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Discussion Starter #21
Yep, I made sure to go counter-clockwise. I'm also not reading any rpm on my tach (luckily oil pressure is good) and I hooked it up directly to the gray wire on the distributor that's supposed to provide the signal.

The crimps are all good in terms of holding onto the wire, but with uncrimping and recrimping I'm wondering if damage was done.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Ok, I think I may have found the issue. I still have the pink resistance wire running from my ignition to the firewall. I've been reading about bypassing it on here and have a couple questions:

-I'd like to tap directly from the red/green bullet connector at the ignition switch to right where the pink wire meets the firewall connector. Because it's a resistance wire, I'm assuming that 1" or so of wire won't give an appreciable amount of resistance to prevent full voltage?
-If that solution doesn't work, I was thinking of routing a wire from that bullet connector and tapping directly to the red/green wire in the engine bay. My only concern is that looking at the wiring diagram, the brown wire to the starter solenoid would be bypassed. Any way to account for that?

Let me know if I'm on track or still way off on this.
 

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Discussion Starter #24 (Edited)
I decided to run a new wire and splice it to the pink wire just before the firewall connector. Any issues with that?
 

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Discussion Starter #26
For some reason, none of my splices are working and the pink wire keeps pulling out. Splices work on other wires no problem though. Thoughts?
 

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If by "splice", you mean a solder joint, You can't solder to nichrome resistor wire. You need a mechanical joint, I'd use a butt splice, or some sort of connector.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
So I just bypassed that all and connected it directly to the wire in the engine bay. Car started up, runs great and the timing light works, too. FML but at least it’s solved, thank you everyone for the help.
 

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I bypassed my resistance wire a long time ago by running a brand new wire from right before the resistor wire at the ignition a drilled a new small at the firewall near the plug. If I had it to do all over again. I would have just connected the original ignition wire to a relay to get 12 volts from the battery. Left the pink wire connected. No splicing under the dash, etc.. I didn't know about and understood relays like I do now.
 
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