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I just bought a 65 FB. Nice car but not very fast. I don't need a monster, but I would like a little more. The car came from a flipper. I have no reciepts. You would think that in 45 years the motor had to have had some work done to it.

Anyway, where would you start to up the HP and torque. Heads, intake, carb, cam? All of the above? Thanks.
 

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I just bought a 65 FB. Nice car but not very fast. I don't need a monster, but I would like a little more. The car came from a flipper. I have no reciepts. You would think that in 45 years the motor had to have had some work done to it.

Anyway, where would you start to up the HP and torque. Heads, intake, carb, cam? All of the above? Thanks.

Well my 68 is the all original 289. I've replaced the water pump and the plastic toothed timing gear.

All that you mentioned plus port matching and dual exhaust using the hi po exhaust manifolds will get you around 300 hp.
 

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Tiger, contact me via PM and I will give you the list of things that will help you get there. I am shooting for 325-350 fwhp from a "stock" 289 for my K code. I also have links that may help you out too.

Chris
 

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Weasel and Slim thanks for the input. You both mentioned exhaust. My car has brand new dual exhaust all the way back. I do not think it has the HI PO exhaust manifold. What about headers? Would that net as much HP/torque as the HI PO manifold?
 

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I just put togeather a engine that makes 375hp/325ft on a budget.

Stock .030 bored 289 block with roller chained timing set turning a Melling Rv grind cam. Intake is a AirGap with a 600 Holley vac sec.
Heads are stock 302-2V with some mild port work and a pair of long tube headers. Stock pointed ign.

Has quite the seat of the pants pep in a 68 Cougar.:)
 

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Weasel and Slim thanks for the input. You both mentioned exhaust. My car has brand new dual exhaust all the way back. I do not think it has the HI PO exhaust manifold. What about headers? Would that net as much HP/torque as the HI PO manifold?
From what I understand, and I am not an expert, headers give you better power than hipo manifolds. Are you using your stock exhaust manifolds or did you get headers?
 

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Headers will usually net you alot more power over stock and HiPo manifolds, but the down side is heat generated and the usual suspects of interference and squeezing them in around the other equipment (i.e. power steering, starter, bell housing, and any aftermarket mods like my hydraulic slave cylinder & clutch assmbly).

I am using almost all factory available parts for my 289 K code and will be making in excess of 350 fwhp when it is all said and done. And to boot it will all be factory appearance from the outside (heads, distro, exhaust etc). The most important parts is to decide the budget and what you want the power for. Too often we all set out looking for modest gains and end up going with way more than we'll ever need and it kills our wallets......
 

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All the recommendations already posted are great. They also illustrate one of the really great things about a 289/302, it doesn't take a huge investment in modifications to turn these motors on!!
 

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Hopefully getting my 68 with 289 dyno'd this summer. It will have 65/66 heads with home porting. Already has Holley 600 carb, Comp Cams 268H, shorty headers, Weiand Street Warrior intake. I'll be doing a before/after dyno comparing the stock, unported 68 heads to the ported 65/66 heads.
 

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I just put togeather a engine that makes 375hp/325ft on a budget.

Stock .030 bored 289 block with roller chained timing set turning a Melling Rv grind cam. Intake is a AirGap with a 600 Holley vac sec.
Heads are stock 302-2V with some mild port work and a pair of long tube headers. Stock pointed ign.

Has quite the seat of the pants pep in a 68 Cougar.:)
I'd like to see the dyno sheet on that. No way a 289 with a melling RV grind is making 375 HP.
 

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I'd like to see it too. Maybe 275hp/325tq?
 

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From all my 289 motors that I have owned and built, what has really made them come alive has been heads and cam. That motor just needs to breath!

If you would spring for a nice set of aluminium heads, matching grind cam, intake and a 600 cfm max 4bbl carb (I like edelbrock matching components), that motor will sing.
 

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I'd like to see it too. Maybe 275hp/325tq?
That would be far more likely. For 300, a good set of heads, as in World Products or Edelbrocks, or some very well ported stockers, fairly radical cam, headers, decent intake, and a lot more compression than comes on the average 289 2V.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
From what I understand, and I am not an expert, headers give you better power than hipo manifolds. Are you using your stock exhaust manifolds or did you get headers?

No headers yet. Stock exhaust manifold. (i think)

From all my 289 motors that I have owned and built, what has really made them come alive has been heads and cam. That motor just needs to breath!

If you would spring for a nice set of aluminium heads, matching grind cam, intake and a 600 cfm max 4bbl carb (I like edelbrock matching components), that motor will sing.
I like the idea of matching components. This was kind of what I was thinking from the start.
 

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I just bought a 65 FB. Nice car but not very fast. I don't need a monster, but I would like a little more. The car came from a flipper. I have no reciepts. You would think that in 45 years the motor had to have had some work done to it.

Anyway, where would you start to up the HP and torque. Heads, intake, carb, cam? All of the above? Thanks.
I usually advise a simple recipe for increased power, very effective, and easy on the wallet. Recently, a fellow near here not only took my advice to the letter, he had the engine dyno'ed when it was done.

67 289 2V. Upgrades:

• C9OZ-6250-C hydraulic "HiPo" camshaft.
• Screw-in studs
• Port-matched heads link: 289/302 Cylinder Head Port Matching
• Edelbrock Performer RPM intake manifold (or Cobra)
• Edelbrock 600 cfm carb (a Summit 600 would cost about $40 less)
• Stock distributor recurved to BOSS 302 spec.
• 289HP air cleaner

Notice the lack of exotic ignition and other groovy stuff you see at cruise night. It's not cost effective. He saved money by port-matching the heads himself (I did one, he did the other 7)

Results? A smooth-as-stock engine that gets 323 hp @ 5300 rpm.

 

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All good advice, but you don't need different heads for 300 HP. 1 HP per ci or a bit more is not a stretch for stock '65 heads.

Your fortunate to have pre-thermactor hump heads (no hump in the exhaust port). Get a 5 angle valve job and screw in rocker studs and leave 'em at that. Then a Weiand Stealth or comparable intake, a 270s Comp Cam or comparable hydraulic, roller tip rockers, 600 cfm carb and headers or tri-ys with good exhaust system will get you to your goal. Pertronix ignition and high energy coil would be a plus.

Be sure your short block is in good shape.
 

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I'm almost afraid to ask but.....why are screw in studs so important?
 

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That would be far more likely. For 300, a good set of heads, as in World Products or Edelbrocks, or some very well ported stockers, fairly radical cam, headers, decent intake, and a lot more compression than comes on the average 289 2V.
:shrug: Why do you have alum heads and all the magazine bling to make HP?
Some of us old timers can make it without spending a ton of cash using common sense.
A good porting/valve job, a little cutting on the heads to raise the compression.
Degreeing the cam and a good tune on the ign system and it is possiable to make usable HP.
 
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