Vintage Mustang Forums banner
  • Hey everyone! Enter your ride HERE to be a part of this month's Ride of the Month Challenge!

1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
638 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I want to apologize to everyone reading this post up front. I know this topic has been covered MANY times here in the forum but with the switch to the new forum software, I personally find it very difficult to perform a targeted search and find the info I am looking for. Not trying to bash all of the great work the admins/moderators have done over the years but this new software is less than desirable to me. I have been a supporting member here for over 8 years now and have always found this to be "the" place to go to get the answers I need but might have to find a more "user friendly" platform going forward.

On to my question...I have a completely reworked (by Mustang Barn) distributor that has the Pertronix Ignitor module in it that I am finally getting around to installing. I purchased the recommended Flame Thrower coil to go with it and am now looking for guidance specific to my car on the best approach to get the distributor properly wired. I know the distributor requires a full 12V feed, looking for what others have done to accommodate this with regards to the existing original wiring in the car.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
13,214 Posts
You have a few options:
1) Disconnect the Pink wire from the short pigtail at the ignition switch and run a standard wire from there to the firewall. Scotchlock the new wire onto the Pink wire at the firewall connector. The short distance that the electricity must pass through the Pink wire will be inconsequential.
2) Remove the Pink wire from the firewall connector and run a standard wire in it's place. A little work is required to get the Pink wire out of the firewall connector.
3) Leave the Pink wire in place and use it to activate a relay that provides power from the battery to the coil. The 6-8V that comes out of the Pink wire is enough to activate a Bosch style relay.
4) Others?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
250 Posts
They didn't give you any docs for the new ignition? I put an ignitor on my 66 probably 20 years ago, it went on in a few minutes. Now, a whole distributor is a different story, of course, but the ignitor part should be easy. I remember being called out at a car show for having 2 wires to my coil from the distributor, and I wrapped them in black electrical tape to hide them after the show. Have you looked on the Pertronics website? I'll look to see if the is something to help you.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
638 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
They didn't give you any docs for the new ignition? I put an ignitor on my 66 probably 20 years ago, it went on in a few minutes. Now, a whole distributor is a different story, of course, but the ignitor part should be easy. I remember being called out at a car show for having 2 wires to my coil from the distributor, and I wrapped them in black electrical tape to hide them after the show. Have you looked on the Pertronics website? I'll look to see if the is something to help you.
Thanks for the reply. I am replacing an entire distributor with the replacement having the Ignitor already installed. It was a spare part that came with the car when I purchased it and I had it re-worked by The Mustang Barn. And yes...I have looked at the Pertronix website and the documentation they provide but was looking for application specific guidance from this forum from people that have made the switch on a 65/66.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
509 Posts
I originally did what awhtx said "3) Leave the Pink wire in place and use it to activate a relay that provides power from the battery to the coil. The 6-8V that comes out of the Pink wire is enough to activate a Bosch style relay." You can either run a separate wire from the relay to the coil or do what I did, I put a bullet connector in the stock coil wire and extended it to the relay. This came in handy when I pulled out the Pertronix because of all the failed ignitor 2 modules....sorry, had to throw that in.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
549 Posts
I thought Pertronix stuff only worked on other people's cars. ???

Seriously, an ignition fired relay is the best option.
 
  • Like
Reactions: kenash

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,426 Posts
An alternative.........,if one plans on installing future devices requiring a "switced" 12Vs, then add a 4-6 pos. fused terminal strip in the engine compartment. Pull your power from there to wherever?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
330 Posts
I did it differently. I found the start of the pink wire near the ignition switch where it is standard wire before becoming resistor wire. I removed the insulation there and soldered a new 12V ignition wire into it and ran it parallel to the pink wire under the hood. So there is now the resistor wire with the factory 90* coil connector that fits on the coil and next to it the new 12V wire to the coil. I taped the two wires together.
So I now have a choice at the distributor how to wire the ignition. I can run OE points, condenser and coil using the resistor wire or run the Pertronix I, II or III igniter and coil using the new 12V wire, but just run one wire at a time and don't use the unused lead as an extra under hood power source.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,245 Posts
I tapped the pink wire right where it comes out of the ignition and ran my own wire from there using the below wire tap connectors. 12 years and no issues.
739225
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,064 Posts
Assuming you are using a Pertronix 1 I would say use the original resisted coil wire. Thats what I went back to after reading this thread. https://www.vintage-mustang.com/thr...th-a-pertronix-1.1161412/page-2#post-10219742. I have a Pertronix 1 with a Flame Thrower coil and it revs to 6400 rpm and starts right up on the fist crank using the original resisted wire! This seems to be a manufactured problem as a result of the vagueness Pertronix directions.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
37,687 Posts
I want to apologize to everyone reading this post up front. I know this topic has been covered MANY times here in the forum but with the switch to the new forum software, I personally find it very difficult to perform a targeted search and find the info I am looking for. Not trying to bash all of the great work the admins/moderators have done over the years but this new software is less than desirable to me. I have been a supporting member here for over 8 years now and have always found this to be "the" place to go to get the answers I need but might have to find a more "user friendly" platform going forward.

On to my question...I have a completely reworked (by Mustang Barn) distributor that has the Pertronix Ignitor module in it that I am finally getting around to installing. I purchased the recommended Flame Thrower coil to go with it and am now looking for guidance specific to my car on the best approach to get the distributor properly wired. I know the distributor requires a full 12V feed, looking for what others have done to accommodate this with regards to the existing original wiring in the car.
Leave all your existing wiring connected just the way it is. Connect the BLACK wire from the Pertronix Ignitor to the coil- post. Connect the RED wire from the Pertronix Ignitor to a new piece of 14AWG primary wire and bring it back to the firewall plug, and attach an uninsulated male bullet connector. If you disconnect the plug you'll find a "blank" (unused) pin. Drill out the rubber and using some butyl sealant glue the connector in place. On the passenger compartment do the same... a new piece of 14AWG wire with a FEMALE bullet on the end, glued opposite the one you just installed. Bring that new wire in to the "C" post of the ignition switch and install with a ring terminal. FWIW, I like to use UNINSULATED connectors, crimped AND soldered to the wire and sealed with shrink tube.

If you don't want to be anal-retentive, like me, you can connect the Pertronix RED wire to the blower motor feed (if you have a 3 speed blower) or, using a BOSCH-type relay use a switched ignition source as a trigger to provide the 12V required. There are a few switched ignition sources in the engine compartment, such as the afore-mentioned blower motor feed, the ignition feed to the voltage regulator ("I" or "S", depending on whether you have a warning lamp or ammeter) or you can also drill a hole in the firewall and use a grommet.
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top