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Discussion Starter #1
Today, I installed my electric fuel pump. What a pain in the a**. I wanted to limit rubber fuel line to a small piece coming from the tank to my fuel filter then steel line and fittings all the way. Why wouldn't holley put something in the pipe threads of the pump and regulator so you can use flared lines? Rather that hunt all over the place for flared fittings. Well, other than wasting a whole day on it, I guess it looks pretty good.
 

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3/8" NPT to #6 or #8 (preferable) JIC or SAE flare is a pretty common fitting around my shop.....

But, then again, I work on hydraulic equipment for a living..*G*

After many years of experience, I never count on anything coming with fittings, especially if it says "race" on the box...*G*

Glad you got bluie in there....mine's 20 years old now and still going strong...good, basic, relatively inexpensive fuel pump...

Where did you put the regulator and fuel filter? And, did you interlock the control switch with the ignition?



Pat
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Discussion Starter #3
I put the fuel filter between the tank and pump and the regulator on the left fender inside the engine compartment. I haven't started the wiring yet. What do you recommend? It says in the instructions to wire it to the oil pressure switch but unfortunately my oil pressure switch is now a mechanical guage. Sorry to be a pain but one more quick question the pump says its set at 14psi and the regulator is adjustable from 4.5 to 9 psi. I'm assuming that means the most pressure I will get with the regulator installed is 9psi? Which would be just about right.
 

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A little late now, I'm sure, but for my fuel lines (Holley Red Barrel), I just used rubber lines from the tank to the pump (fuel filter in between), and from the hard line at the left fender wall to the carb. I used fuel injectoin line and then wrapped in steel braiding. I'm sure your's looks better, though.

I would assume that your regulator will only put out 9 PSI. Did the regulator come with the pump or did you buy it seperate? (I don't recall that the Blue Barrel came with one). I run the Red Barrel, so that I don't need a regulator.



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You'll always get what you've always got

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I think I'd leave the low oil pressure for the driver to notice....there is a driver in your car, yes? *G*

Interlock the fuel pump switch so you can't run the pump inadvertantly unless the ignition is keyed up...My ARC panel lets me momentarily run the pump (by holding finger pressure on the switch) with the main ignition off but won't let the pump run unattended with it off...

For your application, keep the pressure between 5-7 psi.... and put the regulator as close to the carb as possible....see this picture of the setup on my race car for the setup preferred by most racers...

The purpose is to have high pressure fuel getting as close to the carb as possible, combatting the effects of temperature and G forces, then being reduced to a pressure the carb can handle...
Ideally, the system would incorporate a return line from an appropriately configured regulator with the waste fuel being returned to the tank....a bit much for a street setup (or my bracket car) but it's almost standard equipment in most race cars now...

Pat
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In the good ole days, the Blues always came with the regulator...

I think they still do but haven't bought one in years...

Hey, don't see you on the Knott's list....not up to that 7 hour drive, eh?? *G*

Pat
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Discussion Starter #7
The regulator still comes with the pump!
Thanks for the tips.
Will 9psi cause be any problems with the carb(750 holley double) other than re-setting the floats?
 

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Personally, I'd kick it down to about 8 PSI, unless you have some real need for more. Most floats can only withold about 8-8.5 PSI. The Red barrel I run is suppossed to put out a constant 8. I run it with no regulator and have no problems, but know that Edelbrock (I have a 1406) says to not exceed 8, and I'm right at the limit with no regulator.

At 9 PSI, you may blow past the float needles. Unless you're turning some real high RPMS, you'll probably never need over 8 PSI.

If you always do what you've always done,
You'll always get what you've always got

http://www.classic-mustang.net/johnpro
 

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HeHe, I'd love to go, but my car has some serious paint issues right now so it won't be seeing any shows for a few months, and it just seems I've got so much going on during weekends right now, that I don't think I can get away. The Sacramento Area Mustang Club is planning a cruise to Knott's, but I really doubt I'll make it this year ... maybe next year.

If you always do what you've always done,
You'll always get what you've always got

http://www.classic-mustang.net/johnpro
 

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Hope the swap goes well.

I have to replace my dying Mallory pump with a blue Holley before I head out to Knotts. Hopefully it won't be too much louder than the Holley. If you guys see a red 66 on the side of I-10 in late April its probably me! LOL

[color:black]1966</font color=black> [color:red]V8 Coupe</font color=red>
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National Pipe Thread....

It's a tapered thread....

Sometimes the same basic thing is seen as NPTS, which supposedly has better sealing characteristics (the S stands for seal or sealing, or so I've been led to believe *G*)

I would guess they're leftovers from the old steam days....

Generally, in Schedule 40 pipe (most common), the size indicates the nominal ID of the pipe....as the Sced. # gets larger (80, 160, etc) the wall thickness gets thicker and the ID grows smaller...OD remains the same...that's so everything can still be threaded to standard NPT OD threads...

Hope that helps....

Pat
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Yeah, I know the feeling....

We're just going down in Renee's Acura since she has to work part of Saturday anyway....we'll probably be staying with some of her friends in Yorba Linda...

I'm just going mainly to meet everyone and see what's new in Ponyland....I'm not really a car show person...I prefer Mustangs with the hood down and going fast...*G*

It's not a crime to be seen without your Mustang, at least in my book....

Pat
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I run the race car regulator at 6 psi without complaint....Ancient Holley 780 3310 model...

The max pressure you can run depends on a number of factors....needle material, float type and bowl design...

Hey, if I can run low elevens on 6 psi, do you think more pressure will make you go quicker? Darn, why didn't I think of that...*G*

BTW, changing the float level setting won't adequately compensate for excessive fuel pressure...it'll just screw up the required metering of fuel....I can only imagine the gyrations in there during a run and the fuel manages to get metered fairly accurately....at normal pressure...



Pat
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Discussion Starter #15
Actually, I don't have a fuel pressure guage so I thought if left it where it was pre-set I would know its at 9psi. But I guess I'll have to figure a way to set it at 6psi without a guage? or I'll have to go buy one of those as well!
 

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I used a small diameter 15 psi guage from my local hydraulic supplier...cost around 8.00 IIRC...left it permanently mounted on the regulator so I could verify operation at a glance....

Pat
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Discussion Starter #17
Great idea, I finally got a break on something. I bought one of the guages your talking about from Perfomance Improvements $13.00cdn (I'm not complaining) I figured another $100-150 again for an Autometer guage and then hook up! I'll set mine for 6psi. Thanks again!
 

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Take it from someone who knows....Holley Blues are noisy!...

Make sure you isolation mount it with true vibration isolators and use a non metalic connection for the suction and pressure side (3-4" of rubber fuel hose will do) if noise is likely to be a concern...

FWIW, I could hear the Holley pump over the open headers at idle when I ran uncorked in the past...It's positively deafening (exageration) now that the car is corked up...
Mine is solid mounted to the rear chassis tubing and uses all metallic lines....worst possible installation for noise control...

Pat
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