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Discussion Starter #1
It's a puzzle with no answer.. You can't fit it in from the bottom, because the top of the torque box has to go on top of the frame rail, and the top of the torque box is bent at a 90degree angle.. And you can't fit it in from the top, because the bottom is much wider as to go underneath the frame rail.. I mean, I could hack off the rocker and do it, but thats not really an option.. :) anyone done it before?
 

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A friend put one in on the RH side of my 67. We had to split the box, drilled out the spot welds where it was originally put togather. He then installed the top of the torque box and then the lower part. Also had to cut into the toe board for the lip on the top of the box.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
hmm.. thats not the answer I was looking for.. :) I was hoping that it didn't have to come to that.
 

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Nice to see one of my how-tos revisited.
I hope the fact that I changed servers so the pictures moved doesn't cause too much confusion ;)
 

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Sorry, Hass to be separated. When I did mine the floor and the toe board were out. All I did was drill out the welds allong the top of the box and left the ones in the bottom. Then I 'bent' it appart to get over and under the rail, welded it back together and to the rail and rocker.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I'm kind of confused as how you did it..Did you go up from the bottom, or down through the top? You said you left the floor in it, so I assume from the bottom.. But on the 67.. there is a piece on the t-box that goes underthe floor, but over the diagonal frame rail? I see no way to put that in there without cutting SOMETHING up? Correct me if I'm wrong, as I hope I am. Thank you all!
 

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This is a front t-box install just so there is no confusion in case you are doing rears ;).
I used a 67 box. The t-box pictured is laying as it installs in the car. The top part you see is what faces the floor. You can see the jut out where it overlaps the lower sub frame sitting on the floor and the other side faces the tire. The box is designed to slide up between the sub frame and outer rocker, there is nothing that 'lips' over making the upper demension wider than what the factory clearance should be.
http://www.dodgestang.com/images/box.jpg

It was inserted from the bottom. Start the box slightly forward of final resting position (like 1/4 inch since there is the front frame rail lip you are also trying to sneek past) so the front weld lip does not catch on the way up, once it is past the point were it would catch slam it back to the 2 lips are touching. Then you can wail away to get the box all the way up...it is not easy, and the fact that the car is 40 yrs old and the clearances may have shifted, doesn't make it any easier.

http://www.dodgestang.com/images/dsboxinstall6.jpg
The upper part of the box that goes against the floor one side has a lip that is bent at 90 degrees to it will sit Parrallel to the outer rocker not lip over it. This rests against the outer rocker just north of the floor, so we had to cut the floor here:
http://www.dodgestang.com/images/DSboxinstall2.jpg

Right were the up down meets the floor board.
In this picture you can see the bent lip poking through the floor board and the weld:
http://www.dodgestang.com/images/dsboxinstall8.jpg

The t-box is a VERY tight fit. The PO on my car has welded all kind of crazy metal on the car to stiffen the subframe which had to be removed before we could even lip the box lightly into place. We also used the grinder to remove about 1/16 of inch in 1 spot to get it up and in easier. The t-box in a very important part, and IMO becasue of the way it is designed not something you want to pull apart and reassemble in place. That defeats the purpose. Because we were able to get the t-boxes with only using the wieght of the car as leverage to squeeze it into the space, we KNOW the car is pretty darn true and straight. If you pull the box apart and then reammeble you don't know that and in all honesty may just be stiffining up something that might need to actually be repaired.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
thanks for the help.. what I'm having problems with, is not the rocker side, but the subframe side.. If you are looking down at the diagonal subframe from the seat, imagining there is no floor there.. The subframe It looks like a rectangular tube with only 3 sides.. bottom, and sides.. but on the top, it flares out about an inch, 90degrees on each side (as in, instead of forming the 'top', it flares out the other ways).. (god I'm horrible at explaining things, it probably doesn't even make sense)

Now, the torque box has a 90degree flare that is supposed to sit overtop of that, yet underneath the floor.. The floor is out, so thats not a problem.. But, if you push it up from the bottom, it is such a tight fit between the subframe and the rocker, that there is no way to shift it 1" so you can get the piece of the torque box to go overtop of the subframe.. Thats what I can't figure out. Thanks again!
 

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I did mine the same as "dodgestang" from the wheel well in. My rust was much more extensive then his therefore you can look at some pictures of the torque, floor and subframe replacement for the convertible if that is helpful http://www.ont-home-health.on.ca/mustangs/dec18/home.htm The boxes actually went in fairly easy, except for the sweat, tears, cuts etc. :)
 

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Are you sure you are trying to put the t-box in the correct spot ;)
http://users.zoominternet.net/~dodgeram/pstorquebox03.jpg

Perhaps when the old floor was removed, someone left a lot of extra metal to act like 'tabs' to make the new floor installation go easier. I highly recommend you snap a few pictures and let images take up where the description lets off.
http://users.zoominternet.net/~dodgeram/pstorquebox02.jpg

Also come to live chat tonight after 9pm EST (linked from the front page) and we will see if we can help work this out)
 

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hey this picture shows some helpful info
http://www.ont-home-health.on.ca/mustangs/dec18/new_frame_and_floor/images/65C5OF17NEWFRAME%26FLOOR.jpg

As you see, the box doesn't go over that area which I think you are refering to, it stays under it.
 
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Hi all,

Well I’m new here I can't hide that my post count will give that away quickly. I have just started to install torque boxes in my 65 FB this past weekend. I had to trim some on the top left side of the passenger torque box to get it to fit. This top part hangs over the top of the front frame rail. I purchased my torque boxes from NPD and they will not fit unless you trim them or split them. I hope this helps.

-Neil
 

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We are assuming you have a coupe or FB? Note, I couldn't get my TB's in around my inner rockers of my Vert. I REALLY didn't want to take them apart or warp them severely...I rather split them to get them installed and then welded them back together. AS for a coupe/FB, it can be done with it in tact.

Mine has a "connector" piece welded under teh frame and TB so they butt together. TB OUT TB installed

Also check out the Mustang monthly 2000 article on adding one to your car to see what it is like on a coupe/FB
 

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In just had to slit the floor board along the outside edge and then I just jacked them in place and welded them in. I didn't have more than an hour in the job. This was on my 65 fastback.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
this is a 67 fastback.. Mine were also purchased from NPD.. beginning to look like they have to be split.. I'll post pics tomorrow so you guys can see what I'm yippin about.
 
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