Vintage Mustang Forums banner

1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
10,323 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
A guy in town had a non-running 2000 Explorer with a 4.0 OHV (not SOHC). He said that as he was using it it got continuously harder to get it started. He said he had to put it in N and wiggle the shifter to get it to start. I figured that should be a simple adjustment fix. It had been sitting unstarted for about 2 years.
He told me he had called a junk yard and they told him they'd pay $175 for it. He told me I could have it for $150 so I bought it and brought it home an a trailer. I put in a good battery, connected a timing light and cranked it. It spun over easily and the timing light flashed but it wouldn't even hit on a single cylinder. I couldn't hear a fuel pump running so I got underneath and felt the sending unit. I couldn't feel anything so I pulled it out and connected wires from a battery directly to it and nothing. Before spending a bunch of money on it I got my son out there and had him crank it while I sprayed carb cleaner into the throttle body. It started right up and continued to run until I had emptied the entire can of carb cleaner. But it still wouldn't run on it's own. So I went to the junk yard and got a working fuel pump and it still wouldn't start and run.
Today I pulled the upper intake off to gain access to the injectors. I disconnected a wiring connector from an injector and plugged in a Noid Lite. It flashes while cranking the engine so the injectors are at least receiving the signal. Is it possible that all 6 injectors are so clogged that no fuel gets through?
I noticed that it has both a Camshaft Position Sensor and a Crankshaft Position Sensor. Is it possible that the Crank PS controls the spark and the Cam PS controls the fuel and they are out of synch?
I'm out of ideas. Can anyone help?
 

·
Just some guy
Joined
·
20,004 Posts
About the last of the OHV's there. Doesn't it have a Shraeder valve on the fuel rail? If so, are you getting good fuel pressure there. A gauge would be great but really just turn the ignition on for three seconds and back off. Repeat. Then use a small screwdriver of something to depress the valve like letting air out of a tire. You should get a fairly healthy spray of fuel (watch your eyes). It will only last about a second and won't make a big mess. If you get nothing or just a weak dribble, your fuel pump still isn't working.

There's a fuel inertia cutoff switch somewhere. Right kick panel I think. maybe the left, or even the driver's rear inside quarter panel trim, I can't remember. Too easy to find it though and check to see if it hasn't been triggered.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
840 Posts
Check the door tag, you may get lucky and have a limited slip differential in it.


42 = Open 4.10
46 = Open 3.73
45 = Open 3200 3.55
D4 = Limited Slip 3200 3.73
D2 = Limited Slip 4.10
 

·
Registered
65 Fastback 289 4 spd, 65 convertible 5.0L 5 spd. 3.73 8.8
Joined
·
113 Posts
A guy in town had a non-running 2000 Explorer with a 4.0 OHV (not SOHC). He said that as he was using it it got continuously harder to get it started. He said he had to put it in N and wiggle the shifter to get it to start. I figured that should be a simple adjustment fix. It had been sitting unstarted for about 2 years.
He told me he had called a junk yard and they told him they'd pay $175 for it. He told me I could have it for $150 so I bought it and brought it home an a trailer. I put in a good battery, connected a timing light and cranked it. It spun over easily and the timing light flashed but it wouldn't even hit on a single cylinder. I couldn't hear a fuel pump running so I got underneath and felt the sending unit. I couldn't feel anything so I pulled it out and connected wires from a battery directly to it and nothing. Before spending a bunch of money on it I got my son out there and had him crank it while I sprayed carb cleaner into the throttle body. It started right up and continued to run until I had emptied the entire can of carb cleaner. But it still wouldn't run on it's own. So I went to the junk yard and got a working fuel pump and it still wouldn't start and run.
Today I pulled the upper intake off to gain access to the injectors. I disconnected a wiring connector from an injector and plugged in a Noid Lite. It flashes while cranking the engine so the injectors are at least receiving the signal. Is it possible that all 6 injectors are so clogged that no fuel gets through?
I noticed that it has both a Camshaft Position Sensor and a Crankshaft Position Sensor. Is it possible that the Crank PS controls the spark and the Cam PS controls the fuel and they are out of synch?
I'm out of ideas. Can anyone help?
If it started with carb cleaner it has spark which is controlled by crank sensor, If the noid light blinked the cam sensor is working. You went to junk yard to by a fuel pump? Do you have power to pump? Did you check fuses, inertia switch? Go buy a good pump Motorcraft, Delco, Denso, or Delphi. the other brands leave alone.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
10,323 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
The inertia switch (right side and you don't even have to remove the kick panel) was the first thing I checked. I even "hammered" on it to make it pop and then reset it. I failed to mention that I connected a fuel pressure gauge to the Schrader valve and I see 62 psi. Today I checked the injector harness with a Noid Lite and I'm getting power to the injectors.
Is it logical that all 6 injectors are clogged? It sat for 2 years or so.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
10,323 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
You went to junk yard to by a fuel pump? Do you have power to pump? Did you check fuses, inertia switch? Go buy a good pump Motorcraft
Yep, I didn't want to pay $200-$300 for a new one so I got an original Motorcraft out of another 2000 and tested it right there and it works. $25. I don't want to spend a lot of money on this Explorer and then find out it's not going to run.

Yes, power to the pump checked. Fuses, relay, inertia switch checked. Fuel pressure confirmed.
 

·
Registered
65 Fastback 289 4 spd, 65 convertible 5.0L 5 spd. 3.73 8.8
Joined
·
113 Posts
A guy in town had a non-running 2000 Explorer with a 4.0 OHV (not SOHC). He said that as he was using it it got continuously harder to get it started. He said he had to put it in N and wiggle the shifter to get it to start. I figured that should be a simple adjustment fix. It had been sitting unstarted for about 2 years.
He told me he had called a junk yard and they told him they'd pay $175 for it. He told me I could have it for $150 so I bought it and brought it home an a trailer. I put in a good battery, connected a timing light and cranked it. It spun over easily and the timing light flashed but it wouldn't even hit on a single cylinder. I couldn't hear a fuel pump running so I got underneath and felt the sending unit. I couldn't feel anything so I pulled it out and connected wires from a battery directly to it and nothing. Before spending a bunch of money on it I got my son out there and had him crank it while I sprayed carb cleaner into the throttle body. It started right up and continued to run until I had emptied the entire can of carb cleaner. But it still wouldn't run on it's own. So I went to the junk yard and got a working fuel pump and it still wouldn't start and run.
Today I pulled the upper intake off to gain access to the injectors. I disconnected a wiring connector from an injector and plugged in a Noid Lite. It flashes while cranking the engine so the injectors are at least receiving the signal. Is it possible that all 6 injectors are so clogged that no fuel gets through?
I noticed that it has both a Camshaft Position Sensor and a Crankshaft Position Sensor. Is it possible that the Crank PS controls the spark and the Cam PS controls the fuel and they are out of synch?
I'm out of ideas. Can anyone help?
Pink/black is power to pump and heavier black is the ground. I check first with test light then I use a halogen bulb to see if the circuit will carry a load.
 

·
Registered
65 Fastback 289 4 spd, 65 convertible 5.0L 5 spd. 3.73 8.8
Joined
·
113 Posts
Yep, I didn't want to pay $200-$300 for a new one so I got an original Motorcraft out of another 2000 and tested it right there and it works. $25. I don't want to spend a lot of money on this Explorer and then find out it's not going to run.

Yes, power to the pump checked. Fuses, relay, inertia switch checked. Fuel pressure confirmed.
If you have 35 psi of pressure then it probably is your injectors. If they sit they can quit working, especially if there was ethanol in the tank. I have had little old ladys cars miss from sitting over the winter.
 

·
Just some guy
Joined
·
20,004 Posts
I've sure seen some "red mud" in the tops of Ford injectors but not really so much as to completely stop them up. But if it runs on carb cleaner that's about where you are. Pull them and have a look. Try and pull one straight up and then dump the few drops of fuel out of it onto a piece of paper so you can see what comes out. You can then spray it with carb cleaner and air but beyond that you need either an ultrasonic tank or to pay someone with one to clean them. Since it's suspected they might be sticking, some restrained tapping on the sides while you rare cleaning might help.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
10,323 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Check the door tag, you may get lucky and have a limited slip differential in it.


42 = Open 4.10
46 = Open 3.73
45 = Open 3200 3.55
D4 = Limited Slip 3200 3.73
D2 = Limited Slip 4.10
It's a 45. That was actually the first thing I checked!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
10,323 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
A little bit of an update.
Going on the assumption that all 6 injectors were clogged I was able to gain access to only one of the injectors without removing the upper plenum and fuel rail (which is actually a flat metal plate about 1/2" thick). So I got the Noid lights from O'Reilly's loaner tools, unplugged the electrical connector from the 1 injector I could access and plugged in the Noid. It blinked while cranking.
So I pulled the plastic plenum (what a complete PITA it was to get the EGR tube out from between the valve cover and the A/C hose!!). There are 6 studs and nuts that hold the plenum to the manifold. After removing the nuts and the plenum I saw that the fuel "rail" is actually this flat metal plate and the injectors are captured between the plate and the lower manifold by the 6 studs which have a flange that tightens the fuel rail to the lower intake. The upper ends of the studs have a male Torx to remove them but I have no female Torx sockets so I went to the pawn shop. Digging through their plastic tubs of sockets I actually found a full set of the female Torx sockets. They are marked E and then a number. I found E5,6,7,8,10,12,14 and 16. I bought them and a few other small SAE sockets for $3! Thank God for pawn shops. Those sockets would have cost me $20 at the auto parts store. But I digress.
Using the E6 socket I removed the studs and the fuel rail. Being a Certified Youtube Mechanic I went there and found a video on how to clean injectors using a tire valve stem, carb cleaner and a 12V battery. I cleaned all 6 injectors and put them back in, put it all back together (getting that EGR tube back in place was just as big a PITA as it was coming out!!) and held my breath. I turned the key and after a few seconds it started! It would have started sooner if I had bled the air out of the fuel rail.
It was running but not purring. I shut it off and restarted it successfully. It was late so I called it a day.
Yesterday morning I went out and tried to start it again. Back to the same old crap of cranking like crazy but no start! The guy I bought it from had told me that when he first started having problems starting it he had to move the shifter up and down in P to find the sweet spot where it would start. Then it got to the point where it no longer worked in P so he had to go to N and wiggle the shifter there. When that quit working he parked it. My Haynes manual and youtube have nothing whatsoever to say about a NSS so I went to the rockauto website and sure enough it has a NSS. So back to the P-N-P I went and got a NSS. I got an ignition switch also just in case because switches are only $7 each.
Since Haynes and youtube said nothing about the Explorer even having an NSS, much less about adjusting it, I looked for a hole to insert an alignment pin and there isn't one. Then I noticed that the switch had NEUTRAL and an alignment mark near where the switch fits on the shift shaft of the transmission. I found an additional alignment mark on the part of the switch that rotates with the shift shaft. OK, this is how it works! So I got the NSS installed and aligned. Now for the moment of truth- turn the key and it starts!
I have an ancient OBDII code reader from HF that only works with the engine running. So now that it runs I connected it and it has 2 codes- 0340 and 0453. 0340 is Crankshaft Position Sensor and 0453 is EGR Over Pressure. When I first started working on it I had noticed that the EGR pressure switch was melted so I had already replaced it with one from the junk yard. While I had the engine running I noticed that the heater valve was leaking and the coolant temperature didn't work. So I have ordered and I am waiting for a heater valve, a temp sending unit and a crank position sensor from rockauto. More to follow when the parts arrive.
I still have no idea how the NSS would prevent the engine from starting when it had spark and fuel while cranking.
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top