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Discussion Starter #1
Hello - trying to get my car as original/period-correct as practical. That said, I installed a pertronix dual-point ignition and related coil. I need to paint the top of the coil, but also need help figuring out the correct connectors that should be used for the wires going to the coil. Can someone provide an example of what the wiring should look like and maybe point me in the right direction for obtaining those connectors? Pic of the coil in its current status is below. Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The factory connectors were 90* molded fittings. You can buy them as "pigtails" but you will have to splice them onto your wiring harness. Hiding the splices may be difficult. And the only way to get the proper wire color is to find an old Ford wiring harness to cut them from.


https://www.wiringproducts.com/right-agle-singlecontact-molded-connector.html
This is very helpful - thank you! Molded fittings ordered. With those fittings, I guess this would them present an issue in terms of how that second wire on the one terminal would work. I don't think there's enough of the terminal available to tighten a nut over the existing wire fitting, and then have a molded fitting on top of it. Maybe I just use one of the molded fittings on the other terminal. :shrug:

Anyone have ideas as to where I could find a picture of a stock/factory coil with wiring?
 

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Hint: slice the wires inside the distributor, looks more factory.
 

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With those fittings, I guess this would them present an issue in terms of how that second wire on the one terminal would work. I don't think there's enough of the terminal available to tighten a nut over the existing wire fitting, and then have a molded fitting on top of it.
The coil terminal is definitely too short for the loop, the nut, then the elbow. I made an adapter from a spare loop terminal, pulled the plastic insulator off and put the elbow over it so I didn't have to cut my factory power wire. The one side of the coil will have two loop terminals, no way around it unless you splice further down the wire to hide it. Remember, the Pertronix has the two wires from distributor to the coil. The factory only had one.

If you still need a pic I will take one when I get home.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The coil terminal is definitely too short for the loop, the nut, then the elbow. I made an adapter from a spare loop terminal, pulled the plastic insulator off and put the elbow over it so I didn't have to cut my factory power wire. The one side of the coil will have two loop terminals, no way around it unless you splice further down the wire to hide it. Remember, the Pertronix has the two wires from distributor to the coil. The factory only had one.

If you still need a pic I will take one when I get home.
Very helpful - thanks! Would love a pic if you wouldn't mind some time this weekend.
Rich
 

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According to Bob Mannel's Book "Mustang & Ford Small Block V8, 1962-1969" (considered by many as the "Bible" on small blocks, the 90° push-on (slip-on) connector for the Primary Wire (Distributor to Coil), masde its first appearance in 1967. He also notes that the 1965-66 289's used the "loop" (ring) connector with nut and external lock washer, on the Coil end.

Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #8
According to Bob Mannel's Book "Mustang & Ford Small Block V8, 1962-1969" (considered by many as the "Bible" on small blocks, the 90° push-on (slip-on) connector for the Primary Wire (Distributor to Coil), masde its first appearance in 1967. He also notes that the 1965-66 289's used the "loop" (ring) connector with nut and external lock washer, on the Coil end.

Bob
Well this certainly changes things. Thanks, Bob. Still working on tracking down pics....
Rich
 

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Pics of Pertronix installed in my '65 and '68 both with original yellow tops. Please remember that I am a cheap person so looked for the most... cheap... way out.

I wrapped the Pertronix wiring in cloth electrical tape to hide most of it till it got to the coil.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
According to Bob Mannel's Book "Mustang & Ford Small Block V8, 1962-1969" (considered by many as the "Bible" on small blocks, the 90° push-on (slip-on) connector for the Primary Wire (Distributor to Coil), masde its first appearance in 1967. He also notes that the 1965-66 289's used the "loop" (ring) connector with nut and external lock washer, on the Coil end.

Bob
Do we know what color the insulation on the loop connectors is supposed to be? Black?
Thanks.......Rich
 

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Rich : This is a good, and appropriate question. While I can tell you what I have seen, In believe that we need to have confirmation from an owner, or preferably several owners, of known, original K cars to be sure.

First, just to be sure that all are on the "same page" ; there are two wires that attach to the Coil. One is from the Ignition Switch, and attaches to the post marked "BAT" ; the other is from the Distributor (Distributor Primary Wire), and attaches to the post on the Coil marked "DIST". In all cases, the wire from the Ignition appears to terminate with a Black, 90°, push-on connector. The wire from the Distributor is Black, and terminates with a "Ring Connector" for attachment to the Coil. The Ring Connector, has a molded rubber/vinyl insulation around it where the wire is attached to the Ring Connector. The color of this insulation is what is in question.

I have only 2 pictures of supposedly un-restored 1966 K codes (I don't have any of 65's) ; one has obviously had the "coil end" replaced with a crimp-on connector, so that doesn't help. The other has yellow molded insulation around the "wire end" of the Ring Connector. In Mannel's book, although the pictures are in Black & White, the molded insulation is Black. In addition, all of the reproduction Primary Wires currently being made for 1965-67 K Codes, have Black insulation around the "Wire end" of the Ring Connector.

While one can't always trust what is being made as Reproductions, it appears that the answer may be Black.
Hopefully, we can get some input from those with known originals to confirm, or refute this.

Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Rich : This is a good, and appropriate question. While I can tell you what I have seen, In believe that we need to have confirmation from an owner, or preferably several owners, of known, original K cars to be sure.

First, just to be sure that all are on the "same page" ; there are two wires that attach to the Coil. One is from the Ignition Switch, and attaches to the post marked "BAT" ; the other is from the Distributor (Distributor Primary Wire), and attaches to the post on the Coil marked "DIST". In all cases, the wire from the Ignition appears to terminate with a Black, 90°, push-on connector. The wire from the Distributor is Black, and terminates with a "Ring Connector" for attachment to the Coil. The Ring Connector, has a molded rubber/vinyl insulation around it where the wire is attached to the Ring Connector. The color of this insulation is what is in question.

I have only 2 pictures of supposedly un-restored 1966 K codes (I don't have any of 65's) ; one has obviously had the "coil end" replaced with a crimp-on connector, so that doesn't help. The other has yellow molded insulation around the "wire end" of the Ring Connector. In Mannel's book, although the pictures are in Black & White, the molded insulation is Black. In addition, all of the reproduction Primary Wires currently being made for 1965-67 K Codes, have Black insulation around the "Wire end" of the Ring Connector.

While one can't always trust what is being made as Reproductions, it appears that the answer may be Black.
Hopefully, we can get some input from those with known originals to confirm, or refute this.

Bob
This is great info - thanks, Bob!
 

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I saw this kit recently. spliseal.com They make molds for ring terminal ends. A little pricey but an answer.
 

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The Reproduction wires currently being made(with the Black molded insulation) for 1965-67 K Code cars, is only about $6.00. Why would anyone want to mess with molding their own ??

Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #15
The Reproduction wires currently being made(with the Black molded insulation) for 1965-67 K Code cars, is only about $6.00. Why would anyone want to mess with molding their own ??

Bob
In terms of a mold...always good to have options! A little high maintenance for me though...
Any suggestions as to where I can track down reproduction wires with black molded insulation? For now I was just thinking of putting some black shrink wrap over a readily available colored connector, but i think i like your idea.
Thanks in advance.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Got me thinking why not? Doesn't look too bad, at least better than the red it was. The Pertronix will never be concours correct.
Looks good!!
 
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