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The installation instructions on my new bolt on (will also be welded on) subframe connectors says , in part,"With rear of subframe connector bolted to the rear subframe, the front subframe connector pocket should be over the rear of the front subframe. Jack up rear end assembly and support with jackstands so that the weight of the car is supported by the rear end assembly in the rear and the front subframe in the front."
Then you go on to drill the two holes for the front of the connectors, blah, blah, blah. My car is on jackstands, NO suspension, front or rear, just the shell. My question is, why not install them now, on my bare shell?? Should I wait to do them when I get the rear end back in??? TIA guys & gals. Ken
 

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Ditto.
 

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If the body is "square", I think you can weld them in on a bare shell. If anything, it keeps the body from bending under it's own load.

The shop manual has dimensions to check your body. The best would be to put it on a body jig and then weld them in .
 

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There are alot of mixed opinions on this, I think a few months ago someone has posted on this too. I think there was a few guys that had said they had welded them with their shell on a rotissere. I personaly dont think it will make big of difference as long as your body is pretty straight.
 

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I would do it with the suspension in place so the chassis is properly loaded.
I disagree... and I'll add that this talk of "loading" the suspension is as much of a myth as the idea that removing a thermostat causes engine coolant to circulate too quickly to remove heat. How are you going to ensure that the suspesion is "loaded" with equal weight side to side? But rather than go on I'll simply direct you to this earlier post. Whatever wisdom I have is in the several responses I made in that thread. But if you scroll down to GypsyR's response you'll read a particularly persuasive argument.

Make sure the car is level and support it on the subframes.

- Gord
 

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Subframe connectors are not installed to fix any sagging or damage that has happened in the last 40 years. They are installed to tie the front subframe to the back subframe to prevent flex when driving. Loaded or unloaded, the outcome should be the same. The only drawback I can see to installing unloaded is there might be the most miniscule change in the alignment when the car is taken off the stands.
 

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I just got done putting mine in my empty body shell. I fabricated my own which are 10 times stronger than the over counter variety. I've got it on a roll around body jig. With all of the weight off of the car (engine, suspension, interior, etc out) the body is fairly stable. (except verts without door braces) Unless you have a rusted body with a weakened structure there is very little to be concerned about. If you TRIED to move the rear frame rails closer or farther away from the front frame rails intentionally, you would have a hard time doing it. As long as the body is level you should have no problem installing them. Also, the smaller bolt in kind are really not stout enough to hold the body out of shape by themselves. If they were, people with rotten inner and outer rockers would just have to slap a pair of these in to make their car strong again. LOL So, don't sweat it, put them in, weld them and forgetabboutit.
 

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It is of course that you don't jack up the car in the wrong places when welding them in, so that you weld them on a body that is twisted, because it is supported unevenly.
 

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I'd say just be sure you support evenly at the torque boxes at all four corners and weld em' up.
 
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