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Discussion Starter #1
I found out the last few days its really tuff to find a shop that will agree to work on a classic.
When I was working on my brakes changing to new lines and wheel cylinders I decided to upgrade to the dual
master cylinder and My troubles started. My master cylinder that I was sent did not work with the dual MC kit they sent.
The next MC I was sent is works with the lines from the kit buts a MC for a powerbrake model. It mounted up but But I have yet
to get acceptable brakes.
So calls to 3 shops with NOOOO way number 4 said that would take her. And a few calls to tow companies next week
I might be closer to being in the road...
 

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Do you have any classic Mustang clubs in your area? You might have luck attending a meeting and making acquaintances with someone that could help or point you to a shop.
 

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It's not rocket science, its 40 year old brake technology. Hope you find and old guy and not a rice rocket kid to solve your problems. Good luck. Its issues like this that have the average hobbyist abandoning the hobby due to astronomical shop pricing.
 
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Dimples
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Can you provide some more detail on what wasn't working? What kit, what MC's did you try, etc.
 

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We’re fortunate we’ve a few repair shops that do classics and several restoration/custom shops. It’s not much different as an hourly rate than a dealer or high end independent. It’s the time plus material once they dig into the job that gets you rather than the book rate.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Here is where I stand now.
I changed all my brake lines and wheel cylinders so I decided to order the dual MC line kit from johns and get a MC locally.
Well the fitting from the line that Johns sold would not fit the 65 non power MC. SOOOOOOO
I call and said sent the MC that fits the Fitting you sale. The MC they sent is one that is used with a power brakes. But hooks up to the brake lines perfect.
So every thing is in place Master cylinder bench bleed and all cylinders bleed but I cant get a firm Brake pedal.
I think a new set of eyes is needed and the 1 thing that needs to work are the brakes. I backed up a bunch of times to see if the self adjuster would make things better.
 

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I'm not sure there's a difference between a pb mc and a non pb mc. Maybe bore size? Have you adjusted the shoes correctly?
 

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As for your lines not fitting the first master Cylinder, most auto parts stores have a Dorman cabinet where you will find adapters that will adapt most any line configuration to the master.
 
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I have only worked on 67's with Disk/Drum power brakes, but I recall reading somewhere that you might need to use the original pushrod from the OLD M/C in the new M/C. Did you verify the push rod length between the old and new?
 

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I have only worked on 67's with Disk/Drum power brakes, but I recall reading somewhere that you might need to use the original pushrod from the OLD M/C in the new M/C. Did you verify the push rod length between the old and new?
Knapper is right on that one. I’ve also read multiple times that you need to keep the original pushrod for that conversion.
Hope the shop treat the car well. There are some great mechanics around that are still nice guys who love to do the work.
 

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I cant even get an alignment done. They wont touch it.
the answer i get is if i touch it I own it

my body shop can do it but hes back up 4 months. got on the list at least,
then while its in there might as well keep him busy with a few other things like that pesky messy steering box and that new NOS tank i been stepping over the last 25 yrs
 

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I found out the last few days its really tuff to find a shop that will agree to work on a classic.
When I was working on my brakes changing to new lines and wheel cylinders I decided to upgrade to the dual
master cylinder and My troubles started. My master cylinder that I was sent did not work with the dual MC kit they sent.
The next MC I was sent is works with the lines from the kit buts a MC for a powerbrake model. It mounted up but But I have yet
to get acceptable brakes.
So calls to 3 shops with NOOOO way number 4 said that would take her. And a few calls to tow companies next week
I might be closer to being in the road...
you might take a step back and realize that nothing ever fits when you are working with non stock combinations. you can get all the kits you want to make things work, but in the end you are almost always going to have to tweak things here and there to get everything to fit and work together. the power brake master cylinder should work just fine with out the booster, s long as the cup n the piston where teh push rod goes is deep enough for the stock push rod to ride in the cup without falling out. some power brake masters have barely a dimple in them. so check that first.

after that its a matter of getting the proper fitting adapters, you can get them from just about any hardware store that has a good supply of brass fittings, as well as line couplers, again they should be easily available, just remember to get the right ones, NO COMPRESSION FITTINGS, they ust work with the standard SAE type flares for proper sealing. and you can find lengths of brake line at your local parts store with fittings already installed you just have to bend them up to fit as you need them to.

when i did this conversion on my 64 falcon, i used a 67drum/drum master cylinder, some pre fabbed brake line, a few brass fittings and "T"s, and the stock push rod from the falcon. just take you time and plan each step out as you go along, and try to visualize the end product. after that its just making it work and bleeding the system fully.
 

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^ What he said.
Your issue is that you don't know all the tips & tricks. And there's no guarantee a (generic) modern shop will be any better.
The trick is to find a shop that has no learning curve. The learning curve is something you definitely don't want to pay for.

As I understand it, you want to run manual brakes. Disc or drum? There are certain master cylinders folks on here can direct you
to, the correct fittings to use and the correct techniques to incorporate.
It really doesn't require raising Einstein from the dead to get this done.

ex-Global West GM
1991-1995
 

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Dimples
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you might take a step back and realize that nothing ever fits when you are working with non stock combinations. you can get all the kits you want to make things work, but in the end you are almost always going to have to tweak things here and there to get everything to fit and work together. the power brake master cylinder should work just fine with out the booster, s long as the cup n the piston where teh push rod goes is deep enough for the stock push rod to ride in the cup without falling out. some power brake masters have barely a dimple in them. so check that first.

after that its a matter of getting the proper fitting adapters, you can get them from just about any hardware store that has a good supply of brass fittings, as well as line couplers, again they should be easily available, just remember to get the right ones, NO COMPRESSION FITTINGS, they ust work with the standard SAE type flares for proper sealing. and you can find lengths of brake line at your local parts store with fittings already installed you just have to bend them up to fit as you need them to.
I came here to say this, rbohm said it better.
 
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