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1965 2+2 Vintage Burgundy A-code C4
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm using a spray rubber undercoat product made by Bondo. It's about $4 a can at Advance Auto. I'm also going to get some of the foil material from Lowes (like you use in your attic to reflect heat) and lay it over the rubber undercoating material. I'm not sure what the final cost for this will be, or if I could have bought a one step product that would do the same and cost less.....but I can't find anything local and I don't want to wait a week or two for something else. This is available to me now and I'm on a long break from work..... I'm also making the shelf to replace the back seat. I'm cutting it from plywood and will carpet it prior to installation. I'll try to take pics as I go and put them on my webpage, in case someone else suffers from the lunacy that I do/forums/images/icons/wink.gif. More details later......
 

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I haven't seen the Bondo rubber spray coating, but a recent post on Autobodystore.Com mentioned that Duplicolor has a rubber undercoat spray for about $6-7 per can that is very good for that purpose. I got a can to try it but haven't had a chance to use it yet. If it's really rubber and cures so that it's durable and doesn't give off any vapors it should work pretty well. I don't know about the merit of the foil material though--do you think that would trap moisture?
 
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I just bought this stuff from MP, I'm going to use the single-sided type under my headliner and will eventually get the double-sided for under the carpet, behind/under rear seat/inner quarter panels, and such.

Jason
 

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Good sound deadening will cost abit more than what you would like to do......but....the end results of Rockford fosgates' "rattle trap" or Dynamat are much better and user friendly. The mat you put on will peel off in one piece should you want to remove it....

The spray on stuff....Let's not go there with the removal....

It will trap moisture as will the aluminum...

The spray should be limited to the rear wheel housings iner and outter, the tough areas to reach (the B pillars to the rear)

but the inner roof, floor pans, inner doors, firewall tranny hump and rear seat floor pans should be done with Dynamat or somethng similair.

It simply works better. Take my word for it.

As Kent Ketell says...ask me how I know.

:)
 

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1965 2+2 Vintage Burgundy A-code C4
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4,398 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Well, for better or worse, the rear is done. Thanks for the opposing posts, I appreciate them and WILL keep an eye on it. My floors were rust free and painted when I uncovered them. I sprayed the Bondo rubber undercoat directly on them, then I laid the insulation over it. It sticks somewhat, but not firmly. The insulation pretty much conformst to the curves it encounters. I'll check it periodically to see if it is trapping moisture, if so, it shouldn't be too much trouble to remove. As for now, it is definitely quieter inside and seems to help my 65 vintage A/C work better on these 97 degree days we keep having. I'm going for it for now anyway. I have the panel cut from plywood that went behind the rear seat. I'll try to cut the one's that replace the rear seat tomorrow and carpet them. I will still try to get pics to post....(if I can remember to take my digital out there!). Stay tuned, and keep the comments coming....positive OR negative....
 
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