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Discussion Starter #43

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Discussion Starter #46
That was with 225/45"s last year at Grissom AFB concrete. I've got 245/40's RE71's arriving tomorrow. An inch more of goodness per tire! I've got a driving school with a SCCA instructor on the 17th on the same concrete. Looking forward to it! Look Ma, no torque boxes.
Apparently this happens every time I'm at Grissom. I had absolutely no clue!
 

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What kind of speeds are you hitting on a typical road course?
 

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Discussion Starter #49
What kind of speeds are you hitting on a typical road course?
Autocross course. 72 mph at 4 points this Sunday at Grissom according to the rev limiter. Probably 65-ish on Saturday's course. That would be normal for a high HP car on most courses. Huge difference between concrete and asphalt. And even between sealed asphalt and coarse.
 

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Discussion Starter #50
What, are you trying to imitate a 911?
I will be at Michiana PCA Autocross #1 on the 19th of July at the Tire Rack Test track in South Bend. They just love the Arvinode exhaust on my Mustang, or they comment about it often under their breath anyway?
 

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Discussion Starter #52 (Edited)
Show what the dent under the go pedal in the floor pan looks like...:p

Allen
It's a trade secret! Learning how to manage the go pedal is my biggest challenge. Followed by braking without nanny helpers. I really figured out the braking thing this weekend, I think. Brake, then turn. Easy to say but hard to do after getting out of the tow vehicle.
 

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Try thinking hang on WOT an extra microsecond, brake AND turn - read up on trail braking, its game changing.

I left foot brake and have for 20 years in Autocross. You have to do it on the street enough to get comfortable doing it in a competition but it opens a whole new world of being able to make minute adjustments in weight balance during a corner. If she starts pushing in a corner, just a touch, I mean the lightest kiss of the pedal while keeping the throttle steady and the front will bite WITHOUT HAVING TO SLOW DOWN! That's right two pedals down but with finesse!

Transition is key in braking especially with leaf springs. LEafs wrap in both directions (Accel and brake) and during wrap the spring rate changes adding yet another variable to deal with in the corner. So in each corner it wraps one way under braking, then unwraps and wraps in the other direction under acceleration. So you can see your spring rate is going up under braking then down as it unwraps to level then up under acceleration again in each corner. Being able to brake and instead of lifting on the brake pedal, you start to gently feed throttle a little early it settles the rear end by bringing the pinion up gently so when you gently come off the brakes the spring rate change doesn't bite you. There is a lot of finesse to doing it right but it sure makes transitions smoother which allows you to brake later giving you that extra microsecond of WOT. Its also helpful in decreasing radius sweepers. Hold the throttle steady and just kiss the brakes to keep the front end from pushing. You do however have to strategize as you cannot LFB if you have a mid corner shift...

I think you have Meier springs IIRC which will help immensely. They are biased forward so the front of the spring acts more like a solid beam than a spring which gets rid of spring wrap. This allows you to brake much deeper in the corners, try it. I have 5 leaf Global Wests and they are really not that stiff surprisingly. I added a half leaf (John at Opentracker suggested it) to the top of the springs and clamped them in two places essentially making a beam out of the front of the spring. Again surprisingly its not that stiff as all the spring happens in the rear half now. What I noticed immediately is I could run WOT deeper into a corner brake hard and turn in at the same time. The rear end is completely "happy" and doesn't try to snap around. The Watts LInk gives me the confidence to know right where the edge is - what a blast!!!

Back to your original issue: I brake and turn in in one motion depending on a corner. The goal is that as the weight moves forward I am taking advantage of the extra weight to plant the front tire in the turn and use the weight to get the tire to bite. My car tends to understeer if I don't do this. The key to being successful in Trail-braking like this is the transition off brakes to power. It simply MUST Be smooth or the car will spin and the smother you are, the later you can brake. Hence the left foot braking.

Do some reading on trail braking. I'm totally jealous, my car is up on stands with a problem in the clutch... Sigh

BTW, do I remember correctly that you do NOT run subframe connectors? That could be the reason you are lifting on throttle...
 

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lol....Makes me realize I could probably never be truly competitive on the track, too old to learn new tricks and too in love with my car and life. In my younger days I was very competitive on the twisting country roads, one of things I was really good at, I was driving 289 and 6 banger Fords against 396 Chevys and 383 Mopars so I had to rule the turns.
But being self taught, I learned a lot of things wrong. Heal and toe? I am backwards, heal on brake and toe on the gas. Left foot braking? Never learned. Now in my 60s, lot of instincts built in, and no longer bullet proof like I was in my teens and twenties.
Several weeks ago my wife and I were in the Slingshot accelerating onto the interstate and a big truck tire bounced out of a truck, cars on all sides. Instead of hitting the brakes I downshifted hard and darted through a closing gap, between the wheel and the truck in the next lane, all the while with my wife screaming beside me. Don't remember thinking about it, just did it. After all these years, habits, good and bad both are pretty well part of me. Hard to admit, I just wouldn't hit that nth level.
 

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Try thinking hang on WOT an extra microsecond, brake AND turn - read up on trail braking, its game changing.

I left foot brake and have for 20 years in Autocross. You have to do it on the street enough to get comfortable doing it in a competition but it opens a whole new world of being able to make minute adjustments in weight balance during a corner. If she starts pushing in a corner, just a touch, I mean the lightest kiss of the pedal while keeping the throttle steady and the front will bite WITHOUT HAVING TO SLOW DOWN! That's right two pedals down but with finesse!

Transition is key in braking especially with leaf springs. LEafs wrap in both directions (Accel and brake) and during wrap the spring rate changes adding yet another variable to deal with in the corner. So in each corner it wraps one way under braking, then unwraps and wraps in the other direction under acceleration. So you can see your spring rate is going up under braking then down as it unwraps to level then up under acceleration again in each corner. Being able to brake and instead of lifting on the brake pedal, you start to gently feed throttle a little early it settles the rear end by bringing the pinion up gently so when you gently come off the brakes the spring rate change doesn't bite you. There is a lot of finesse to doing it right but it sure makes transitions smoother which allows you to brake later giving you that extra microsecond of WOT. Its also helpful in decreasing radius sweepers. Hold the throttle steady and just kiss the brakes to keep the front end from pushing. You do however have to strategize as you cannot LFB if you have a mid corner shift...

I think you have Meier springs IIRC which will help immensely. They are biased forward so the front of the spring acts more like a solid beam than a spring which gets rid of spring wrap. This allows you to brake much deeper in the corners, try it. I have 5 leaf Global Wests and they are really not that stiff surprisingly. I added a half leaf (John at Opentracker suggested it) to the top of the springs and clamped them in two places essentially making a beam out of the front of the spring. Again surprisingly its not that stiff as all the spring happens in the rear half now. What I noticed immediately is I could run WOT deeper into a corner brake hard and turn in at the same time. The rear end is completely "happy" and doesn't try to snap around. The Watts LInk gives me the confidence to know right where the edge is - what a blast!!!
My friends who raced Mini's and SAABs talked about using their left foot on the brake … I never raced a FWD car so I didn't pay that much attention. I just noticed that their inside rear wheel was never on the ground!
Sounds like you have it down pat. Enjoy the ride.
 

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My friends who raced Mini's and SAABs talked about using their left foot on the brake … I never raced a FWD car so I didn't pay that much attention. I just noticed that their inside rear wheel was never on the ground!
Sounds like you have it down pat. Enjoy the ride.
Its funny you should say that, I blew the rear spring rubbers on the Mustang at Sears Point and due to work travel could not fix it before my track day at Laguna Seca so I took an old SAAB SPG out to Laguna. There I met someone else running a Saab who told me about left foot braking. We did it for Turbo Lag, brake into a corner, before the apex we would floor it so by the time we needed power the turbo was spun up and I found I could exit the corners MUCH faster! Been doing it ever since ;o)
 

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Discussion Starter #58
Not running SFC would have the opposite effect, the chassis flexing will tend to NOT lift a tire. Just like an old pickup truck that gets as much articulation from frame flex as the suspension.
Using the Miata as a reference and working corners. The hardtop’s will carry a tire while the verts wont. I have never felt my car was the wet noodle it is supposed to be.
Try thinking hang on WOT an extra microsecond, brake AND turn - read up on trail braking, its game changing.

I left foot brake and have for 20 years in Autocross. You have to do it on the street enough to get comfortable doing it in a competition but it opens a whole new world of being able to make minute adjustments in weight balance during a corner. If she starts pushing in a corner, just a touch, I mean the lightest kiss of the pedal while keeping the throttle steady and the front will bite WITHOUT HAVING TO SLOW DOWN! That's right two pedals down but with finesse!

Transition is key in braking especially with leaf springs. LEafs wrap in both directions (Accel and brake) and during wrap the spring rate changes adding yet another variable to deal with in the corner. So in each corner it wraps one way under braking, then unwraps and wraps in the other direction under acceleration. So you can see your spring rate is going up under braking then down as it unwraps to level then up under acceleration again in each corner. Being able to brake and instead of lifting on the brake pedal, you start to gently feed throttle a little early it settles the rear end by bringing the pinion up gently so when you gently come off the brakes the spring rate change doesn't bite you. There is a lot of finesse to doing it right but it sure makes transitions smoother which allows you to brake later giving you that extra microsecond of WOT. Its also helpful in decreasing radius sweepers. Hold the throttle steady and just kiss the brakes to keep the front end from pushing. You do however have to strategize as you cannot LFB if you have a mid corner shift...

I think you have Meier springs IIRC which will help immensely. They are biased forward so the front of the spring acts more like a solid beam than a spring which gets rid of spring wrap. This allows you to brake much deeper in the corners, try it. I have 5 leaf Global Wests and they are really not that stiff surprisingly. I added a half leaf (John at Opentracker suggested it) to the top of the springs and clamped them in two places essentially making a beam out of the front of the spring. Again surprisingly its not that stiff as all the spring happens in the rear half now. What I noticed immediately is I could run WOT deeper into a corner brake hard and turn in at the same time. The rear end is completely "happy" and doesn't try to snap around. The Watts LInk gives me the confidence to know right where the edge is - what a blast!!!

Back to your original issue: I brake and turn in in one motion depending on a corner. The goal is that as the weight moves forward I am taking advantage of the extra weight to plant the front tire in the turn and use the weight to get the tire to bite. My car tends to understeer if I don't do this. The key to being successful in Trail-braking like this is the transition off brakes to power. It simply MUST Be smooth or the car will spin and the smother you are, the later you can brake. Hence the left foot braking.

Do some reading on trail braking. I'm totally jealous, my car is up on stands with a problem in the clutch... Sigh

BTW, do I remember correctly that you do NOT run subframe connectors? That could be the reason you are lifting on throttle...
I have been using my left foot for braking daily for years due to sciatica in my right leg. Wearing size 13 shoes makes tough to accomplish in the Mustang though. I see guys with skinny slipper looking driving shoes at events. Something to consider.
 

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lol....Makes me realize I could probably never be truly competitive on the track, too old to learn new tricks and too in love with my car and life. In my younger days I was very competitive on the twisting country roads, one of things I was really good at, I was driving 289 and 6 banger Fords against 396 Chevys and 383 Mopars so I had to rule the turns.
But being self taught, I learned a lot of things wrong. Heal and toe? I am backwards, heal on brake and toe on the gas. Left foot braking? Never learned. Now in my 60s, lot of instincts built in, and no longer bullet proof like I was in my teens and twenties.
Several weeks ago my wife and I were in the Slingshot accelerating onto the interstate and a big truck tire bounced out of a truck, cars on all sides. Instead of hitting the brakes I downshifted hard and darted through a closing gap, between the wheel and the truck in the next lane, all the while with my wife screaming beside me. Don't remember thinking about it, just did it. After all these years, habits, good and bad both are pretty well part of me. Hard to admit, I just wouldn't hit that nth level.
DUDE, yes I Duded you, google SCCA SOLO 1 (insert your city here) or Autocross (your city here) and go have a BLAST. It will cost you squat, you will use your driving skills to the max, have a ball, meet people who are also having a blast, learn a lot if you are willing and risk NADA, NOTHING! Trust me and Nailbender, 2nd66 and Huskinhano will back me on this! You will have the time of your life (unless you do a track day) in your Mustang if it performs anywhere near way you describe. Its so much fun to go 100 to 110%, get sideways, find the edges of what your car can do by exceeding it. So you take out a few cones in a big parking lot, there are people out there who will fix them as soon as you pass just like you will for them when its their turn. Take a Sunday and go have a blast. If you decide to, let me know and I'll PM you an Autocross Primer that will tell you how to have the most fun for the day, or you can search Autocross Primer Dobrostang and I bet it you will find it. I usually post it every spring to get new people involved but this spring - well I'm sure you understand... Click the link in my signature if you don't know what it is...
 

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I have been using my left foot for braking daily for years due to sciatica in my right leg. Wearing size 13 shoes makes tough to accomplish in the Mustang though. I see guys with skinny slipper looking driving shoes at events. Something to consider.
Wether you left foot brake or not check out trail braking!
 
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