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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I broke the cam in with Rotella, and changed the oil and put Rotella back in. Now how many miles should I use the Dino Juice before I go full synthetic? And is their a preferance of Royal Purple or Mobil 1 ?
Thanks Joe
 

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Basic guidleline I've heard is to go a minimum of 500 miles on conventional before switching to syn, but up to 1500 miles is preferred to make sure the rings have a good seal before you use full syn oil.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
That's what I thought, any less and the syn. is too slick to seat the rings. Now 1200 more miles, YIPEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE...............
Lovin'It
 

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My recommendation would be to wait until 2000 miles and then change over. I would shy away from Royal Purple or Mobil as their current chemistry is suspect.(see www.bobistheoilguy.com) If you want to use a "real" synthetic motor oil, I recommend AMSOIL or Red Line. If you can find some aged Mobil 1(a year or more old), you will be fine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I have had too much trouble with Amsoil,Might do Redline. All the oil is changing,liked to have never found the older Rotella CH, all of it was CJ
Also heard a lot of good things about Pennzoil Platinum full Synthetic. Any ideals on it.
And what weight would I need 5w-30 ?
 

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OfnaJoe said:
I have had too much trouble with Amsoil,Might do Redline. All the oil is changing,liked to have never found the older Rotella CH, all of it was CJ
Also heard a lot of good things about Pennzoil Platinum full Synthetic. Any ideals on it.
And what weight would I need 5w-30 ?
I use Mobil 1 15W-50 and am satisfied. As far as I know, that is the only weight of Mobil 1 that has the full load of ZDDP.

I would wait until you have 2500-3000 miles (minimum) before switching to a synthetic.

Z. Ray
 

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Does anyone have any real factual information that instructs not to use synthetic from day one?
If so, please post it (that wouldn't include message boards, BTW).
I know, I've heard all the stories about rings not sealing, etc.. But, I once worked for Volvo Truck as a power systems engineer, and we put synthetic in brand new high dollar diesels every day. Penske, amongst others, requested this, and all the brands of engines we used (Cummins, CAT, Detriot Diesel, and Volvo) approved of it. Seeing as how the combustion pressures in these engines far exceed any gas street engine, I have a hard time swallowing that there is any harm in using synthetic from the start. Same goes for using Rotella. I don't disagree that there might be a difference, I just suspect the difference isn't great enough to be significant.
On the other hand, using Rotella and putting synthetic in later probably isn't hurting anything either, but I'm just curious if this is real or was started with some numbnut that couldn't get his rings to seat or cam to break in and blindly blamed it on his synthetic oil.
 

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I will eloborate on this. I have been a lubricants representative for an oil company in St. Paul for 5 years and have been an AMSOIL representative for 12. I am no tribologist(oil expert), but I do know enough to get myself in trouble ;) . In years past, the main reason manufacturers shyed away from using synthetic during a "break-in" period was for ring seat. It was thought that if you didnt allow the rings to seat in the cylinders, you would have oil blow-by. Today, there are many cars being factory filled with synthetics(although some arent really synthetic, but that is another discussion). I am not sure if that has anything to do with cylinder honing finishes, but that would be my guess. I have run synthetics on the dyno right out of the box and have had NO issues. Someone brought up the issue with Zincdithiophosphate(ZDP)which is the anti-wear additive that was used in our motor oils until the SL rating was introduced. SL has some ZDP, and now the current spec of SM has no ZDP...not good for an engine with a mechanical valvetrain. Be aware of this, or you will have premature engine wear on the top end. Diesel oils up until last the current spec of CJ-4 also had ZDP, but now they are absent of this as well. So what do you do? Do your research, or find a stash of old motor oil that is pre-SL. Synthetics carry too many advantages not to use them, but you need to study or ask someone who knows. I cant speak of all the oil companies, but I do know ALOT about Amsoils products. All, except for the XL series motor oils they produce, have ZDP, their 0w30 and 20w50 have high amounts of ZDP. Check out thier website, or any other manufacturers to find out what they offer. I have put together many high dollar Ford engines and they have all run and continue to run on AMSOIL motor oils, with NO issues...just benefits, especially lower oil temps. If you have a windsor based motor, this is the oil for you. If you knew the oil temp a windsor makes, it would scare you!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
You got me into looking back at Amsoil, It's been 25 years since I have done that. Sounds like they are better now than then. What weight oil do you suggest? I live in Southwest Va.
 

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You got me into looking back at Amsoil, It's been 25 years since I have done that. Sounds like they are better now than then. What weight oil do you suggest? I live in Southwest Va.
Let me know what engine you have, how many miles are on it and what you have been using for oil. I can make a suggestion for you and I'll even sell it to you for cost plus freight, since you are a fellow Mustang enthusiast!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
'74 block bored .060 with '69 heads ported and polished almost to the max. with 351W valves.
KB .200 domed pistons. Comp Cam valve train with 500/500 cam. Weiand Stealth Intake, 1/2 -4 hole carb spacer. Holley 670 DP carb. Holley Fuel pump.Melling HD oil pump. Hedman headers, Flow master Super 44's, custom H-pipe.
376 HP- 388 ft/lbs [email protected] 5800rpm..
About 300 miles on the engine. Cam break in with Rotella then change again with Rotella and Wix filter.
 
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