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Discussion Starter #1
Just finished installing the new cooling system. Went for broke:

1. New Silla 2 row aluminum radiator with 1" tubes.

2. Mounted my Spal fan back on with a seal that Spal makes that seals the fan shroud to the radiator.

3. Relocated my tranny cooler to the radiator support using a stainless steel bracket screwed to the support. There is about 2" between the back of the tranny cooler and the front of the radiator. The thought here was to improve airflow to the radiator.

4. Re-routed the tranny cooler lines so that the fluid goes from tranny to cooler, cooler to radiator tank, and then radiator tank back to transmission. The thought here is that the tranny cooler cools the fluid down to a point below the lower tank temp instead of the hotter fluid heating the already cooled coolant.

5. Added water wetter and fresh coolant. Completely drained the block and heads to make sure I got a complete fresh charge.

6. Added a 13# cap with a thermometer built in.

Started the car, let it warm up and then chocked the wheels, put the parking brake on and put it in gear. After 30 minutes of idling in gear I never got above 175. With the hood closed. Granted, it's only about 80 out today but I was never able to idle that long without the temperature consistently climbing until it overheated.

An interesting side note: Before, when my fan kicked on my voltage would drop from 14 down to 13 volts. Now the gauge doesn't even move. I think this is because the fan used to draw air in around the shroud instead of through the radiator. This would allow the fan to run faster which in turn drew more current. Now that it is sealed to the radiator it is running where it should be and thus drawing less current. Also I'm guessing the new radiator has more fins to draww the air through. That's my guess anyway because I didn't change anything electrically.

I am one fired up guy! In one week I eliminated my driveline vibration and my cooling problems!

:pirate: :pirate: :pirate:

http://mysite.verizon.net/vze22kvh/Frankies_65/Pics/IMG_1390a.JPG
http://mysite.verizon.net/vze22kvh/Frankies_65/Pics/IMG_1392a.JPG
http://mysite.verizon.net/vze22kvh/Frankies_65/Pics/IMG_1393a.JPG
http://mysite.verizon.net/vze22kvh/Frankies_65/Pics/IMG_1394a.JPG
http://mysite.verizon.net/vze22kvh/Frankies_65/Pics/IMG_1395a.JPG
http://mysite.verizon.net/vze22kvh/Frankies_65/Pics/IMG_1396a.JPG


I still don't see this lightbox thingy so I'm imbedding pictures into links...
 

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Re: I am SOOOOOO Cool!

Started the car, let it warm up and then chocked the wheels, put the parking brake on and put it in gear. After 30 minutes of idling in gear I never got above 175. With the hood closed. Granted, it's only about 80 out today but I was never able to idle that long without the temperature consistently climbing until it overheated.
Frank, what temp were you running before? and is this the radiator you have now?



Silla Radiator - Aluminum Core, Aluminum Endtanks
For 1965 Ford Mustang Base 8 Cyl 4.7L

Availability: In Stock

PART#: SILLA0259AA MFR#: 0259AA

List Price: $272.71

Our Price: $231.11

You Save: $41.6 (15)%

Quantity:

SILLA OE REPLACEMENT RADIATOR, ALL ALUMINUM, 2-ROW -- 16.37 in. x 17.25 in. x 1.25 in. core size, 3-1/8 in. x 17-1/2 in. top header, 1-5/8 in. x 16-3/4 in. bottom header, 1.5 in. inlet size, 1.75 in. outlet size; Engineered and manufactured under the highest quality standards; Effectively boosts engine functions; Distinguished for outstanding, reliable and efficient performance; With Silla's limited lifetime warranty.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Re: I am SOOOOOO Cool!

Jim,

Before, as long as I could keep moving I ran at 180-195 but as soon as I got stuck in traffic I would just start creeping up with no end. Usually I would just pull over and stop when I hit 220.

Now I can apparently idle forever in gear and run 175 -180 with no problem.

Yes - that is the radiator I bought. It is actually really nice considering the price relative to Griffin. The Griffin radioator does have 1.25" tubes compared to the 1" tubes on the Silla but for me it worked out great.

The final test will be tomorrow. I want to take it on the open highway and see if the fan turns off at freeway speeds. I have the thermostat installed in my intake so it apparently never reached the lower setpoint to turn the fan off.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Shaun said:
Awesome! I bet your old rad was clogged.

So can I now stop thinking about you in bed?

The old radiator was only two years old but was a three row copper oem style replacement. It wasn't clogged that I could tell. I think I just needed more surface area.

Plus due to numerous header flange leaks which I may take care of today my underhood temps have been HOT!

And hey - feel free to think of me in in bed as long as your wife doesn't mind!

By the way Shaun - what do you think about the new PWM controllers? I think my problems in the past have been that I mounted it right next to the radiator (where the voltage regulator used to be) because I didn't have to drill another hole and they just burnt up.

I haven't given up yet on variable fan speed. These things are noisy!
 

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Re: I am SOOOOOO Cool!

jims6t6 said:
Started the car, let it warm up and then chocked the wheels, put the parking brake on and put it in gear. After 30 minutes of idling in gear I never got above 175. With the hood closed. Granted, it's only about 80 out today but I was never able to idle that long without the temperature consistently climbing until it overheated.
Frank, what temp were you running before? and is this the radiator you have now?



Silla Radiator - Aluminum Core, Aluminum Endtanks
For 1965 Ford Mustang Base 8 Cyl 4.7L

Availability: In Stock

PART#: SILLA0259AA MFR#: 0259AA

List Price: $272.71

Our Price: $231.11

You Save: $41.6 (15)%

Quantity:

SILLA OE REPLACEMENT RADIATOR, ALL ALUMINUM, 2-ROW -- 16.37 in. x 17.25 in. x 1.25 in. core size, 3-1/8 in. x 17-1/2 in. top header, 1-5/8 in. x 16-3/4 in. bottom header, 1.5 in. inlet size, 1.75 in. outlet size; Engineered and manufactured under the highest quality standards; Effectively boosts engine functions; Distinguished for outstanding, reliable and efficient performance; With Silla's limited lifetime warranty.
who is the vendor ?

Z. Ray
 

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Nice un it Frank, thanks for the info.
 

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Frank65 said:
Shaun said:
Awesome! I bet your old rad was clogged.

So can I now stop thinking about you in bed?

The old radiator was only two years old but was a three row copper oem style replacement. It wasn't clogged that I could tell. I think I just needed more surface area.

Plus due to numerous header flange leaks which I may take care of today my underhood temps have been HOT!

And hey - feel free to think of me in in bed as long as your wife doesn't mind!

By the way Shaun - what do you think about the new PWM controllers? I think my problems in the past have been that I mounted it right next to the radiator (where the voltage regulator used to be) because I didn't have to drill another hole and they just burnt up.

I haven't given up yet on variable fan speed. These things are noisy!
I'm still using the gen 2 version. Hasn't died yet. Its mounted under the battery tray. I doubt the regulator location gets any hotter than where mine is mounted.

I haven't had any issues with the Gen 3 controllers I've sold...

If you can hear the fan then your mufflers are too quite! I can never, never hear mine from inside the car.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Shaun said:
Frank65 said:
Shaun said:
Awesome! I bet your old rad was clogged.

So can I now stop thinking about you in bed?

The old radiator was only two years old but was a three row copper oem style replacement. It wasn't clogged that I could tell. I think I just needed more surface area.

Plus due to numerous header flange leaks which I may take care of today my underhood temps have been HOT!

And hey - feel free to think of me in in bed as long as your wife doesn't mind!

By the way Shaun - what do you think about the new PWM controllers? I think my problems in the past have been that I mounted it right next to the radiator (where the voltage regulator used to be) because I didn't have to drill another hole and they just burnt up.

I haven't given up yet on variable fan speed. These things are noisy!
I'm still using the gen 2 version. Hasn't died yet. Its mounted under the battery tray. I doubt the regulator location gets any hotter than where mine is mounted.

I haven't had any issues with the Gen 3 controllers I've sold...

If you can hear the fan then your mufflers are too quite! I can never, never hear mine from inside the car.
I don't hear the fan from inside the car. But boy, when I get out of the car that sucker is loud!

Both of the PWM's that I lost were Gen 1. I'm going to keep an eye on things for the rest of the sumer and may change back to the PWM over the winter.

But first, I'm going to fix that dang header leak! That will probably drop the underhood temperatures significantly.
 

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Re: I am So Cool! - Now with Pics

Frank65 said:
An interesting side note: Before, when my fan kicked on my voltage would drop from 14 down to 13 volts. Now the gauge doesn't even move. I think this is because the fan used to draw air in around the shroud instead of through the radiator. This would allow the fan to run faster which in turn drew more current. Now that it is sealed to the radiator it is running where it should be and thus drawing less current. Also I'm guessing the new radiator has more fins to draw the air through. That's my guess anyway because I didn't change anything electrically.
Actually, if I recall my electrical theory, if the fan is working harder to draw air through the radiator, rather then spinning easier drawing air around the shroud, then it would draw MORE amps, not less.In other words, more work being done, more amps drawn. The speed of the fan has no bearing on amps drawn, all other factors being equal.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Re: I am So Cool! - Now with Pics

erbssr said:
Frank65 said:
An interesting side note: Before, when my fan kicked on my voltage would drop from 14 down to 13 volts. Now the gauge doesn't even move. I think this is because the fan used to draw air in around the shroud instead of through the radiator. This would allow the fan to run faster which in turn drew more current. Now that it is sealed to the radiator it is running where it should be and thus drawing less current. Also I'm guessing the new radiator has more fins to draw the air through. That's my guess anyway because I didn't change anything electrically.
Actually, if I recall my electrical theory, if the fan is working harder to draw air through the radiator, rather then spinning easier drawing air around the shroud, then it would draw MORE amps, not less.In other words, more work being done, more amps drawn. The speed of the fan has no bearing on amps drawn, all other factors being equal.
The faster a centrifugal device spins, the more amps it draws.

I'm assuming the fan was able to spin faster because it was doing less work. Who the heck knows - I'm a mechanical engineer! :thumbsup:
 

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Yep, I'm an ME too. But it still seems like the harder the fan has to pull, the more amps it will draw.Just like a pump that is overloaded will draw more amps.
Oh well................like they said in school, you never use that theory stuff in the real world.
 
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