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No, you will want to run a relay. Fuel pumps can draw some amperage. Is this for EFI or carb? I suppose for carb, you would just run the relay to the ignition switch. For EFI, the computer will need to control the relay.
 

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Don't forget the intertial cutoff switch so the pump doesn't keep pumping in an accident.
 

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Yeah, find a switched + to trigger the relay, and then of course a direct 12v from the battery to the relay, and from the relay to the pump (And as ozarks said, an inertia switch inline.. Some people run it inline with the relay, I'm going inline with the pump. The wiring seems robust imo).
 

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I put my relay in the trunk close to the electric pump. This was I know the pump will get full 12v power.

I had an existing 8 guauge wire running to the trunk from my previous sound system install that I used for the 12v battery to the relay.

I then ran a 12v switched source to the trunk. The 12v switched went to the inertia switch then out from the inertia switch to the relay. One wire to feed the pump and then a ground.

Also, included is a switch near the dash in between the 12v switched source. This way I can turn off the pump if needed manually.
 

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keep the inertia switch on the trigger wire for the relay. They are not designed to handle the current the fuel pump draws. It will operate, but eventually fail.
 

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Some schematics tell me it's inline, some schematics tell me it's inline with the relay (The Inertia switch, that is).. Seems to me it should be fine. The wiring is pretty beefy, and although Ihave not cracked one open to look at the contacts, 10amps give or take at 14 volts is not all that much.
 
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