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Discussion Starter #1
Has anyone's hydraulic clutch failed them before? Also, what fluid are you using (I'm using DOT 3 brake fluid, which I think is proper)?

Apparently the seal on the CNC 305-B slave cylinder decided to bust in the middle of L.A. traffic yesterday, prompting a call to AAA. The slave had developed a very small leak in the last two weeks and yesterday the whole thing just failed completely. I get no pedal pressure at all. I just ordered another slave cylinder, as well as a rebuild kit (which just includes the rubber seals), and will be replacing/rebuilding it next week.

Here's the thread on my system: http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/showtopic.php?tid/1509673/post/2064447/hl//fromsearch/1/

I've now gone through EVERY type of clutch actuation system possible for the '67:
- OEM linkage interferes with R&P and then bent out of shape after modifying it to fit in the R&P;
- Clutch cable conversion burnt through two cables; and
- Now this happens with the hyd clutch!

I am so fed up with clutch issues that I considered starting to look for an auto trans (but my wife says it wouldn't be as fun, so the T5 stays)!

Anyone have any issues with their hydraulic clutch conversion?
 

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I've had a McLeod hydraulic throw out bearing on a T5 for 6 years. I also use Dot 3 fluid. This week is the first time I've had to bleed it, ever. There wasn't any air in the system, I think the fluid was just old. Just to make sure though, I did disassemble the MC and clean it out.
I've also gone through cable and mechanical clutch setups. The hydraulic is my favorite.
 

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Rorin67,
That sucks! You've only had that setup for about 3 months now. I don't know how much clutch-and-go traffic you sit in, but it seemed to wear out pretty quickly. Do you know the main reason for the failure?

M/C
 

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From my limited experience, these hydraulic clutches seem like they are up against a pretty stout clutch (At least in my case) and am hesitant on their long term durability. Guess I'll see eventually..

latamud: Old fluid shouldn't cause that, there must be a tiny tiny tiny leak somewhere. Perhaps past an o-ring or some such.. I don't necessarily mean leaking fluid leak, but it should never need to be rebled.
 

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Sorry to hear about your troubles. Seeing as you already have a hydraulic clutch system in your car, why not try this,

http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/mcl-1400-30_w.jpg

It's a hydraulic throwout bearing. This eliminates the fork and slave cylinder on the outside of the bellhousing. Just one line going into the bellhousing and the bleeder line hanging out.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Mustang Chuck said:
Rorin67,
That sucks! You've only had that setup for about 3 months now. I don't know how much clutch-and-go traffic you sit in, but it seemed to wear out pretty quickly. Do you know the main reason for the failure?

M/C
Thanks guys. Yeah it does suck. And I face as much clutch-and-go traffic as you can imagine in a daily driver in Los Angeles city traffic.

I'll be checking it out this weekend to determine the point of failure in the slave cylinder, so I'll report back. It is mated to a Centerforce Dual-Friction clutch, so it is pretty stout as JohnyK suggests. And I wanted to avoid the hyd throw-out bearing route b/c (1) I've heard terrible bleeding issues about them, and (2) I didn't want to remove the tranny in my limited, no-lift garage in order to do this. The external slave was an easy mod, but if it keeps failing, then I may have to consider the hyd TO bearing.

I'll keep you guys posted. Seems I'm the only lucky one so far to have this happen?
 

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Does hyd. throwout bearing need any mods to the tranny snout? Or do you just slide it on and bleed it?
 

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Come on Rorin, get this figured out before I do the T5/hydraulic clutch swap!

The hydraulic TO bearing looks so nice, except the price tag...
 

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Discussion Starter #10
musgofasta said:
Come on Rorin, get this figured out before I do the T5/hydraulic clutch swap!
I'M TRYIN', I'M TRYIN'!!! :)

And I agree with JohnnyK re the inaccessable slave - for the VERY reason that I just experienced...
 

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out of curiosity how much was the mcleod unit? since I would have to buy both a slave cylinder and clutch fork(since I dont have one yet), as well as a throwout bearing, I am thinking the all-in-one unit might actually be cheaper(and will save me having to fab a bracket since I dont know of anyone selling them for the T45)
 

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Maxum96 said:
Sorry to hear about your troubles. Seeing as you already have a hydraulic clutch system in your car, why not try this,

http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/mcl-1400-30_w.jpg

It's a hydraulic throwout bearing. This eliminates the fork and slave cylinder on the outside of the bellhousing. Just one line going into the bellhousing and the bleeder line hanging out.

I using this on my 65. So far so good.
 

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JohnnyK said:
latamud: Old fluid shouldn't cause that, there must be a tiny tiny tiny leak somewhere. Perhaps past an o-ring or some such.. I don't necessarily mean leaking fluid leak, but it should never need to be rebled.
I noticed a tiny drop of brake fluid in the driveway last night centered under the car. I believe you are correct and confirmed my worries. I suppose I'm going to have to rebuild the slave.

wicked93gs said:
out of curiosity how much was the mcleod unit? since I would have to buy both a slave cylinder and clutch fork(since I dont have one yet), as well as a throwout bearing, I am thinking the all-in-one unit might actually be cheaper(and will save me having to fab a bracket since I dont know of anyone selling them for the T45)
I think I paid around $400 for mine direct from McLeod. My bellhousing didn't have any provisions for a clutch fork so this was my easy fix. MC can be had for around $50.
 

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Ever consider Tilton? It seems as though there are numerous complaints with virtually every other hydraulic setup, so I decided to give them a try. Unfortunately my car isn't running yet, but I'll be sure to give some reviews once I'm up and running. It is a hydraulic bearing that fits inside the bellhousing, but it seems various race teams run it with success in early-model Mustangs.
 

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I noticed that when I purchased the wilwood slave cylinder, there was a link right next to it for a rebuild kit.

I think the slaves work pretty hard, considering a heavy clutch, pulling or pushing on slight angles and then the road debris, heat from headers etc.

It might be a good idea just to do pre-emptive maintenance on these things.

I know I'll be watching mine closely, now.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Sure enough - when I removed the CNC slave and took the dust boot off, there was small 1/4" piece of broken-off rubber seal sitting in front of the cylinder (instead of sealing off the side of the cylinder). So yeah, it blew the seal after about 5,000 miles of daily driving. :thumbsdown:

My new one should arrive in the next couple of days. I'm going to be optimistic that this new one will be just fine for the long haul. :pirate:
 

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Discussion Starter #19
They bounced back - thankfully... At least there was some sort of warning before the blow-out: a slow leak over two weeks. Before the leak, the system worked flawlessly. I'll be paying much closer attention to this new one once I get it in.
 

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I feel your disappointment...after long times of fusteration with that cable driven setup, I expected this to be your relief long term. Hopefully it was just a fluke..
 
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