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Discussion Starter #1
So I finished the addition of a clutch pedal with roller bearings to my brake pedal support. Installation should be relatively simple. Question is, anything I need to do right now that would make my initial install and adjustment of the clutch linkage easier? I'm putting the cart before the horse so to speak, since I don't have my engine or trans yet. But just thinking and planning.

I got a roller clutch linkage from @Opentracker . Real nice looking set up!
 

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1. If you're using a diaphragm clutch you won't need that big "assist" spring.
2. Your return springs are set up differently than my '68, but in mine the hardest part is reconnecting the spring from the firewall to the Z-bar because it's hidden under the brake booster. If yours's has that I'd try and do that early in the process.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
1. If you're using a diaphragm clutch you won't need that big "assist" spring.
2. Your return springs are set up differently than my '68, but in mine the hardest part is reconnecting the spring from the firewall to the Z-bar because it's hidden under the brake booster. If yours's has that I'd try and do that early in the process.
Interesting comment on the spring. I have to see exactly what I'm getting for a clutch. Didn't see different springs in the NPD catalog????

As for the other spring, I have it, just have to see exactly where and how it attaches. Haven't gotten that far yet. This automatic to standard swap is interesting.
 

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All looks good for under the dash. As per a above post the helper spring may or may not be needed. Diaphragm pressure plates generally don't need the big A$$ spring, while the original 3 finger pressure plate do. I run a 3 finger pressure plate, roller bearing clutch pivot and stock linkage and all is well after 60K miles.
 

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Interesting comment on the spring. I have to see exactly what I'm getting for a clutch. Didn't see different springs in the NPD catalog????
As for the other spring, I have it, just have to see exactly where and how it attaches. Haven't gotten that far yet. This automatic to standard swap is interesting.
Many on here have removed the "assist" spring without regret. It is designed to actually assist holding the pedal down after pushing the pedal halfway. This was necessary (or at least helpful) with the three lever clutch pressure plates that have a very high pedal resistance.
 
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You're going to have to disassemble the pedal assembly to get it in. It'll help or you'll need to remove the screws that hold the round fresh air duct.

The big spring.... I didn't put it in when I did my swap. I did however use a spring there just to keep the rattles away. One of my winter projects was actually to install the big spring. I'm running a Ford Motorsport King Cobra clutch kit, it was free, it's a little stiffer then my old Rockauto close out special on my old motor. It does make it a little easier but not a whole lot. If you do use it, to install remove the instrument cluster and remove 2 of the 3 bolts holding the upper spring mount. There isn't enough room to hook the spring on, you need to be able to rotate the bracket. Once on, put the bolts in and tighten up. Now on the pedal stop. There is a carrage bolt with a nut. Take the nut and stop off. Now you can hook the spring on easily. Once done, push the pedal to the floor. It will over center and stay on the floor. Reinstall the stop and pull the pedal up.

The neutral safety wiring. The wiring has plugs under the dash, you can simply redo the plugs and bypass the switch wiring.

Reverse back up switch. The wiring comes up just behind the shifter opening on the tunnel. You will see a recess with a dimple, that's where you drill.

Speedometer cable. It goes a completely different way of you're using a Toploader. The cable no longer goes through the spot where the C4 cable goes. Now it goes through the trans tunnel near the gas pedal. You will also need a LH pitch speedometer driven gear. The C4 has a RH pitch.

I made my own clutch linkage with rod ends. Super easy and cheap.

The upper clutch pedal rod comes through by the master cylinder. You'll need to unbolt the master cylinder for better access

739731


I didn't know there was a dimple that locates the speedometer cable. I made a educated guess. My finger is pointing to the correct location.
739730


739732


739733
 

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1966 Mustang Hardtop 289 4 Speed
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You're going to have to disassemble the pedal assembly to get it in. It'll help or you'll need to remove the screws that hold the round fresh air duct.

The big spring.... I didn't put it in when I did my swap. I did however use a spring there just to keep the rattles away. One of my winter projects was actually to install the big spring. I'm running a Ford Motorsport King Cobra clutch kit, it was free, it's a little stiffer then my old Rockauto close out special on my old motor. It does make it a little easier but not a whole lot. If you do use it, to install remove the instrument cluster and remove 2 of the 3 bolts holding the upper spring mount. There isn't enough room to hook the spring on, you need to be able to rotate the bracket. Once on, put the bolts in and tighten up. Now on the pedal stop. There is a carrage bolt with a nut. Take the nut and stop off. Now you can hook the spring on easily. Once done, push the pedal to the floor. It will over center and stay on the floor. Reinstall the stop and pull the pedal up.

The neutral safety wiring. The wiring has plugs under the dash, you can simply redo the plugs and bypass the switch wiring.

Reverse back up switch. The wiring comes up just behind the shifter opening on the tunnel. You will see a recess with a dimple, that's where you drill.

Speedometer cable. It goes a completely different way of you're using a Toploader. The cable no longer goes through the spot where the C4 cable goes. Now it goes through the trans tunnel near the gas pedal. You will also need a LH pitch speedometer driven gear. The C4 has a RH pitch.

I made my own clutch linkage with rod ends. Super easy and cheap.

The upper clutch pedal rod comes through by the master cylinder. You'll need to unbolt the master cylinder for better access

View attachment 739731

I didn't know there was a dimple that locates the speedometer cable. I made a educated guess. My finger is pointing to the correct location.
View attachment 739730

View attachment 739732

View attachment 739733
Tom thanks for pointing out the proper locations to drill I'll need this info.
 

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You're going to have to disassemble the pedal assembly to get it in. It'll help or you'll need to remove the screws that hold the round fresh air duct.

The big spring.... I didn't put it in when I did my swap. I did however use a spring there just to keep the rattles away. One of my winter projects was actually to install the big spring. I'm running a Ford Motorsport King Cobra clutch kit, it was free, it's a little stiffer then my old Rockauto close out special on my old motor. It does make it a little easier but not a whole lot. If you do use it, to install remove the instrument cluster and remove 2 of the 3 bolts holding the upper spring mount. There isn't enough room to hook the spring on, you need to be able to rotate the bracket. Once on, put the bolts in and tighten up. Now on the pedal stop. There is a carrage bolt with a nut. Take the nut and stop off. Now you can hook the spring on easily. Once done, push the pedal to the floor. It will over center and stay on the floor. Reinstall the stop and pull the pedal up.

The neutral safety wiring. The wiring has plugs under the dash, you can simply redo the plugs and bypass the switch wiring.

Reverse back up switch. The wiring comes up just behind the shifter opening on the tunnel. You will see a recess with a dimple, that's where you drill.

Speedometer cable. It goes a completely different way of you're using a Toploader. The cable no longer goes through the spot where the C4 cable goes. Now it goes through the trans tunnel near the gas pedal. You will also need a LH pitch speedometer driven gear. The C4 has a RH pitch.

I made my own clutch linkage with rod ends. Super easy and cheap.

The upper clutch pedal rod comes through by the master cylinder. You'll need to unbolt the master cylinder for better access

View attachment 739731

I didn't know there was a dimple that locates the speedometer cable. I made a educated guess. My finger is pointing to the correct location.
View attachment 739730

View attachment 739732

View attachment 739733
The NSS is something I’ve been thinking about as I plan my own T5 from C4 swap. Why can’t you just remove the NSS wiring from the harness directly and wire the car as it were a 4 speed? As far as I can tell, the dash harnesses are the same. I always hear about bypassing the NSS, but wouldn’t it be cleaner to remove it altogether?
 

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The NSS is something I’ve been thinking about as I plan my own T5 from C4 swap. Why can’t you just remove the NSS wiring from the harness directly and wire the car as it were a 4 speed? As far as I can tell, the dash harnesses are the same. I always hear about bypassing the NSS, but wouldn’t it be cleaner to remove it altogether?
I'll have to revisit it and see exactly what I did. I did remove the whole NSS. Basically I unplugged the connectors from the factory harness then joined the two factory harness plugs into each other under the dash.
 

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I'll have to revisit it and see exactly what I did. I did remove the whole NSS. Basically I unplugged the connectors from the factory harness then joined the two factory harness plugs into each other under the dash.
I'd be interested to hear what you come up with. My car needs a new dash harness anyway, but I don't remember seeing different ones for a manual vs automatic car - same for the engine harness. I don't want any kind of NSS on my transmission and was planning to wire it as factory, which I assumed meant basically doing nothing at all with the NSS portion of the harness.
 

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I'd be interested to hear what you come up with. My car needs a new dash harness anyway, but I don't remember seeing different ones for a manual vs automatic car - same for the engine harness. I don't want any kind of NSS on my transmission and was planning to wire it as factory, which I assumed meant basically doing nothing at all with the NSS portion of the harness.
I remember it being very simple
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Anyone know if you're doing a T5 swap, can you keep the speedo in the standard C4 route? Do I need to reroute the speedo? Also I was wondering about the NSS. Does the T5 need that or can I bypass it? I learned to always push the clutch in before I start the car. I never start it in neutral.
 

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Anyone know if you're doing a T5 swap, can you keep the speedo in the standard C4 route? Do I need to reroute the speedo? Also I was wondering about the NSS. Does the T5 need that or can I bypass it? I learned to always push the clutch in before I start the car. I never start it in neutral.
I've not actually done it yet, just been trying to do lots of reading in preparation, but - I believe that the C4 speedo cable is relatively untouched, since it enters on the same side of the transmission on a T5 as a C4.

The T5 doesn't need a NSS - in fact, the transmission doesn't even have one. Late model Mustangs used a switch on the clutch pedal itself instead of the transmission so that the clutch had to be depressed before it would start. The T5 does have a "neutral sensing switch" on some which I know some people have used as a NSS, but it's purpose was related to cruise control and not a safety measure for starting the car. My T5 builder specifically used a later case without that port even because I knew I was going to have no NSS stuff of any kind of my transmission.
 
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Discussion Starter #16
I've not actually done it yet, just been trying to do lots of reading in preparation, but - I believe that the C4 speedo cable is relatively untouched, since it enters on the same side of the transmission on a T5 as a C4.

The T5 doesn't need a NSS - in fact, the transmission doesn't even have one. Late model Mustangs used a switch on the clutch pedal itself instead of the transmission so that the clutch had to be depressed before it would start. The T5 does have a "neutral sensing switch" on some which I know some people have used as a NSS, but it's purpose was related to cruise control and not a safety measure for starting the car. My T5 builder specifically used a later case without that port even because I knew I was going to have no NSS stuff of any kind of my transmission.
Got it. I'll bypass it under the dash
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Many on here have removed the "assist" spring without regret. It is designed to actually assist holding the pedal down after pushing the pedal halfway. This was necessary (or at least helpful) with the three lever clutch pressure plates that have a very high pedal resistance.
So what exactly does that spring do? It doesn't return the pedal back to it's resting spot? I ask because the damn thing just flew off when I moved the clutch a bit and took a few chunks out of my finger an thumb! 5 band-aids later and I'm all bandaged up. Luckily I don't have to operate until next monday!

Thinking I'll leave it off. If thats not there to return the clutch pedal, what pushes the pedal back? The spring attached to the clutch fork and the clutch springs?
 

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It's sometimes called an over-center spring. Push the pedal in over half way and it helps reduce leg pressure to disengage the clutch, let off the pedal and once past the half way point it helps return the pedal.
 

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So what exactly does that spring do? It doesn't return the pedal back to it's resting spot? I ask because the damn thing just flew off when I moved the clutch a bit and took a few chunks out of my finger an thumb! 5 band-aids later and I'm all bandaged up. Luckily I don't have to operate until next monday!

Thinking I'll leave it off. If thats not there to return the clutch pedal, what pushes the pedal back? The spring attached to the clutch fork and the clutch springs?
As noted, it is an "over center" spring. Hard to explain verbally. In the attachment the spring tries to hold the lever in place on either side. The "assist" spring is designed that way - it either helps holds the pedal at the top or at the bottom. The purpose is to assist holding the pedal at the bottom (depressed) to counter the heavy 3-lever clutch plates when you're sitting at a stop. The other, much smaller, springs in the Z-bar/rod clutch system will return the pedal to the top without the "assist" spring. You can replace it with a smaller spring if you don't feel comfortable removing it entirely. However, if you have a heavy 3-lever clutch I'd think about keeping it.
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