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I want to put some spacers behind my rear wheels, when I changed from my old 15x8 rims to the Magnum 500 15x8's the wheels and tires are noticeably tucked closer in to the body and the old agressive stance has gone. I measure 1" of the stud sticking through the holes in the wheel for the wheel nuts, if I were to put a 3/8 or 1/2 aluminium spacer in am I leaving enough threads for safety or should I get some longer wheel studs?
Next question, this is a 78 Versailles disks rear end, any idea on the length of these wheel studs, the only replacement (longer studs) I have seen for sale are 3"?
And one for luck. Tapping the old studs out, if it comes to that, can that inadvertantly damage anything easily in the process, I imagine they are pretty tight in there?

69 Sportsroof, 351C, 4spd toploader, Restomod BOSS 429 clone - the one and only (?) 1969 BOSS 351

http://home.swbell.net/boss351/mustang/boss1.jpg
http://stangnet.cardomain.com/user/adamg69
 

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A basic rule of thumb is to have enough stud so that it will protrude through the thickness of a regular lug nut. In other words after everything is installed(spacer,wheel,etc.) try a regular lug nut on it.As long as the stud goes through at least the thickness of the nut it should be fine.

Every day is a holiday if you love your job.

Current projects: 65 Fastback, 68 Coupe Oval Track Racer, 64 Galaxie 500 XL, 54 F-100 Pickup
 

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Depending on type of lug nut employed, a thread engagement equal to or greater than the major diameter of the stud is considered acceptable...

Lug nuts like the shouldered ones I use on my Welds on the race car should have the stud protruding into the hex portion of the nut as mentioned above, even though there are threads in the recessed portion...In practice, I like my studs to be flush with the end of the lug nut or slightly protruding....keeps the tech guys happy...

You'll be close to needing longer studs if you use the 1/2" spacer.....it's one of those try and see deals...better safe than sorry...

Studs can be removed by bonking on the end....I usually use a nut to preserve the threads but it's not necessary...
Make sure you get new longer studs with the same knurl diameter...the 3" ones can be cut to the appropriate length with a hacksaw or abrasive disc...you may have to remove the axle to press in the new studs...
I use a press for this work but it is possible to use a bench vise and a deep socket or a hardened nut an a spacer and draw the knurl in...just take it slow....leave a little left to do and finish up by torquing the wheel in place...that'll straighten the studs out to match the wheel...

Pat
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Discussion Starter #4
Cheers. I have the acon style lug nuts by the way. Since the diameter of th stud is 1/2" I guess I need to have about a 1/2" left sticking through after the spacer is in. About the final 1/8" of the studs are a beveled edge so I think at best I shouldn't be using anything bigger than a 5/16" - 3/8" spacer, I think the two sizes I saw were 5/16" and 7/16". I didn't realize that you would have to press the new studs in, I kind of thought that the process of getting the wheel in place and tightening the lug nuts down would pull the studs in to place ok. It kind of puts me off changing out studs if it means pulling the axles so I will probably end up being conservative and get the smaller spacers.

69 Sportsroof, 351C, 4spd toploader, Restomod BOSS 429 clone - the one and only (?) 1969 BOSS 351

http://home.swbell.net/boss351/mustang/boss1.jpg
http://stangnet.cardomain.com/user/adamg69
 

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Yes, 3/8" or so sounds pretty conservative...that should be safe...

You don't have to press the studs in; I just feel it's safer and does a better job...there's a fair press on the knurls and pulling them in all the way with the threads can damage the lug nuts...
If you know your lug nuts are higher grade (most modern OEMs are), you can try pulling the studs with a lug nut and a spacer...be sure to use anti-seize or oil on the threads to lubricate them...

In any event, the only time you would have to pull the axles would be if the new, longer stud was too long to get between the back of the axle flange and the brake apparatus and backing plate....studs like I use on the race car have to be installed with the axles out of the car....

Hope that helps a bit...*G*

Pat
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1570936&a=11937754&p=42910787.jpg
 

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You know what the real problem is in your setup right? Versailles rear is narrower, but you knew that. The H&R Hubcentric spacers in 20mm would accomplish this without changing the studs. They have their own studs and you bolt the spacer to the original studs and then the wheel to the spacer.

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1967 351W Convertible
2000 Mustang GT
 
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