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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hi,
here is where i'm at, about a month ago i put a new timing chain on my 200, i also put on a new distibutor. it was running fine for about a month , then this past saturday when i cranked it up after about 10-30 seconds it started to run a little rough i revved it a few times ( thinking temps had dropped and maybe that was it) and it smoothed out and then sunday same thing but rougher but she smoothed out and it ran fine the rest of the day, monday comes and again it ran rough after smoothing out when i drove it it felt like it was surging , and today it wouldn't crank . when i started to check things , i put a old but good coil in it to check that, i put in the old but rebuilt distributor back in, points are new and gapped. but as checked things out no spark to #1 plug has power to coil i have power at the coil , also new plugs and wires when i did the chain. i'm planning on getting a new selinoid and coil today, and go from there any thoughts about what else could be the problem?
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
hi,
here is where i'm at, about a month ago i put a new timing chain on my 200, i also put on a new distibutor. it was running fine for about a month , then this past saturday when i cranked it up after about 10-30 seconds it started to run a little rough i revved it a few times ( thinking temps had dropped and maybe that was it) and it smoothed out and then sunday same thing but rougher but she smoothed out and it ran fine the rest of the day, monday comes and again it ran rough after smoothing out when i drove it it felt like it was surging , and today it wouldn't crank . when i started to check things , i put a old but good coil in it to check that, i put in the old but rebuilt distributor back in, points are new and gapped. but as checked things out no spark to #1 plug has power to coil i have power at the coil , also new plugs and wires when i did the chain. i'm planning on getting a new selinoid and coil today, and go from there any thoughts about what else could be the problem?
a quick update changed coil and starter relay , same result no spark, question could a bad resistor wire cause this problem? i've heard of people bypassing it could that help?
 

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1966 Mustang Coupe
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Check the distributor cap and rotor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Check the distributor cap and rotor.
i'm sorry i didn't put it but new cap and rotor, did a voltage check at the battery 12.73 ( i have been trying to start her with no luck so a little low) at the coil with key on 4.35 , i thought the coil should be 6-9 any thoughts ?
 

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What is condition of choke on carb? Is it an 1100?.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
What is condition of choke on carb? Is it an 1100?.
the issue i'm finding is no spark. i have replaced the coil, starter relay, distributor, cap, rotor . i have voltage of 12.5 at the battery and voltage of 3.4 at the coil. same voltage at the cap. but either no spark or really low spark. ( my in line spark detector won't even flicker, but i think those work on 6 volts)
 

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sorry I was off track on low voltage. Have you checked for spark on other cylinders? I use my timing light to clamp on to different wires to verify bad wire(s)/ no fire…while turning over or running. Points are not my favorite, my overall opinion is to update the six with duraspark. But you have invested a lot already, so chase down your issue. Maybe the pink resistor wire is in bad shape, and not flowing enough current? Have you tried bypassing ? Power coil from a different source of known voltage to see if you get it to fire?even 12 volts to coil for a short period of time won’t hurt it to see if you get spark….
 

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I had a pink resistor wire that finally gave up the ghost. Luckily I was tuning in the driveway. Car was running as I was fiddling with distributor wiring. Moving the boot end of resistor wire killed the car. I could move it around and get intermittent starting, but only a few more times, then no start no matter which way I moved it. I cut the wire back a few inches and reconnected with new eyelet and it’s working fine again. But the pink wire is now used to power my duraspark box and coil.
 

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During start, the coil should get a full battery voltage (12.8v) directly from the battery. After the car is running, the power is routed through the pink wire and reduced to 9 Volts. If you are only getting 4+ volts during run, you have a problem there. Measure it at Start and see if it jumps up to battery voltage. You can try running a direct line from the battery to the coil and see if it will start. Don’t run it long with battery voltage to the coil or you will fry the coil. (Unless you have an aftermarket 12v coil).
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
first i want to thank everyone with the ideas , still working on some of them. today i did a timing check ( the old rag in #1 trick) and when rag popped out i checked the distributor and it was on #1 , so most likely no issue there . then i even dropped the exaust off the manifold to check that and no luck. i still need to do a combustion check but i can't find a unit local for this old of a car so internet here i come. again thanks for all the help
 

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first i want to thank everyone with the ideas , still working on some of them. today i did a timing check ( the old rag in #1 trick) and when rag popped out i checked the distributor and it was on #1 , so most likely no issue there . then i even dropped the exaust off the manifold to check that and no luck. i still need to do a combustion check but i can't find a unit local for this old of a car so internet here i come. again thanks for all the help
If you have 3.4 volts at the coil, this is an electrical issue, not a mechanical one. Don’t waste type randomly changing parts. Do some more diagnosis.
 

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You should have 6-7v at the coil + with coil - grounded and key on. Thats with the 1.5 ohm pink wire resistance and a 1.5 ohm coil. As mentioned above a few times, 3.4v doesn't sound right.
 

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1965 Ford Mustang Coupe 200ci 3.3L 6 cylinder
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i'm sorry i didn't put it but new cap and rotor, did a voltage check at the battery 12.73 ( i have been trying to start her with no luck so a little low) at the coil with key on 4.35 , i thought the coil should be 6-9 any thoughts ?
try replacing the condenser. Its a cheap and easy part. See if that does anything but before that check to see if the wires are in the correct order. Its a lot easier to mix up the wires than one might think
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
ok, so after reading everything i went ahead and ordered a pink wire, now i'm just checking but what i found so far is the wire goes towards the firewall and then comes back behind the gauge cluster to the fresh air vent and then through the firewall. Is this right? just checking before i pull anymore of the cover off the loom. i might need to remove the air vent to get any more done, so any help would be great. thanks again for all the help so far.
 

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Put a full charge on your battery and double check all your grounds.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I had a pink resistor wire that finally gave up the ghost. Luckily I was tuning in the driveway. Car was running as I was fiddling with distributor wiring. Moving the boot end of resistor wire killed the car. I could move it around and get intermittent starting, but only a few more times, then no start no matter which way I moved it. I cut the wire back a few inches and reconnected with new eyelet and it’s working fine again. But the pink wire is now used to power my duraspark box and coil.
ok i got a new pink wire, do you know the best way to install? i'm sure i need to unpin the end at the ignition, but i don't see a way to do it at the 4 way plug. i traced the line up and around the steering , to the set of wires by the fresh air vent, and found the 4 way plug but it's a rubber plug and i don't see an easy way to unpin and repin, any ideas?
 

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The pink wire should end with a plug where it disconnects from the ignition switch.

Start at the ignition switch , about 6 inches back you will find the pink wire. See wire C in the pic.

Botany Organism Font Pattern Parallel


It ends prior to the firewall connector. But I believe you have to unwrap it the harness near the firewall connector to find it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Dude. Swap in a new condenser. Before you break your back putting in a new pink wire. Get a made in USA job off of eBay.

Read this page 2: Condenser fixed my 68 200 six
i have switched units, i replaced everything in my old one and i'm using a new one. i switched out the distributor 1st thing. then i started running down other options and landed on the pink wire. now just trying to figure out the best way to install the wire. pinning in the switch looks like a normal repin but the connector at the other end is a rubber block connector, i'm just trying to figure out the best way so i don't have to splice anything or at least very little. but thanks you the advice
 

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You can test if the resistor wire is bad by running a hot wire from the positive battery post to the “+” side of the coil. If it runs no different, the resistor wire isn’t the problem.

Warning: once you’ve hot wired the coil, the only way to shut the motor off is disconnecting the hot wire from the battery.
 
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