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They are very inexpensive. I've purchased two from Harbor Freight for about $12-15 a wrench. I've also seen them at O'Reilly's or Autozone for less than $20 a piece. That and the measuring calipers I bought from Home Depot have helped out tremendously in the years that I've been working on cars.
 

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"They are very inexpensive. I've purchased two from Harbor Freight for about $12-15 a wrench. I've also seen them at O'Reilly's or Autozone for less than $20 a piece. That and the measuring calipers I bought from Home Depot have helped out tremendously in the years that I've been working on cars."


And they're accurate to what +/- 40 lb ft and/or .002"? Not something I'd use. If you NEED a tq wrench or ANY measuring device, spend the money for quality or borrow them from someone that has good tools and will let you. On that note, small stuff, water pump, oil pan, etc, is common sense as stated before. Critical tq, like rods/main caps/heads, a good tq wrench vs a cheapo inaccurate can cost you an engine.
 

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I got two torque wrenches from HF, and they both seem to work just fine, and as much as I use them, $12 each was a great deal.
 

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Your calculation is correct (168 inch lbs = 14 ft lbs) so no worries there. As far as accuracy, if you're shooting for the middle number, you should be OK. A little too tight, a little too loose, still within range.
You should buy a big one for the bigger torques. The inch-pound wrenches are limited, and with either wrench FWIW, shoot for the middle number and you should be good.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Thanks everyone for the input. I do plan on buying a foot pound torque wrench in the near future.

I torque the bolts and re-torqued. And checked for leaks around the pump during the engine run. I'm good there. I do need a new lower hose, ordered the concours style and should be here in a few days.

II can only stare at it now. 😉
 

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Precision Instruments makes very good torque wrenches at affordable prices. Amazon. I have all three of mine checked regularly at our shops cal lab. All three are within 2% accuracy.
Yep, they are a great TQ wrench, The split beam style would be my choice. They use to make them for snap on tools. They can be found on ebay and other internet sites for cheap.
 

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"They are very inexpensive. I've purchased two from Harbor Freight for about $12-15 a wrench. I've also seen them at O'Reilly's or Autozone for less than $20 a piece. That and the measuring calipers I bought from Home Depot have helped out tremendously in the years that I've been working on cars."


And they're accurate to what +/- 40 lb ft and/or .002"? Not something I'd use. If you NEED a tq wrench or ANY measuring device, spend the money for quality or borrow them from someone that has good tools and will let you. On that note, small stuff, water pump, oil pan, etc, is common sense as stated before. Critical tq, like rods/main caps/heads, a good tq wrench vs a cheapo inaccurate can cost you an engine.
Where are you getting the figure of them being up to 40ft/lbs off?
 

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This is my first post here. As a retired auto mech I have always had Tq bar s in tool box . Have in/lb, ft/lb of good quality. very seldom do use in/lb wrench(mainly for specialised work ie auto trans,
But ALWAYS use ft/lb wrench on critical work without fail. cyl head,big ends,mains,flywheel etc even tho i have a good idea of correct tq. After 50/60 years in trade my elbow now has
its own built in click point?. Now starting to struggle with large truck pinion nuts etc.
PS as an apprentice in the mid 50s the ford workshop foreman always checked our work with his own tq wrench, if not right felt toe of boot or extra time on broom until we got it right.
 

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Lambo101, welcome to VMF. I would love to have a beer or two with you sometime to hear about all the cars and trucks you saw and dealt with over the years. I started at a ford dealer when I was 16 in 1975 as a part-time after school parts driver An expensive torque wrench off the Vulcan tool truck was one of my first big ticket item tools I bought back in the early 80's. I still take great care of it and have used it numerous times over the years as a hobbyist learning to build engines, rears, and suspensions etc etc. I just bought a craftsman inch pound one last year and glad to have it!
 

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Be very careful tightening the water pump bolts, the timing chain cover is aluminum and it is very easy to strip the threads, as I found out. I would torque it to half or 3/4 of the recommended value, let it sit overnight, recheck the torque then see if it leaks.
 

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My experience with old cars is that there are 3 torque settings:
1) A little tight
2) Tight
3) Really tight
This covers everything outside of the engine, trans, and rear. Internal components must be done correctly.

I use the german tightening scale.. good-n-tite. Its a little below stripped and/or sheared off.
 
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