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Discussion Starter #1
I purchased the following steering wheel from CJ Pony Parts for my early 65 Mustang coupe (not 64.5): CJ Classics Steering Wheel Kit Shelby-Style Woodgrain 15" 9-Bolt With Horn Button 1965-1967

I know this is simple but I can't figure out the wiring for the life of me. I have the wheel installed and there is power coming out of one of the two red leads through the hub. For some background: when I touch the leads, the horn honks. When I hook the leads to a terminal on either side of the horn button and push the button before it's installed in the wheel, the horn honks. If I hook both of the leads to the positive side of the horn button, it honks continuously. This all makes sense to me and is as expected. There is a ground terminal on the horn button that hooks to the wire coming from the button as shown in one of the pictures on the site.

I can get the horn to work by connecting to either terminal like I said, however, once I click the horn button into the wheel is when the trouble starts. Depending upon how I set the ground, clicking the button into the wheel either causes a spark or it causes all the lights in the car to dim because it's clearly grounding out. I called CJ Pony and the guy I spoke to wasn't able to tell me how to hook it up. He said it sounds like I need a new horn button but I doubt that's the case. I'm sure there's someone there who could help me but they have 24 hour lead times for a call right now.

Has anyone done this before? I watched a CJ Pony install video and they hook it up without the ground wire attached but that doesn't work for me either. I get the same sparking/grounding out issue when I do that. This instruction is featured at the 4:30 mark:

Does anyone have any thoughts? Thank you in advance!
 

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Is your car an early '65 (what we call a '64.5) or is it a '65? The way you describe the horn wiring it sounds like a '65.
There are 2 spring loaded contacts that are part of the turn signal switch below the steering wheel. One of them is the "hot" wire and the other one goes to the horns. The entire purpose of the horn button is to connect these 2 contacts together sending power to the horns and causing them to blow. The horns are grounded where they bolt to the body so there is no ground that is part of the horn button.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I do have the ‘65 style with the two spring loaded contacts that touch the backside of the wheel. I had viewed the purpose of the horn button as a way to complete the circuit between the hot terminal and the one that feeds the horns. It’s essentially acting as a switch.
What I should have added in my original post is that there is a metal clip that is spring loaded that holds the horn button into the wheel. It’s the when the metal clip on the button contacts the hub of the wheel that I have problems. This is where my spark is coming from as I have 12V going through the clip.
 

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Another member was having that problem recently. The solution was something about some screws in the steering wheel being too long or having heads that were too large. More chinese crap.
 

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There is no ground at the horn button on ALTERNATOR-equipped Mustangs. The horn button is simply a SPST (single pole-single throw) momentary switch that completes a circuit, directing the power received back down the steering column and out to the horns, which each are grounded through the chassis.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
I took the horn button apart, please see the attached pics.

From what I can gather, the spring that makes the horn button pop back up is wedged under the plate that connects the 12V wire to the lead going to the horn. The tab that holds the button in place is part of this spring and is electrifying when I push the button. It needs to be separated and shouldn’t be touching the hot wire. It actually has the ground soldered to it but it’s getting powered up instead.
849D0776-EB48-471E-A836-C68127F12EE6.jpeg
7248EB98-5339-47D0-9A38-D7C365E64B8B.jpeg
713BE452-2F7B-4B74-8890-555F81E4B044.jpeg
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Update: after disassembly, I put the horn button back together with the spring repositioned so that it couldn’t touch the internal horn contacts. Once hooking it back up, everything works perfectly now. I have the two leads from the steering wheel hooked to the two posts on the back of the horn button. I clipped off the extra ground wire as it’s not used for this setup. Thanks to everyone for their help, I had assumed that the horn button was the only thing that was correct in this equation.
 
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