[Guest]

hi doug2stanger here
compared the slack in the power steering ball stud
on my wifes 65 coupe. found out in comparison
that the one on my 68 coupe is worn out. i can tighten
that little bolt on the bottom, doesnt do squat to
make it any better. my question is how do i get that
stud out. do i have to take that whole thing apart.?
what holds that thing in place? as you can telll i have
never work on one of these. would be very thankful
for some help in this area. i also want to thank the
guy who told me to check the bolt. i never even
knew their was a bolt there. how does that bolt work?
thanks again

douglas rhine of nebraska
the man with the sad dog face

 

[Dees67]

That is your power steering control valve assembly. It's got several springs and
valves in it and most likely it needs to be rebuilt. You can do it yourself fairly
easily, or you can buy a rebuilt (you'll need to send yours in as a core replacement).
Search the forum for "control valve"; there have been a number of posts recently
concerning this procedure. It's not too tough.



Rich
'67 C-code 'vert (Dees67)
'69 GT FB (project car)
Check out my band: Brickyard Blues

 

[charlie65_67]

There is no adjustment on the control valve assy or anywhere else on the steering gear, that will correct a loose ball stud. The stud is retained inside the sleeve, by a pair of ball stud seats/sleeve/spring assy, which over time simply wear out. The ballstud must be disconnected from the pitman arm, and then the control valve assy removed from the drag link, for a bench rebuild. Kits are available with a new ball stud, clamshell & spring, dust shield and clamp. The sleeve as I recall is a seperate item and rather pricey. Typically you can reuse the old one again.

65 Hi-Po F/B
67 GTA F/B (small block)
MCA 27479<P ID="edit"><FONT SIZE=-1>Edited by charlie65_67 on 03/16/01 07:13 PM (server time).</FONT></P>

 

[Guest]

You will need to buy or rent a small gear puller to push the stud out from the pitman arm. Once the stud is out and all the hoses are off, the assembly must be unthreaded from the tierod. Really worn valve assemblies often have a broken socket and stripped threads and are not readily rebuildable with a soft kit. The answer in this case it to buy a rebuilt unit and turn in your old one. The old tierod valve and slave cylinder PS system was not one of Ford's better ideas.

Mustang Lovers ---- A Box-O-Choclates !!!

 

[theboogins]

I've looked all over for a puller that will fit with no luck. I had to beat mine out with a sledge and crow bar and they didn't like it much.

Where could one find one?

Thanks.

J. Boggs


http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1574992&a=11972962&p=43108527.jpg

 

[Guest]

Found a pitman arm puller at a Harbor Freight tools for about $6. It was a little larger than perfect, but by rotating it around on the pitman arm, found a spot where it would work. Had to come down on top to the hex head on the puller from above using all my ratchet extensions.

White `66 coupe with `70 302 (formerly TEDMAN)
Just remember...wherever you go..there you are..buying gas again.