Vintage Mustang Forums banner

1 - 20 of 32 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Greetings to all-- I was OFF the site for over 3 years with my 67 in the garage needing rear 1/4s -- Well long story short- I finally got the 1/4's done locally for $2400-ooch-and I noticed that there are rather large gaps with the trunk lid- left and right.
One guy wants to Butt Weld round rod material to the lid. and then grind it down and fill the "V" with bondo.

Why can't they just tack weld a strip of metal band under the surface of the lid and then apply multiple layers of fiberglas to build it near to the "outer" surface of the lid--- THEN of course finish off with a thin smear of bondo ......... in fact Cant they GLUE the metal band in place with the new age Adhesives -------- Heck -- shouldn't I be able to do that ??

Has anyone ever tackled this Gap problem with trunk lids ? Many thanks. John from Long Island.:)
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,242 Posts
Ditto!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,443 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
I really dont want to bring it back to that shop-- I rather have it fixed else where----- I'm sure others have had a gap problem----- considering its not a door or hood---- its not an area that is going to be constantly Open and shut. So shouldn't a fiberglass repair work?? Also note-- with the gap area being narrowed-- my gaps can be made closer than factory. Right?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,630 Posts
I would go for welding / brazing rod onto the edges of the lid. I also think they could do it without bondo filling the top side - should be able to accomplish it with metal only if they are any good, I would think.

Fiberglass will be crap. It's not necessarily a vibration issue, it's the difference in heat coefficients. Sitting in the sun, putting it in a cold garage, all of it will make the cracks get worse and worse.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,991 Posts
1/8" rod, fully welded on both sides, then ground flush. no filler except the normal panel skim coat.





same procedure on a door...








 

·
Registered
Joined
·
120 Posts
WOW, nice work!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
1/8th looks fine but the shop left me with larger gaps, they did not pull the 1/4's in close enough leaving me with a lot of gap-----I would need at least 3/16's to maybe a 1/4 " added to really give me the gaps I 'd like.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
still the original lid

I shoved the lid over to oneside to measure just how much would be needed to add to the outer lid edge to leave a nice little gap. Its about 6/16 ths - 7/16 ths gap. Its really sizeable.

Why cant someone use a super adhesive and glue a metal or material "band" on the underside surface of the lid leaving me with a "ledge" on which I can build up the surface with layers of fiberglas matting and then finish off with light surface bondo. ?

:shocked:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
88 Posts
Why cant someone use a super adhesive and glue a metal or material "band" on the underside surface of the lid leaving me with a "ledge" on which I can build up the surface with layers of fiberglas matting and then finish off with light surface bondo. ?
If you don't mind cracks, go for it.

Welding some rod on each end of the panel is the way to go. It's not really that hard to do. More time consuming than anything.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
I'll try and post a pic---- not too tech savvy. anyway---- I'm stuck between the rock and the hard place with this one. maybe a rod on each end would help BUT 2/16ths on each end would ONLY give me a total of 1/4 to close the gap. I would really like to see about 6/16ths total to really get that gap closed. a 3/16ths rod on each end would do it---- BUT I don't weld----- i have to send it out. oooouch.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
374 Posts
A general opinion on the width of door gaps is around 3/16". Some shops will use the thickness of a paint stir stick which is just a little under. If you have shoved the trunk all the way to one side and you have a 3/8+" gap on the other then you are really only a little over the 3/16" when the trunk is centered. If you want a tighter gap then have someone do what Buckeyedemon did and you wil not have a problem in the future with fibergalss cracking. It sounds to me that a little filler rod welded to one edge of the trunk would give you a just enough extension to tighten up the gap. Fiberglass typicially has a different expansion rate than steel. Bonding a steel shelf with fiberglass over it could cause you some headaches in the future.
What is the width of the gap between the door and body, and is that the same as the gap between the door and front fender. I would work on trying to obtain the same gaps on the trunk as you have for all of these other areas. Just my $.02
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
I just got here today--- I have no idea of what Buckeyedemon did to fix his problem-- did it involve using fiberglass without any cracking problems----- please tell me I'm all ears.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
I found a place that sells 16 gauge flat stock thats 1/2 inch wide-called plate steel. It comes in 48 inch lengths. Trunk lid is only 30 inches- so thats no problem---- with the flat stock of 1/2 inch<8/16ths> I can grind away a little off the 8/16ths -maybe leave 6/16s of witdh on the stock and have a pro tack and fill it in. Does this sound like this could work???? Still would like to know more about Buckeyedemon and his "fix" with fiberglass though.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,376 Posts
...
Still would like to know more about Buckeyedemon and his "fix" with fiberglass though.
Then try reading reply #7 to this thread, where he shows several excellent pics.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,539 Posts
You could add material to each quarter instead of the deck lid. If for some reason at a later date the deck lid had to be replaced a replacement would fit.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,991 Posts
i've added a gap between the 1/8" rod and the edge of the door while welding to get just a little more gap.

it seems odd that the gap could be that bad. how do the quarters fit with the filler panel behind the rear window.

if you are struggling to post pics, you could email me and i'll post them.

example of adding a little space...


 
1 - 20 of 32 Posts
Top