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Discussion Starter #1
My car has a TCI C4 with a PA deep, finned pan. I have a PTC Race converter. It seems to flash to around 4k RPM. I've not yet done a brake stand. But without question it's probably putting out more heat than stock. I do have a trans temp gauge but it's not working and I have yet to figure out why. Right now I have a huge B&M plate cooler but I do not like how it blocks flow to the radiator. I figure this type of cooler is best put somewhere with its own fan but I don't want to deal with that. I'm not towing anything.

I am redoing my transmission cooler lines soon. Probably before I figure out the gauge. I am going from -8an push-lock style (which I don't like cause I think they're too close to the headers and steering linkage) to stock style stainless lines. Right now the radiator transmission cooler circuit is bypassed but I plan to utilize it and then put the transmission cooler after it. I thought that while I did that I would switch to a more traditional tube and fin cooler. Like this:


I would put it right up against the radiator like you're supposed to so the air can go through it and the radiator at the same time. If that's not big enough I can get a bigger one of the same style for not much more money.

Thoughts?
 

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I run a B & M stacked plate "super cooler". My transmission is fairly similar to yours, deep sump pan, 8 inch 4500 stall converter, manual valve body. Trans is rated for 700 hp. It is a stacked plate cooler and is said to cool a bit better than the open tube and fin design. It has kept my C4 cool over many a foot brake loaded launch and run at the track so I think it must be working.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Are you running a gauge? Data would help me make a decision.

This is the cooler I have:

Damn, I paid $87 for it, it's over $150 now.

Maybe I should try and keep it. Maybe just try to mount it right up against the radiator. The fact that you can't see through it easily makes me wonder how well air flows through. I dunno. How is yours mounted? Are you running your lines directly to the cooler or are you going through the radiator first?
 

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I was told by PTC to not run the cooler lines through the radiator so I didn't. I used strap type brackets and bolted those into the radiator support, 2 on each side. I also drilled 2 small metal screw holes in the bottom of the radiator opening in line with holes in the cooler and screwed the bottom to that so it has 4 points of mounting support. I have the lines going in and out the top. looping around and down between the valance and the lower front cross member. I used a few of those plastic coated clamps to hold the lines where I wanted them to stay. I thought they would show through the front and look ugly but they don't really show much. Since the front sheet metal is still off my car I can shoot a photo of it if you want to see how it is on there. I didn't want it right up against the radiator so I have the brackets set so it leaves a small gap behind the cooler.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Tonight a friend and I swapped in some stainless factory-style 1966 (with the fittings at the radiator side) hard lines and did -6AN lines from those to the cooler. Bipassed the radiator as before since I also have a PTC converter. Thought it would take two hours but it took six. Which is a record because it didn't take eight. What a bear those transmission fittings are with headers. But we did it and went for a test drive. No issues or leaks so far.

My friend is 23, couldn't have done it without him. I am 40 but after laying flat on concrete for the first time in awhile I think my back is 60 now.

Here's how the cooler ended up.
759935
 
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