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Discussion Starter #1
What's my best bet? I've hit the rust on the tank with quite a bit of power wire brushing and liquid rust remover, but apparently it's pretty deep b/c that didn't get it all.

Can I use POR-15 right on top of this? Does the 'rust converter' from Eastwood really work? Or just leave the rust remover on longer maybe?

Would it be crazy to get it sand/media blasted off, considering I'm not stripping down the whole car? Too messy/dusty?

Advice appreciated.

-Nate



 

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For the price of a new one I would just replace it.
Russ
 

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Yes, just brush POR 15 over the top of the rust and let it sit for about an hour, then hit it again with another coat. After that, just paint it. POR 15 will not only kill the rust, it will convert it to a good metal, and it also acts as your primer.
 

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Looks like it is dented on the top. That plus being rusty I would consider replacing it as well, but if you don't want to right now, I'd shoot some Zero Rust (couple light coats) on it and call it a day.

Zero Rust
 

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You call that rust?? You should've seen my car!!! Zap it with the rust convertor of your choice, replacing the panel isn't nearly as simple.
 
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It might be my crappy monitor but it looks like there is quite a bit of rust on the trunk floors and the panel in front of the gas tank. I would pull the tank and see how the rest of the floor looks. I will warn you that doing so can turn into a major project...ask me how I know
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for the responses.

Is POR-15 only available online or will Ace or AutoZone have it?

I think the pics actually make the rust look worse than it is. That said, I may decide to pull the tank and check it out. Also, it's not dented, just lighting in the photo.

-Nate
 

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From looking at the images, many people would call your car "rust free". A lot of it looks sandable or removable (again, just by looking at the images). Have you tried wire wheeling it with a drill? A new gas tank looks more appropriate than cutting anything out. POR 15 certainly may be in the order, too.
 
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If you get in there and the tank is the only thing bugging you they are really cheap to replace. I got a new Canadian made tank, sending unit, lock ring and a new o ring for around 100 IIRC dollars. It had a drain plug in the bottom which will/has come in handy. HTH
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Riverside66 said:
From looking at the images, many people would call your car "rust free". A lot of it looks sandable or removable (again, just by looking at the images). Have you tried wire wheeling it with a drill? A new gas tank looks more appropriate than cutting anything out. POR 15 certainly may be in the order, too.
Yep, hit it with the wire wheel--on the big drill no less.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
napaguy said:
If you get in there and the tank is the only thing bugging you they are really cheap to replace. I got a new Canadian made tank, sending unit, lock ring and a new o ring for around 100 IIRC dollars. It had a drain plug in the bottom which will/has come in handy. HTH
Thanks napaguy--if you could point me to a link for such a tank I would be oblidged. They seem run closer to $200 at the usual sites.

Update: Never mind, just checked eBay!
 

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Rust free? Where I live it would be mint! The dents in the tank top/trunk
floor would be my main concern! I'd put in a new tank and get on with it! :p
 

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if it looks that bad on the outside, just think of all the crud that is in the inside of the tank. definitely replace it and while you have the tank out clean the fuel lines or replace them also. there is a vw restoration shop down the road from me that sells por15. call around to some local resto shops and you will probably find a vendor. make sure to use metal ready before applying por15 or it will fish eye.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
slim said:
Rust free? Where I live it would be mint! The dents in the tank top/trunk
floor would be my main concern! I'd put in a new tank and get on with it! :p
Heh. The body of this car is actually in decent shape. I bought it sight unseen and was happy to find there was not cowl rust. The LH toe box area needs to be replaced though.
 

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Discussion Starter #16

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I would be concerned that working the top of the tank with a wheel, that if you have a pin hole in the tank, you could spark off a vapor, and bang up the entire tank.

For the cost of a new tank, with the probamatic crud that is in there, just hand a new tank, bed it correctly, new sending unit and hoses, and be done with it. Zinc spray it and don't worry about it for the next 40 years. Your carb and fuel filter will thank you.
 

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My two cents...

Stop looking at department store rust removers/converters. Get an automotive grade product, something like POR-15's Metal Ready, Ospho, or Picklex 20. The "converter" products by Duplicolor/Krylon/whoever are crap.

POR-15 paint doesn't do anything but seal out the oxygen and moisture from metal. If you want to "destroy" rust, you need a phosphoric acid based product, like those mentioned above.

Change the gas tank, it's not worth the hassle of trying to save a Mustang tank.
 

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Agree +++. Just for my 3 cents worth. There is no magic potient that will convert
rust to steel. Those coatings convert the iron oxide to a higher oxide and seal
the surface.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I think I'll just leave the tank alone for now and replace it later, and work on the other bits of rust in the car.

And no I wasn't exactly enthusiastic about using the wire wheel on my gas tank either, but I wanted to see what kind of effect it would have.

Anyone know where to find POR-15 in a store, or is it only available online? Want to avoid shipping costs if I can.

Thanks,
-Nate
 
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