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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys... Hoping to catch some input from those among you with a need for serious speed. I am trying to post an 11.75 time with my 65. toploader 4 speed, with 4:11's in the rear. 302 30 over, edelbrock aluminum performer RPM heads with 2.02 intakes, and the 3521 ProFlo fuel injection/electronic ignition setup. Gear drive, roller rockers. Anybody have any thoughts on the best way to move him down the track?
 

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Your toploader a close ratio or long ratio?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Not sure.... but 1st gear is loooooooooooooooooooow
 

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You are asking a pretty wide open question, with out knowing much else about the car.
I will say this, it's going to be tough to get that 302 to run in the 11's and drive it on the street too. Here's somethings to think about.
Lighten the car up as much as prossible.
Heavy flywheel
Lower gear's than 4:11
Sub frame connecter's (work that suspensions, front/rear)
Some kind of tractons bars. lockerunit (rear diff) Remember the saftey stuff.(drive shaft loop/bellhouseing/axle flange,spring support)
Just some stuff off the top of my head. It's be afew years.
 

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The easiest way I can think of is.........switch from 1/4 mile drags to 1/8 mile-that should even drop you to under 10's! Sorry I couldn't resist.Have you thought about nitrous? You didn't mention exhaust either,might be able to pick up a little there.Keep in mind 11.99 or faster will probably require a roll bar at most tracks.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yea.. I am have replaced the seats with fiberglass, got a billet steel flywheel (balanced), got the sub-frame connectors and traction bars, and a driveshaft loop and rollbar are required for going that fast. The Edelborck Pro-Flo fuel injection kit comes with a handheld computer that lets you adjust the tuning of the car. I have have it set to all-out performance, or tune it down for the street. It will rarely be driven on the street anyways. Just to Sonic, Hamburger Stand... stuff like that. Plenty of other choices in the garage for the daily driver. :O)
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Got some aluma-coat headers.. will have a 2 1/2" X pipe made, and run dual 2 1/2 out the rear. Thought about having dumps installed, so I can uncap it at the track.
 

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stroke it, get better heads, 4 link... turbochargers... sky is the limit
 

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I miss that about the pro set up! You are on the right track w/ the car.
OK, now when I said lighten the car, I mean,ie: Skin the hood (inner metal) and use hood pin's. Remove sounding material, excess putty everywhere.
Get low gear's to get that car off the line. and a slick that will grow tall on the big end. I use 6:17 on a 2800 lb car (4-speed) 317cu. (stroked Chevy) Ran 11:85 first time out. 1972 Good luck
 

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What ET and MPH are you currently running? Need to know the baseline. A very broad statement would be that the easiest way to run 11.75 in your car would be on blow.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
blew the engine 7/12/92. car has not moved under its own power in over a decade. gutted it, put on new quarters, frame rails, inner/outer wheel housings. So, I have no clue what the current setup is gonna pull. Motor is at the machine shop, tranny is on a pallet behind the car. I just wanna get some ideas as to how to proceed with the build.
 

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Drop the compression to approx. 8.5 and put a Paxton supercharger on it and experiment with different pressures. Also build the bottom end to take the extra power (stud girdle, shotpeened rods drilled out for ARP 3/8" rod bolts, main bearing studs, not bolts). I'd start at around 10 PSI. Then sutff the biggest, stickiest rear tires under the rear. Use traction bars. Is the rear posi? It will need to be. Be ready to spend some $$. These cars weren't meant for those times and need mods to do it but it can be done. If $$ is not a consideration, maybe also consider 'glass front fenders, doors, bumpers, hood and trunk lid. If you can get it to hook up you'll need a 9" rear end. The 8" will hold together for awhile, but not long. Hmmm, besides the subframe connectors, export brace, monte carlo bar and cheap front shocks (you want decent weight transfer), that's all that comes to mind. Oh, and a very sold drive shaft/u-joint assembly and loop for when it comes loose. And it will. You don't want that shaft to drop front end first and have it come visit you ::
 

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Umm I can't believe nobody has said this yet. With those mods, you should be making enough power to run 11's. Making poewr and running the 1/4 are 2 completely diffreent goals though, ask mytoys. Get yourself a set of slicks or DOT approved 'street' slicks like the ET Streets and get your 60 ft time down. With a good reaction time, a good 60' and the engine mods you listed you should run 11's with propre launch and traction. Assuming your clutch/axles/etc are up to launching at 4500RPM. if you don't believe me checkout some of the calculators on the net that base HP based on vehicle weight and ET or MPH and/or read the fordmuscle.com project 11.99 articles.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I got the modified export brace, I have a monte carlo bar. It is a 9" posi, and I plan on running the Mickey Thompson ET streets. I was planning on the big fat aluminum driveshaft, and a centerforce II dual friction clutch.
 

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Seems like you should have enough power. Make sure you stiffen the chassis up for the launches. Traction will be your biggest concern. Look into a set of Cal-Tracs, I've heard great things about them, but understand the are stiff on the street.
Being male we feel the need to "hook-up", so do all you can to accomplish that.
 

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You haven't posted the specs on your choice for a cam. The things you have mentioned so far should put you in the 11s if you have the correct cam for them.

If, as mentioned above, you get the car light (2800 lbs or so), running in the 11s won't be all that tough. As long as you're a decent driver and you've got 315-325hp at the wheels, you should meet your goal.

I'm sure Pat will be along soon and throw out his thoughts. He's a real racer so listen and learn.

Good luck. :)
 

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You have about the same engine setup that I have, except I have the twisted wedge heads. Your HP should come in near the (+ -)340 to 360 HP range. (flywheel)I know Edelbrock claims near 400, but I can't get there.
The weight of the car will come in at near 2800#.
Without serious reduction in weight, (appx 400 to 600 lbs) I don't think you can make it through the upper 12's.

On a side note, where ever you have your fuel pump, mount it lower ::I've just ordered my 4th. I think they have serious issues with them.
 

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I was going to say " tow it with a cheby", sorry, I'm feeling kinda weird today, going to go look at a fastback for my next toy :: ::

Realy, it was just a temp back slide :eek:
 
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