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Discussion Starter #1
Before installing my new dash pad, instrument bezel, and panels on my 67 coupe I decided to paint the dash. I sanded to bare metal, sprayed primer and wet-sanded several times to a smooth finish and then sprayed the final lacquer paint. I am very dissatified with the velvet finish instead of a smooth sheen. I used a rattle-can so is that my problem or am I lacking a step? This beginner painter needs help!!!
 

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I assume by velvet you meant that it has a texture to the paint? I persoanlly have never been very hapy with the quality of the "mustang" paints. Thye never give you a good finish, no matter what care you take in prepping. I ususally heat the can in hot water to raise the internal pressure for better atomization. The last three cans I bought were the wrong color blue, now my dash is a 68 color, and matches none of the other components. I feel like throwing the empties through MU's front window....
 

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You don't say what color interior you have. If it is black, then the Krylon semi-flat black is a very good match for the Ford interior black. If your dash is textured, that isn't too bad, because it can be fixed by wetsanding with 220. After that, try using a paint shop brand cleaner/degreaser/dewaxer - like the product made by PPG which they call tar remover (to get aroud the EPA VOC requirements.) Wipe on, don't scrub it, jujst wipe on and wipe off, let dry for 20 minutes or so. One of the weird things is that if you wetsand, it actually will not degrease and the residue, even if wiped down with water, usually will contaminate the surface so that if you paint over it, you will have texture - like fisheye. I am a firm believer in the dewaxer, degreaser, cleaner, after painting 3 cars.

For my interior, which is parchment, I went to a PPG auto paint store and had them mix up a quart of my color, using SEM brand materials. I then sprayed it with my gun. You can get them to put it in an aerosal can for you if you want. Costs more, but convenient.

Hope this helps. good luck.
 

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Hemikiller: The 68 color is the same for 66/7/8-light blue.
Wet sanding with 220 is so coarse it will take off the paint. 600 or higher is the tickert. Agree, re washing the surface. I use detergent, alcohol, before sanding, as mentioned, which if not done, will spread the fisheye causing sh!t into the surface. A common mistake in using the rattle cans seems to be NOT using a thin coat of lacquer primer prior to painting. Lacquer needs a primer to bond well and not peel. When new, the early Stangs had a dull finish on the dash which could be likened to velvet. The factory spray cans for Stangs, primarily the Omni brand, are semi gloss to match orig. I recently was sent some that was called Rainbow. It should be "somewhere over the rainbow"! The Omni-Pac is better. IMNSHO. Finally, have found it necessary, living in a humid climate, to warm the surface with a hair dryer, and if damp out, hold the dryer at arm's length from the surface keeping dry air in the car.
 

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Hello,

I'm no expert, but in my experience I've discovered that if you hold the can too far from the work, it can make the surface texture a little rough.

Good luck,
John Thomas
 

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Discussion Starter #7
It is the texture I'm not happy about. I used Omni-Pak L 5760 Light Ivy Gold Paint. I used 400 grit sand paper on the primer. Also, I tried light coats and slighter heavier coats on the final paint and I still get that rough, velvet textured finish product. Do I need to sand the final paint for a smooth finish? It doesn't need to be shiney but definitely needs to be smoother. Appreciate the help!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I thought about using a clear coat, however, since I don't know poop about painting I thought I'd very lightly wet sand the finish coat on my glove box and wow, I finally got the look and especially the desired textued I was wanting. I looks great anf feels very smooth. Thanks guys! :)
 
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