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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a recently purchased 69 Mustang with a newer 5.0L installed. It’s currently running a set of long tube headers that have a nasty tendency of cooking ignition leads. I’ve installed a set of Accell leads with ceramic boots and that all helps, however, I would still like to find a more permanent solution.

Any of you folks out there can recommend a set of headers that will fit this engine/ chassis combination and give some reasonable ignition lead clearance?

Thanks
 

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If everything works/fits with the current headers, rather than opening that can of worms, how about the sleaves that go over the boot? Kinda the old school fix and relatively cheap and easy. The come in lots of colors now. I like the old school white. Wire and Boot Sleeving | JEGS

Somewhere around here I have a set of the old asbestos ones. not for sale. I may need em again someday.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
If everything works/fits with the current headers, rather than opening that can of worms, how about the sleaves that go over the boot? Kinda the old school fix and relatively cheap and easy. The come in lots of colors now. I like the old school white. Wire and Boot Sleeving | JEGS

Somewhere around here I have a set of the old asbestos ones. not for sale. I may need em again someday.
Thanks for the feedback, however, I was hoping to find a set of headers that that will just keep the plug wires off the tubes.
I suspect the ceramic boots that I currently have should do much the same job as the sleeves you suggest.

Thanks for your suggestion.
 

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Ahh the Voice of Experience, @Mike the old grump speaks again.
And I actually clicked on this thread thinking how absolutely BAD A$$ it would be to have one of those BBQ grills that look like an engine that ignite with a distributor and 8 wires to various places around burners or under charcoal...
HMMmmm....
 

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67 coupe, 69 Sportsroof, 86 hatchback
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Before I started throwing hundreds of dollars of parts at the problem, I'd do a good tune on the car. Overly advanced timing and/or an overly rick mixture can make headers literally glow red at the heads. I used to be able to do this on command on an old motorcycle I had. Handy for when nobody has a cigarette lighter. Kind of hard on exhaust valves and ignition wires though.

After that, I'd say it depends on what heads you have. If you have GT40P heads your options are very limited. If you have any other stock iron heads then you have a number of options of brands and header styles. Ask others what they are using. I would happily recommend mine but I got them at swap meets and have no clue what neither set actually is. I had some JBA shorties that fit around the wires and all nicely but I don't really care for shorties and traded them away.
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Gents,

Thank you all for your feedback. Some good food for thought. Changing the pipes will definitely add to the workload and cost while ending up not much better off. I talked to Stan at FPA and he can make some tubes that'll work, but his lead time is quite a ways down the track.

I stumbled over an old episode of Engine Masters where they mutilate a set of headers with minimal loss in performance.....rather entertaining. I've got three problem tubes.......some "sculpting" with the backside of a ballpeen hammer might be in order.

Thanks again gents for the feedback.
 

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Ahh the Voice of Experience, @Mike the old grump speaks again.
And I actually clicked on this thread thinking how absolutely BAD A$$ it would be to have one of those BBQ grills that look like an engine that ignite with a distributor and 8 wires to various places around burners or under charcoal...
HMMmmm....
I'm not so sure about Experience. I'm just cheap and lazy.
 

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Gents,

Thank you all for your feedback. Some good food for thought. Changing the pipes will definitely add to the workload and cost while ending up not much better off. I talked to Stan at FPA and he can make some tubes that'll work, but his lead time is quite a ways down the track.

I stumbled over an old episode of Engine Masters where they mutilate a set of headers with minimal loss in performance.....rather entertaining. I've got three problem tubes.......some "sculpting" with the backside of a ballpeen hammer might be in order.

Thanks again gents for the feedback.
Hey Cat, can you confirm that you do or do not have GT40P heads? Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Hey Cat, can you confirm that you do or do not have GT40P heads? Thanks.
Neither......no bars at all on the front. However, it does have pushrod guides and the lower accessory drive bolt tapped to 5/8 NC (a pain while upgrading the alternator). It does have "5303"stamped on the face.....World Products Windsor Jr.?
 
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