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Discussion Starter #1
So far my breaks "work" it is a jelly bowl system with all around drums however it is all new hardware which includes everything besides the lines. Part of the rebuild was some bigger drums in the front and i think in the front i got about another 1/2 inch to 1 inch more wear surface and in the back it is about 1/4 inch to 1/2 inch. i dont use the breaks that much because i have a 3.03 manual and the transmition is a beeter break but my dad would like me to improve the breaks. so i would like you guys to look at these options. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Here is my first choice that i would like to do it is from a local store Auto Zone. I will explain it to you guys and then see what you think.

Cardone Reman/Brake Power Booster (50-1503) | AutoZone.com_

Ok so i buy this for like 100$ then i replace the jelly bowl with a dual MC but the MC is for a 67 so will it still work with the car and the booster here it is.



Fenco Reman/Master Cylinder (Brake System) (M1488) | AutoZone.com_

Ok so this is the dual resivoir it is suposed to be for a 67 this MC is accualy 20$ not quite sure about that but that is what it is. so what i pretty much would like to do is to get the booster off of the first one then buy the MC then like sell the one that came off the booster. So all together it should be about 190 - a distribution block. but then i am not sure where i am going to get the distribution block from. So what do you guys think.
 

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I'm not to sure on the power booster all of my cars have manual brakes.I'm sure others will chime in ,I don't know if there is a clearanec issue with the shock tower though.As far as the master, By itself it seems to work fine,I have a couple of the same one in my cars for years I also have some friends using them with success. Good news, you don't have to buy a distribution block.You can use your current one,you just need a 3/16" plug fitting,you remove the rear line(and route it directly to the front port of your new dual master) Then plug that portion on your current distribution block.
 

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The dual master cylinder does have a clearance issue when used with the power brake booster. There is (was) a kit that used an import booster that works. I put it on SWMBO's '66 that had manual brakes. Brakes are original drums all around and there are definitely much more effective with the booster.

I believe that someone on here make and sells a kit that works and does not interfere with the shock tower. Forgot who it is; sorry.

How did you increase the drum size etc.? What did you use?
 

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Isn't "break work" an oxymoron? Sorry, couldn't help myself.
Stan
 

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The booster assembly you show is useless, because they don't come with the mounting bracket and lever required to make them work. The 67-up manual cylinder is an excellent safety choice, but requires a universal master cylinder kit, available from Mustang dealers.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
so 22GT what you are trying to say is that this will not bolt up to the firewall? and when you mean that it does not have a lever? then what is the pushrod with the black boot over it and the hole for. It looks to me that that atttaches to the pedal?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
and for those that asked how i got more wear surface. I bought drums that were deaper and bigger pads so accualy now i dont think i can go any lower than 14". but they work better than the original. and like i said it widens the wear surface in drum by those measurements i gave above.
 

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i did the same thing with my front drums. advanced auto parts only sells the bigger drums and brake pads. i got new pads but they wouldnt fit with the original drums so i bought the new drums and installed them. they are about 1/2 inch bigger. they seem to work just fine. when my dad slammed on the brakes while testing the car they sent me from the back seat to the front seat.
 

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Spelling bee style: Brake. B-r-a-k-e. Brake.
 
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