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Discussion Starter #1
Ok heres the deal. i am goingto start school on the 8th of next month. So, I really need to get my mustang into the state of a very reliable car. Since i have only been able to drive it for the first 2 days that I got it (mechanical problems) It worries me that this wont be possible. Now, should I do an engine rebuild? How much would that cost? The money isnt really flowing right now so IDK.

How can I get this puppy to be a reliable car?

Are there any cheap rebuilt i-6's that i can buy?
I need opinions, options, HELP!!!

I have a 1966 i-6.
 

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I'm afraid we're gonna need a little more information than (mechanical problems). What are the symptoms? Who had it before you and how did it run for them? Is it leaking anything? Any strange noises? When was it's last tune up? What do the coolant and oil look like? Help us help you brother.

Scott
 

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Mine has been a daily driver for the 2 1/2 years I have owned it. Mustangs can be as reliable as any other car, they just need more maintenance to keep them that way.

Other than reliability there is also a safety element you should consider for a daily driver.

If I had to narrow it to the minimum things, I would say get an electronic ignition, like a pertronix unit and make sure your brakes are in top shape.

Other than that, you may have to give us somewhat of a 'state of the union' on your car so further suggestions could be made.

Kevin
 

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The 200 6 cylinder engine is a very reliable unit, when matted with a c4 automatic (Don't get me started about the "Paper" 3sp manual, ech!). What exactly are the syptoms? If it just needs a tune up than that should be easy enough. I would convert to a pertronix instead of points, but other than that the 200 drivetrain is reliable and very easy to work on. Go through the brakes and suspension to make sure nothing is worn out and your in good shape.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Doesnt seem to be in that bad of shape. I bought it in PA and drove it to my house (2 hour ride). It always starts right up but The first prob which I still have is that the car drains the battery. Everything is shut off but somehow it drains the battery. I just put in a new waterpump and thermostat and the coolant is nice and clean after i flushed the system. The car wasnt driven for 1-2 years by the previous owner....they did sometimes take it out for a little spin just to keep it's juices flowing, but i dont think they did that a lot. When I stop the car it kinda sounds like it is breaking down, but i guess that is normal. Car seems fine but i would to make it very very reliable...such as an engine rebuild or something. I dont want to leave work one day just to see that my car wont start and I cant get to school.

thnx
 

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Joao,

I bought my 65 as a daily driver, paid $5300 and spent about another $1500 getting road ready and I drive "Holly" to work every day and a bunch on the weekends!

The guy I bought it from almost a year ago had his daughter driving it to high school every day for two years too! I have a Petronix ignition, front disks, decent dual exhaust, 289, Edelbrock Preformer, Holley 650, good radiator, 5 blade fan and cowl and an underdash CD player and XM receiver...soon to add Vintage Air (must have in Texas!).

I drive about 40 miles round trip and get pretty good mileage...and a lot of thumbs up!
 

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I'd start with a new battery and an upgrade to an electronic ignition.
 

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My Cars a Daily Driver, and i used it for the last 2 years of my highschool. Some things to consider. Like previous posts, make sure your safety is pretty good. Meaning Brakes are fairly new, all new fluids in the engine and other systems. I found it VERY useful to carry extra bulbs for rear taillights in my glovecompartment.. You never know when those are gonna go. Last thing i have is....if its not broken dont touch it. Ive learned many times the hardway that lesson. Somethig was working ok....but tried to improve, and next thing you know the cars ot of commision. So just be prepared to have another car handy if u start fooling around with things for improvement.
 

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I drove my souped-up 66 Fastback between Patuxent River, Md and Chesapeak, Va (200 Miles one way) every weekend for a year in 1992. Never once let me down.
 

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get a new battery, if it is draining then check for a short somewhere. it shouldnt lose any juice for the most part.. im guessin you are in college you said work, then school. but if you are in iether one, dont worry about the paint job at all. if its nice now good, it wont be when you get done b/c school kids are idiots and dont care, they really dont care when you are in high school.
 

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I got my mustang last Thanksgiving. The first thing I did was check the chassies & brakes. Alternator, carbeurator, and power steering system. Lately I have been setting timing and have even reassembled the distributor. When I bought my car it had been sitting in someones driveway in running condition, but not road worthy. Lately, I have been driving it to work and it has been very dependable. I have no AC and luckly Oklahoma has had a cool spell of 90 instead of 105 in high humidity. Gotta thank the hurricane. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #12
i already bought a new battery...and i am in technical school for automotive technology :: . I just really dont want it to let me down....eheheheheh

thnx for all the replies
 

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I agree with the if it's not broke don't fix it for the most part. If the car starts, and stays running, and is not blowing a lot of black or blue smoke out of the tail pipe then you should concentrate on other areas than rebuilding the engine.

I am working on this for my wife's 66. She uses it for a fair weather daily driver.

1) Tune-up: spark plugs, wires, cap, rotor, Pertronix (replaces points and condenser), gas filter, air filter, pcv valve, timing check, vacuum check, replace acelerator pump on carb if the car has not been recently re-built (this went on ours with no warning), check vacuum advance on distributor for proper operation (ours was rusted up on the inside and only cost $10 to replace). Also inspect any rubber hoses for dry rot (PCV hose, vacuum hoses, gas lines)

2) Check the alternator and voltage regulator. VR can be tested with an voltmeter. See if you are getting around 14.5 steady. New VR is about $10. Check coil. New coil is about $10. Can have coil and alternator checked at most parts stores.

3) Suspension: Check shocks for wear. Fairly easy to replace and don't cost much. Check tie rods and ball koints for excessive wear.

4) Brakes: If can't afford the disc brake upgrade at least ensure the drums, wheel cylinders, springs and shoes are good working order. Also, a dual MC is a must for safety. And bleed the entire system. And ensure the emergency parking brake is operable.

5) Cooling: Repalce the upper, lower, and bypass hoses and thermostat along with the coolant.

6) If automatic trans check the ATF, if it is varnished have a transfusion of the TC and trans.

7) Oil/filter change. Use a quart of the Marvel Mystery Oil in place of a quart of regular oil.

After this you should have a dependable daily driver, until something breaks.
 

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Since my Fastback would be my daily driver, I replaced all electrical components the same week I bought it. The first chapter of the book for my college auto mechanics class read that 90% of all car problems are electrical.
 

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Lots of good suggestions by others already. The most important one was "if it ain't broke, don't fix it". At least not until you have finished school and have the time, and money, to devote.

As I recall, you posted about a short you had that was draining your battery. It's a must to fix that short. If you don't, it will let you down repeatedly. The I6 is a very good and substantial motor. Make sure to change the oil regularly. Mine craves an oil change about every 2700 miles. Any over that, and it will start burning some oil. Always has, always will.

If yours has fresh oil in it and burns a lot, you may need to think about an overhaul at some point. No real hurry unless you hear bearing noises in the engine. Assuming you have a solid engine, focus on the things others have suggested. But, do fix the short that is draining your battery. A search on "shorts" will provide a lot of information on how to track down a short. If you don't have a voltmeter, get one, you're going to need it to own this car. Good luck!
 
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