That's exactly how I install lugs on battery cables. I keep the heat on the lug when I stick the cable in until I can feel the cable getting hot because I want to make sure the cable wires get good and hot and the solder gets a good bond. I don't want any "cold solder" joints.I used a solder connection as well.
I put the lug in a vise, heated it with a propane torch, partially filled the cavity with resin core solder and plunged the cable into the molten solder.
Thanks for that. I was wondering how to seal the exposed end of "open" lugs, I was using adhesive heat shrink, but it never really seals the ends well. So I assume that means crimping the wire "dry", since you can't tin with Kopr-Shield or similar in the lug ?We build battery cables and such for equipment that people's lives are truly dependent on in adverse conditions to the IPC standards. The cables are always crimped and the exposed ends are lightly fluxed and then tinned with solder to prevent corrosion since that area is exposed. At no time is the solder allowed to flow fully inside the crimp by the standards nor should the stripped cable ever be tinned before crimping.
T&B manual crimper ? I'm using a Chinese hydraulic crimper, not great, but it seems to do the job. "real" crimpers just cost too much, even the large manual crimpers are $300+ new.Our crimps are done in either square or in a hex pattern with an appropriate die. The best crimper is an air actuated hydraulic device which crushes the connector and copper so there are no voids for moisture to enter. At home I use a hex pattern T&D manual electrician's crimper.