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71 Mach1, Mcode, AOD, 4 wheel discs, Ram air, Cragars in Vermilion Fire paint.
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Guys, thanks for your thoughts to my previous post. As it turns out, I think it's a lot worse than a popped freeze plug... The plugs are all good... I jacked it up from the front to get a stand under there so I can have a better look and more green coolant started dripping out from the header at the collector union. (from the inside!)..

Anyway, I took off the radiator cap and it was sludgy (light brown) ...Then I drained the engine oil and it looked like a "Hot Choclate" ...

By now I stopped kidding myself of all illusions... I pulled the manifold off and found a hole on the block behind where the water pump sits which may not be there normally...

I need clevo guru's to tell me what they make of all this ...how? why? etc...

Also the best course of action from here?
I was hoping not to pull the heads off but if the block needs welding, then?

your thoughts guys...

Once again, I wish all VMFers here a safe and stress free Xmas...

PS, I know this sounds dumb, but can someone tell me if the heads a 4V (by looking at them)?
and also, if they're familiar with the "v" and "y" stampings on the block? Maybe Aussie cast?

http://www.users.on.net/~jimniki/VMF/jim1.jpg
http://www.users.on.net/~jimniki/VMF/jim2.jpg
http://www.users.on.net/~jimniki/VMF/jim3.jpg
http://www.users.on.net/~jimniki/VMF/jim4.jpg
http://www.users.on.net/~jimniki/VMF/jim5.jpg
 

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That is the factory oil drain back hole ;)
Did you confirm all your freeze plugs are in place?

It could be a simple case of a head gasket failure and it pressurized the crank case a bit causing the freeze plug to pop.
 

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That bullet hole is a factory hole?! Butthen again, even if it wasn't, it doesn't look like it would do anything else besides drain the oil back.
 

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It has been years since I messed with a 351C, but I think that the measurements for the 4v was 1.75 by 2.475. I cant remember the 2v. I will see if I still have my book on them and try to find the numbers. Oh and yes that is a normal hole. My old one had them also.
 

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That is weird... that doesn't look factory... oh well! lol
 

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Wow,Bummer; IMO It doesn't sound like a cracked head. It sounds more like a blown head gasket, However, it could be a cracked cylinder wall. If a head gaskets going to blow, it generally does it soon after installation. How many miles are on this rebuild? Also how far were the cylinders bored? Can you identify the cylinder thats filling your exhaust before removing that head? I'm hoping for the Head gasket! Best of Luck, and have a great Holiday anyway!

Best Wishes, J.R.
 

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on cleveland blocks the water pump plate that separates the water jacket from the oil jacket has a tendency to get pinhole rust holes in it causing your problem. carefully examine this plate for pinholes and replace as necessary. wes
 

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There will be either a 4 or a 2 stamped on the corner of the heads indicating which style head you have.

Doesn't anybody else see the bent push rods or is it an optical illusion of the picture? I suspect valve to piston contact resulting in a window in the cylinder. Were you running the stock two piece valves? Pull the heads.
 

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71 Mach1, Mcode, AOD, 4 wheel discs, Ram air, Cragars in Vermilion Fire paint.
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967 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Guys, thanks a million for chiming in there...
My next job (after Xmas and boxing day sales of course!) is to take the spark plugs out and the LH extractor off ...I think this will reveal our fault!. If it still doesn't reveal anything significant, then as some of you suggested, about the only thing left is a cylinder wall, then .... :( :( :( :( :( :( :( :( :(

Hey, maybe santa will have a reco block under the tree tomorrow morning...
Who am I kiddin'!
 

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Assuming the engine is a small block Ford, there is a photo in a book called "HOW TO REBUILD YOUR SMALL BLOCK FORD" that shows the hole. I'd replace the head and intake gaskets, start her up and let things get to operating temp. Turn it off, then carefully remove the radiator cap and use a radiator pressure gage to pressurize it to a little over your cap rating. Let it sit for about an hour and see if it holds pressure. If it doesn't, eliminate things like leaky hoses, then pressurize again. If it still doesn't hold pressure then it's time to have things magnafluxed to look for cracks.
 

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I was wondering if my eyes were playing tricks on me, too. Certainly looks like a slight bend in at least 2 of the rods to me.
 

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If those pushrods are bent pull the head on that side. More than likely the head gasket blew and put water in the cylinder. When the piston came up it probably hydrauliced and bent the push rods. Hope the head gasket is the only problem. Good luck

Ductman
 

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I dont know a damn thing about cleveland motors and my computer monitor is pretty dark but in the first pic that big hole to the right behind the dizzy is factory?? It sure dont look like it!

Happy Holidays everyone!!!
 

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Ductman said:
If those pushrods are bent pull the head on that side. More than likely the head gasket blew and put water in the cylinder. When the piston came up it probably hydrauliced and bent the push rods. Hope the head gasket is the only problem. Good luck

Ductman
The bent pushrods was the first thing I noticed in the pic. Those cylinders were probably hydro-locked. Definately time to get those heads off quick, as the cylinder walls are already rusting, especially considering the coolant in the exhaust.
 
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