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Discussion Starter #1
ok im havin engine problems,

I have a 64.5 coupe w/260 i bought it about a month ago and my first priority was to get it runnin. I rebuilt the carb and drained the gas tank and checked the fuel flow and all of that is alright. Now comes the stumper (for me at least) When i try to start it it will turn over and fire and run for about 2-3 sec. and then quit. do any of you know what m problem could be? any help will be greatly appriciated as i really want to get it runnin so i can start restorin it for school this fall THANX!

64.5 Coupe
260 V-8

Even got the good ol' generator

And the first hood ornament ive ever seen on a mustang
 

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If it is easy to restart after it dies, I would suspect the choke or a vacuum leak. Also, what kind of shape is the ignition in? Decent plugs, wires, points, condensor, dist. cap?

...modified '65 convertible...
 

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Turn the key to on and see if you're getting any voltage to the coil...

The reason I mention this is, when I shut the kill switch in my ignition circuit off, that starting the car in that condition lets it run for a second or two then shut off....

Maybe you're not getting any voltage to the coil and distributor when the key is on......

Midlife might have some further ideas....he's the electrical guru here...

Pat
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1570936&a=11937754&p=42910787.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #4
My plugs are wonderful and the distributor/condensor look almost new. I have checked the voltage and it seems fine, but it might be the choke, ive also heard a few ppl say that my timing could be off but i dont know how to adjust it w/o it running and therefore not being able to use a timing light, but i thank you for the input so far and im looking forward to more
great replys

Thanx

64.5 Coupe
260 V-8

Even got the good ol' generator

And the first hood ornament ive ever seen on a mustang
 

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The idle cirucuit might not be working in the carburetor. You may be getting just enough fuel when you step on the gas to start from the accelerator pump. A quick way to separate this problem from gas or electrical - pump a couple of times, start engine and keep pumping (aout 2 to 3 times per second)the gas about 1/4 down from the up positon. If the car keeps running - you're not getting gas through the idle circuit of the carburetor - if it doesn't it may be electrical.

In the start position you should get full 12 volts to the coil, then when the key is released, the voltage is dropped to about 6 to 7 volts. With the key on, motor off, check the small wire going to the coil from the solenoid - the voltage should be as stated.
 
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Have you actually checked the voltage at the coil when the ignition key is in the Run position, but not turned to Start? There is a resistor in the ignition circuit that cuts the voltage down when the car is running. If that resistor is bad, you could be able to start the car when voltage is applied through the switch in Start position, then it would cut out like CAMACHINIST states when you turned it back to the Run position.

Gene Zierdt
'65 Conv.
302/roller cam/valves/ported
T-5 w/3.55
negative roll, progressive front, 4 1/2 rear springs
Front & rear anti-sway bars
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Well my actual ignition isnt working too well, you see i can put it on accessory and run but i cant actually start the car from the ignition switch, i have to jump the car by running a screwdriver across the solenoid, but the guy that had it before mr *i trust him) said he started it fine this way do u think i just need a new ignition/lock cylinder?

thanx


64.5 Coupe
260 V-8

Even got the good ol' generator

And the first hood ornament ive ever seen on a mustang
 

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The easy test is to start the car and have someone spray small amounts of starting fluid/carb cleaner into the carb. If it keeps running past the "2-3 second" period,then the trouble is lack of fuel to the carb. Good luck
 

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Jeez. Replace the starter solenoid on the fender apron...about $20 at most. It probably is not providing voltage to your coil, but rather a short to ground, which allows those nasty electrons to bypass your coil. You'll also not have to hotwire the car everytime either.

http://clubs.hemmings.com/baymustang/platesmall.jpgLet me check your shorts! My multimeter is just a-waiting! Formerly known as Midlife in the old VMF.
King of the Old Farts *struts*
 

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You need to use the process of elimination. Get a can of starter spray and when it is running for that couple seconds if adding a dash of starter spray brings it back to life and you can keep it running for 10-15 seconds odds are pretty good it is a fuel mixture problem (too much/too little of air and or fuel) if starter spray don't keep it chugging along then the problem may be electrical.

To troubleshoot electrical you take an old sparkplug and disconnect one of the ignition wires and plug it into the extra plug (leave 8 spark plugs in the engine). lay the base of the extra plug against the exhaust manifold and watch the spark, is it nice and white and sharp?

If the engine starts the timing is close to right, so i wouldn't worry to much about that. If you really want to look just rotate the engine till the zero timing mark on the crank is being pointed to by the indicator. Remove the distributor cap and look if it is pointing at #1, if it is pointing away 180 degrees from it turn the engine 1 full turn. It should now point near #1, at this point you just have to guestimate hoe many degrees it is off of #1. Go get the protractor out that you though was so stupid in math class.

One other test to try is hold the choke open with your finger with the car right after it stalls out and look inside the carb. Now pump it and see if the accelerator pump will pump over 5 times in a row, if the fuel bowl is empty you will only get 2 or 3 pumps out before you pump it dry a full fuel bowl will pump a bunch of times like 20.

Motor
 

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Connect a jumper wire from battery+ to coil+, if the motor will run, you have eliminated fuel problems. If fuel delivery is the problem pump the carburetor and watch for two small streams of gasoline in the venturis, no streams, no gas in the carburetor. I suspect a defective resistor in the ignition switch (a $15.00 Auto Zone type part) or possibly a clogged fuel filter. Many other possibilities... Let us know what the problem is/was.

Required tools for operating a Vintage Mustang:
1. Duct Tape
2. J.B. Weld
3. B.F.H. (Big Fat Hammer)
4. VINTAGE MUSTANG FORUMS II
(Power is cheap, reliability costs money!)
 
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can yo ukeep it runnign by pumpint the gas? If so, the idle circuit in the car has a problem. If even that wo'nt work, can you keep it runnign by pouring gas in the carb? If not, you have an ignition problem somewhere. if so, maybe jsut the needle & seat stuck or float too low?

1970 Fastback, 4V 351C, various colors with black interior
 
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