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I'm planning to dip bare cylinder heads in this chemical to remove rust. I know this is a very caustic and dangerous chemical and proper caution should be exercised. I also read about hydrogen embrittlement and how it will weaken hardened steel like bolts and springs.

To those of you who had success using this chemical, what proportion or ratio did you use? How long shall I dip my heads? I'm concerned for the rocker arm studs which are still in place. How did you neutralize the acid to keep the rust from coming back?

Thanks.
 

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I would not use straight HCL (aq) on your heads....I would actually take them in and have them hot tank and bead blast them....

it doesn't cost much and the results are amazing.

HCL (aq) is not caustic....but strongly acidic....and to neutralize it requires a good hand soap or soda....

use PH test strips to verify.
 
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Having it hot tanked is the easiest or best way. But I'm really bent on trying it on my own :: Yup, I read that baking soda will neutralize the acid. Thanks.
 

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I don't think you can buy strait HCA. They sell pool cleaner that is muric acid witch is a mix of HCA and water(some of the cheaper stuff
 
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I don't think you can buy strait HCA. They sell pool cleaner that is muric acid witch is a mix of HCA and water(some of the cheaper stuff
I have a gallon of muriatic acid, it says industrial strength. Don't know exact percentage of HCl. I know that commercial grade is 20-30%.

Best thing to do, I think, is to test different ratios and length of dip on a couple of junk or discarded parts.
 

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If you are set on the DIY routine, use your own hot tank. You can get a horse trough, place on sawhorses, use a turkey fryer as the heat source, and use a lye-based dip. Yes, good old drano will do just fine. Learned this from an old restorer. He kept one behind his garage, and used it often. I don't recall him ever changing the fluid, just adding more water or Drano.
 

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I have made a solution of HCl acid in the lab before. HCl came in pellets and were kind of difficult to weigh due to there rapid hydration. I wouldn't expect the 'consumer' grade of HCl to be over 10%. Acetic acid, vinegar a mild organic acid is at 5%. Fire ant bites contain the strongest organic acid. I have used 30% HCl before. It's kind of nasty stuff. Baking soda will neutralize the acid. The acid is pretty well neutralized when additional soda will not release bubbles. I have heard that soda pop will neutralize the acid in car batterys. So far it seems to work. Our car batterys have been corrosion free. :) And not sticky.
 
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If you are set on the DIY routine, use your own hot tank. You can get a horse trough, place on sawhorses, use a turkey fryer as the heat source, and use a lye-based dip. Yes, good old drano will do just fine. Learned this from an old restorer. He kept one behind his garage, and used it often. I don't recall him ever changing the fluid, just adding more water or Drano.
Pardon my ignorance, but what is Drano?
Lye-based dip will mean caustic soda(sodium hyroxide)?
I tried the muriatic that I have in a couple of small parts. It did a nice job in removing rust from them. Didn't even have to raise temp. Dipped them for approx 30 mins. Will experiment with different strengths later. Thanks.
 
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Baking soda will neutralize the acid. The acid is pretty well neutralized when additional soda will not release bubbles.
Can you tell me the exact method on mixing/proportioning baking soda with water so I can use it as a bath immediately after the acid dip. Thanks.
 

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Read the Material Safety Data Sheet, MSDS, on the chemicals you are using. Web site, osha, for them. We use both diluted and full strengh HCL, HF, Sulphuric, Nitric, etc. and these are NASTY genies out of the bottle. We do not mess around, wear full PPE (Personnal Protective Equipment) and get extensive training. Reconsider the advice of the others, pay to have it done right in a hot tank. Baking soda will neutralize part of the acid, but will only neutralize on the surface, not once it penetrates below skin level or into bone mass.
 

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Geez Bob... I got the willies after reading your last line about "below skin level or into bone mass". :: Ouch, chemical burns are not fun. Seriously, this is not the average DIY job. What is to become on this "bath" once your finished. Please take all precautions and its always good to have an extra hand around. That previous description of the garage/drano set up..... oooooo I hope he also had a lockable lid.
 

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Sorry for the delayed reply. I imagine you would have liked the info before the weekend. Anyway, the exact amount of baking soda needed to neutralize your HCl solution could be calculated if you knew the strength of the solution and its volume. However, the local hardware store should have muratic acid somewhere from 20% to 30%. Do plan on needing a lot of baking soda. Start out with a solution of baking soda wich should have a pH around 8 on the pH scale and keep adding baking soda to keep the pH around 8 to completely neutralize the acid. The gas created from the HCl and baking soda reaction is CO2. Becarefull with the HCl it can quickly burn you. Good luck.
 
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Sorry for the delayed reply. I imagine you would have liked the info before the weekend. Anyway, the exact amount of baking soda needed to neutralize your HCl solution could be calculated if you knew the strength of the solution and its volume. However, the local hardware store should have muratic acid somewhere from 20% to 30%. Do plan on needing a lot of baking soda. Start out with a solution of baking soda wich should have a pH around 8 on the pH scale and keep adding baking soda to keep the pH around 8 to completely neutralize the acid. The gas created from the HCl and baking soda reaction is CO2. Becarefull with the HCl it can quickly burn you. Good luck.
No problem , not much in a hurry. Thanks a lot!!!
 
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