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Discussion Starter #1
Today After a good run the car would struggle to make 3000 Rpm,real bad skip,felt like it was runing 4 cylinders
Made back to the shop and let it cool off and fired it back up still missing but not as bad,as soon as it got warm enough for the E Fan to kick in (195) it would barely run. shut it down again and tried to refire but all it would do is crank no fire at all. No flash from the timing light on any cylinder.

Here is what I got
Petronix 1
Accel super stock coil which is blistering hot to the touch
Voltage at the coil is 8.5 volts in run position
Battery is charging at 13.7 volts
coil Ohms out at 4.6 primary 11.65 secondary

My gut feeling is the coil
What do you think?
 

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Those symptoms are typical of the Petronix 1 going out. Keep everything the same but put the points back on, or a different Petronix. And be sure to ck. the Petronix (or points) gap.


Z. Ray
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Tried a new coil this morning , still no fire.Popped the cap off and noticed all the labels are melted off the pertronix. Is there a better alternative to replace the points with
 

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Haywired said:
Tried a new coil this morning , still no fire.Popped the cap off and noticed all the labels are melted off the pertronix. Is there a better alternative to replace the points with
yes, but it's pricey.

no msd box required, although you can add a msd box later if desired which is what I did. I've used this model for about 8 years/25,000 miles. no issues of any kind. With this dist you can remove the vac. advance mechanism if desired. $ 359.95 :

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MSD-8352/

needs msd box (doesn't have a vac. advance) $253.95 :

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MSD-8579/

needs msd box (has vac. advance) $269.95:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MSD-8479/


I hear that the Petronix 2 is more reliable, but I don't have any experience with that unit. I tried the Petronix 1, and when it failed went to the MSD distributor, etc.

Z. Ray
 

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I had a similar event happen to me, and posted it here a few months ago. Same symptoms, rough idle, (after a high RPM run)and when I got it home, I had no spark...the car would not start.

In my case, I have the Pertonix Flamethrower coil, which has 1.5 ohms resistance...specified to match the Pertonix 1. ( I don't know what they recommend for the Pertronix 2). My coil did not get hot, as yours, maybe it's the higher resistance in your coil? Anyway, I found that the factory pink resistance wire (ignition switch to coil)was causing TOO much resistance in combo with the Flamethrower coil. I bypassed the original resistance wire, so the coil could get the full 12 volts. Wish I had known this earlier, car fired right up, seems weird, but true.

I still ad that ragged iddle, and noted the accelerator squirter just dribbled on the passenger side. On VMF advice (thanks guys!) I sqirted some carb cleaner into the Edelbrock Performee...the little bowl vents, pulled the needles, hosed it in the orofices, and pulled out the idle screws, hosed them deep as well. It blew out the varnish or grit...car runs great! I wonder if the 12 volts to coil helped, also? Runs really good.

Good Luck!
 

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I had the same thing happen to me. Turned out the wire to the + side of the coil had wiggled loose.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Talked to Tech support and found out that any low resistance coil is ok, also that you can apply 12 volts to the unit. As for the heat on the coil I did some investigating after someone sugested the pink resistance wire might cause to much voltage drop and what do I find but a Mopar style Ballast resistor in the pink wire under the dash sitting on top of the pedal support!

Any way I think that probably cuased a very high resistance and started the downward spiral, funny thing is it took almost 4 years to crap out

Ordered a P II unit and matching coil of which will get a full 12 volts
 

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You might check the resistance with an ohm meter after you remove the ballast resistor. Just to see if that pink resistance wire is still holding back some voltage.

That was the problem in my case, and a new (non-resistance) wire solved the issue.
 
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