

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You oil is likely gunked up and is so thick it would not pump or drain. As others have said, pull the pan and clean it out. Replacing the pump and checking a bearing or two while you are there is not a bad idea.
 

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Are you spinning it the correct direction?
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
I would thank your lucky stars you chose to prime it which most people would not think of with a used motor. Firing it with no oil pressure - bad juju...


Unfortunately, you may be finding out why the car was parked 20 years ago. Its never a bad idea to pull the pan on an older motor, clean out the gunk, check the Oil pump, pull a rod bearing and check to see the condition of the crank. Give you a chance to see what you are dealing with, especially if the motor is an unkown to you as in you just bought the car with little to no history on the motor. If the shaft unseated from the pump, it should drop back in when lined up pretty easily. Make sure any sockets and extensions you may be using to spin the shaft are taped together, Nothing worse than hearing your socket hit the oil pan!
Little history behind the car.
Its been in my family since the early 70s and meticulously maintained by my father up until his sudden death in 2001. The car has 495,XXX miles on it. I won't rule out that the parts are bad, but as I've stated before the car was up and running before it just sat there. When my father passed away, no one had the means or skills to maintain it at the time. For the time he committed to his baby, we had the mustang follow the hearse to his burial. Here we are now...Me trying to get is started back up. And thanks to this forum for guiding my in the write direction with priming the pump.

You oil is likely gunked up and is so thick it would not pump or drain. As others have said, pull the pan and clean it out. Replacing the pump and checking a bearing or two while you are there is not a bad idea.
I did drop the pan 2 weeks ago and cleaned it out. Looks like I'll have to pull it again, I really think that the oil pump shaft unseated itself when I pulled the distributor. Though after attempting to prime the oil pump for so long, I am starting to think theres a buncha crap in the oil/crank area due to the friction around the base of the oil pump and tip of the shaft.
 
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