Vintage Mustang Forums banner

1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
92 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
1967 Mustang Coupe, 302, Tremec 3550, Lakewood blowshield, long tube headers.

Currently trying to determine the best route to make this all work. I have a Lakewood extended clutch fork. But, based on my searching around a cable setup will be questionable with the longtubes and a hydraulic slave cylinder won't clear the girth of the blowshiled. So, while looking at the Modern Driveline website, I stumbled across this Tilton throwout bearing which could solve any issues I may have. Along with eliminating the clutch fork altogether.


Do any of you have experience with this piece? If so, how did it work out for you?

Thanks!!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
1967 Mustang Coupe, 302, Tremec 3550, Lakewood blowshield, long tube headers.

Currently trying to determine the best route to make this all work. I have a Lakewood extended clutch fork. But, based on my searching around a cable setup will be questionable with the longtubes and a hydraulic slave cylinder won't clear the girth of the blowshiled. So, while looking at the Modern Driveline website, I stumbled across this Tilton throwout bearing which could solve any issues I may have. Along with eliminating the clutch fork altogether.


Do any of you have experience with this piece? If so, how did it work out for you?

Thanks!!!
I have a toploader in my car and a dual disc McLeod clutch. I used McLeod's hydraulic throw out bearing, and I don't have any problems with it all. It works perfectly.
When I built my car, I built the pedal linkage and slave mount, but McLeod was working on a kit. It's probably done now.
Tim
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
92 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Excellent. Thanks.

My plan is to use a Centerforce dual friction disc on the Motorsport pressure plate that I already have. This throwout bearing will solve any linkage issues and, most likely, any clearence issues I may run into.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
92 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Just had a chat with the folks at Modern Driveline and it looks like this will all work out fine. He confirmed a couple of things for me and also told me about some measurements I need to take to make sure I have what I already know I do.

They were incredibly helpful and I will have no problem giving them my cash when the time comes.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
92 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
You don't want to use a centerforce DF clutch with an internal hydraulic TO. There is a good chance the counterweights can get caught up in the internal slave. I had that issue and had to change the clutch. It's a re and re of the trans if that happens.

I'll be using a Motorsport pressure plate that I already have. Just going with a 26 spline dual friction disc.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,237 Posts
The only bad thing about a hydraulic TOB is that it can be over extended and push the piston out of the housing and oil down the clutch. MDL has compensated for this by sizing the clutch master cylinder to not over extend the HTOB. It's still a good idea to install a clutch pedal stop to limit the throw of the clutch pedal and prevent any chance of over extending.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
92 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
The only bad thing about a hydraulic TOB is that it can be over extended and push the piston out of the housing and oil down the clutch. MDL has compensated for this by sizing the clutch master cylinder to not over extend the HTOB. It's still a good idea to install a clutch pedal stop to limit the throw of the clutch pedal and prevent any chance of over extending.

Very good to know. Thanks for the tip!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
962 Posts
I’ve got the MDL Hydraulic clutch set up but I’m not using the hydraulic throw out bearing instead I’m using the slave cylinder which works great with my Cleveland and long tube headers in my 70. I may even have some laying around if you’re interested in purchasing
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
92 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
I’ve got the MDL Hydraulic clutch set up but I’m not using the hydraulic throw out bearing instead I’m using the slave cylinder which works great with my Cleveland and long tube headers in my 70. I may even have some laying around if you’re interested in purchasing

What do you have, throwout bearings?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
44 Posts
The only bad thing about a hydraulic TOB is that it can be over extended and push the piston out of the housing and oil down the clutch. MDL has compensated for this by sizing the clutch master cylinder to not over extend the HTOB. It's still a good idea to install a clutch pedal stop to limit the throw of the clutch pedal and prevent any chance of over extending.
The other provision that came with my hydraulic throw out bearing are shims/spacers that go between the TOB and the transmission. With the correct amount of these spacers in place, it prevents the TOB from extending too far.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,333 Posts
I would avoid a hydraulic TOB unless you truly do have no other options(there are pull-style as well as push-style slave cylinders...its very unusual than neither would fit). I have used hydraulic TOBs before and never had an issue...but be aware that those measurements you need to figure out the correct shim size are critical....when using a Vette hydraulic TOB in my MA5 behind a Dodge 2.4L it took me about 5 times pulling the engine and trans before I finally got the clutch actuating(of course, that was starting from scratch with a setup that converted a FWD engine to RWD....existing applications will be easier). The Tilton kit you linked looks like it already has a remote bleeder and SS lines, so that takes away a lot of the headache.

One critical tip I have for you: Bleed the system while engine and trans are out of the car(you can do this by disconnecting the master cylinder from the firewall while the line still connects it to the hydraulic TOB and simply use a screwdriver or some other type of rod in place of the pushrod to bleed it(make sure to check MC throw and dont over-extended while bleeding it this way....using a long bolt as a faux pushrod with a nut to act as a stop at the desired throw will accomplish this)....this type of psuedo bench bleeding will make your install MUCH simpler and allow you to work all the air out of the system without having to take the drivetrain out again if there are problems.

Once you get it actuating correctly I doubt you will ever have another problem for it...I drove that Frankenstein car of mine for 5 years until I sold it without ever having a hydraulic TOB issue.
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top