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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am going to replace my stock Autolite 2100 and stock intake manifold. I have a stock 289 C code, and need specific advice. I am going to attempt this myself, and I would like opinions on what combinations meet my criteria. In terms of importance, here are the most to least important factors. I want quality parts that lead to an easy starting car, a reliable driver,ease of installation of parts, reasonable fuel consumption, increased performance, and good value. I am willing to pay more for quality and reliability.

I am interested in Edlebrock components, but am willing to consider others. I would like to have opinions on the Edelbrock Performer vs Performer RPM vs Weiand Stealth intake manifolds. Also, any opinions about the 500 CFM Edelbrock carburetor vs the 500 CFM Summit carburetor. I know there are many, many opinions, help me tie this down.
 

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I am a Performer RPM fan as far as intakes go. Engine Masters did a dyno test awhile back and the RPM was better than the regular Performer pretty much everywhere. It also did better than the Stealth until it got to about 5,500 RPM. Above 5,500 the performance of the Stealth an RPM was about identical. The RPM is the red line



I think carbs are much more about tuning preference. I have had a 600cfm Holley 1850 for 37 years and it has worked well. It's hard to argue against a Summit for a stock/mild build as people seem to like them.

I put ZERO value in the concept of buying all from one "brand". It's not like Edelbrock designed a carb to work with their intake. Their carb is based on a carb design (Carter) they were able to buy.
 

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I am a Performer RPM fan as far as intakes go. Engine Masters did a dyno test awhile back and the RPM was better than the regular Performer pretty much everywhere. It also did better than the Stealth until it got to about 5,500 RPM. Above 5,500 the performance of the Stealth an RPM was about identical. The RPM is the red line



I think carbs are much more about tuning preference. I have had a 600cfm Holley 1850 for 37 years and it has worked well. It's hard to argue against a Summit for a stock/mild build as people seem to like them.

I put ZERO value in the concept of buying all from one "brand". It's not like Edelbrock designed a carb to work with their intake. Their carb is based on a carb design (Carter) they were able to buy.
I just watched that episode of Engine Masters and I came away with the same question I always do with their shows ... what's it like in normal, part-throttle driving? All they do is WOT and always over 3,500 rpm. With stock cam and stock heads I would think (but don't know) that the Performer will have better low speed, part throttle characteristics that the poster might desire. Hopefully someone with more/actual experience will chime in.
 

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I did teh same on my 65 C-code.

I went with the Summit brand black powdercoat dual plane intake and a Summit 500 cfm carb.

Runs great, much better than the tired 2100 . The Summit 500 cfm carb is one of the easist carbs to tune IMO.

The hardest part is fabbing a new throttle rod. I made one that is a copy of the threaded adjustable rod that many vendors sell. By the time I rounded up the parts to make it, I didnt save any time or money.

The other issue on my 65 is the transmission kickdown rod is activated by the throttle rod. No one makes a kit to make that work. So you have to fab that up yourself or put in a 67 pedal with the cable kickdown. Thats what I did and it works much better.
 

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I just watched that episode of Engine Masters and I came away with the same question I always do with their shows ... what's it like in normal, part-throttle driving? All they do is WOT and always over 3,500 rpm. With stock cam and stock heads I would think (but don't know) that the Performer will have better low speed, part throttle characteristics that the poster might desire. Hopefully someone with more/actual experience will chime in.
I have run both for extended periods of time on stock iron heads. I found no advantage to the Performer in any driving conditions. I have the same SOTP (seat of the pants) dyno that everyone has :). IMO, if all one ever plans to do is have A code performance then the Performer is fine. If one can see adding future mods, might as well get the RPM. Yes, I know K codes and a stock iron manifold, but Shelby did show the benefit of adding a mid-rise dual plane similar to the RPM.
 
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I have run both for extended periods of time on stock iron heads. I found no advantage to the Performer in any driving conditions. I have the same SOTP (seat of the pants) dyno that everyone has :). IMO, if all one ever plans to do is have A code performance then the Performer is fine. If one can see adding future mods, might as well get the RPM. Yes, I know K codes and a stock iron manifold, but Shelby did show the benefit of adding a mid-rise dual plane similar to the RPM.
Congratulations to taking this step in upgrading your small block. A dual plane aluminum intake , carb in the 500cfm to 600cfm range will perform wonderfully it will remove about 30 lbs off the front end. Your seat of the pants dyno will like it when you put your right foot to the floor. Many make KITS for this, then it boils down to price, availability, and brand recognition. Kinda like do I like COORS-BUD OR TACATE. The choice is yours and there really are no bad choices Good Luck!
 

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I agree with what's been posted so far and the big difference in the RPM is the taller deck height (1" taller than Performer?) that may cause hood clearance issues depending on air cleaner or force you to use a drop base air cleaner.

Here's an episode on Engine Masters where they tested the cheaper carbs, the commented on tuning the Summit carb and impressions. Engine Masters Cheap Carburetor Showdown
 

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Your avatar pic shows a sweep speedo. if you have a 65, then an aftermarket carb will give you some problems with the kickdown.

Actually, you dont have to have a kickdown, all it does is drop you a gear at WOT, you can do that manually.

If you know other Mustang guys, ask for help if you feel this is over your current abilities. Everyone was a noob at some point.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Yes, it is a 1965 C code 289, and yes, I’m already over my head. I’ve only had this car since October and never had it wide open, so I was not aware of this feature. I’m committed to doing this myself because other than forum member help, all I’ve found so far are “specialists” who want you to drop off your car, ask no questions, and pay whatever they deem appropriate a year down the road. Again, I’m not talking about forum members that have provided help.
 

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It is not a difficult task but time consuming with quite a few steps. A few disassembly tips:

Youtube is your friend. Also, Joe has tons of Youtube videos. Mustang How To Archives - Average Joe Restoration

Read articles and watch videos. Take a lot of pictures, draw yourself diagrams. I have a notebook with clear sleeves that I put diagrams in. I lay the one for the plug wires on the engine when I reassemble as a reference.

Take pictures of every thing. Throttle linkage, fuel line routing, vacuum hose routing and connections, heater hose connections, plug wire routing and where everything lies on the engine. When you finish, it should look just the way you started unless you decide to change something.

Check your timing before you start the project. It should be 12° BTDC

The engine has to be at top dead center on the compression stroke before you pull the distributor. I pull the #1 plug and stick a cotton ball just inside the hole. As I rotate the crank by hand, when I get close to TDC, the cotton ball shoots out, I mean shoots out. Sometimes I have to slightly adjust after the cotton ball shoots out to be exactly on TDC. I look at the timing marks and use a white Sharpie to mark the dampner where it is in line with the pointer. I also pull the #5 plug and the belts to make it a bit easier to turn the engine over. On my car I have to lie on the ground and rotate the crank from under the car unless I remove the fan, so I need a helper. Some guys have a helper bump the starter with the key or buy a remote starter they only run $15-20. I should buy one, just never got around to it.

Before removing the distributor, make a mark on the base where it enters the manifold at the #1 plug wire location. Make a corresponding mark on the manifold. Take a picture of the marks. When you reset the distributor in the new manifold there will be a reference to compare to the old manifold.

Also mark on the distributor body where the cap #1 wire is indicated. When you remove the cap you will see the rotor also points to the mark.

Take a video of you removing the distributor. The distributor gear rotates as you pull it up, you will see the rotor rotate as well. After the timing gear disengages, look at the rotor, you will see it no longer lines up with the mark on the body. Since this is your first time, it will help when you go to reset the distributor to understand what happened when you removed it.

Since you are replacing the intake, you have to drain the coolant.. You may as well replace the thermostat and the belts and hoses if they are not in excellent condition. Reuse the old thermostat housing, I have never read good things about the low quality replacements. I bought new stainless steel intake manifold bolts from Summit. You should have a 195° thermostat. Thats perfect. You cant change the heater hoses, poor design on Fords part. Thats another entire project so try not to damage the one hose you do need to remove.

I buy lots of parts from Rock Auto. Always buy oem ford or name brand. You have to watch shipping, but even with shipping I usually save 25-50% over the auto box stores.
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
This is great information but I am 😮. Does not look like there is a plug and play for a switch from a 2100 to a 4v carb. Fuel lines, linkage and kickdown all issues. Going to take a while to sort this out.
 

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On a 65 some fab is required. Its not beyond the capability of a novice. Are there no VMF members or a Mustang club in your area?

If you located a Autolite 4100 1.08 carb, it would be a plug-n-play. You could use an original cast iron manifold or an aftermarket manifold. The Summit manifold Im using has the proper screw holes for the bell crank to operate the kickdown.

You dont want the 1.12, its to big for a stock 289.

Ebay usually has a few for sale or maybe a member here has one or has one you could use as a core.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I need to replace the manifold because it has a depression that keeps leaking. I have no idea how this is happening, but I can wipe the depression clean and it seeps full of oil. I have tried contacting the mustang club in Houston by email, no response. While I don't live in Houston proper, I live within what is considered the metro area. You would think the fourth most populous city in the nation would have more clubs. I have contacted and gotten advice from VMF members, especially awhtx, but unfortunately he is a few hours away. I thank him for all his assistance.
 

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Sounds like oil is weeping up through a bolt hole. Thats an easy fix.

I would go for it, we all had to learn somewhere along the way. Maybe hold off until winter, enjoy the car while the weather is nice.
 
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I cant enjoy the car because it is not running well enough to drive. I want to get this fixed so I can drive it. Here are two photos of the leak, you can see the oil in the depression.
791837
791838
 

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Another option is to take it to a shop in Houston, supply the parts and have them do the job for you. Im sure someone here knows of a reputable shop that can do a good job without taking you to the cleaners.

It may cost a bit more upfront, but this car is a keeper so you want it done right.

This job is just bolt on parts, nothing internal so little chance someone can screw it up.

If the car is mostly original, I would look for a period manifold and a 4100. They are on ebay all the time. under the hood of my 65 it looks mostly original. Only someone who knows these cars can tell what I have changed.
791871
 
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I am open to any recommendations in the area. The last place i went to was very deceitful. Took it in running and just wanted to get the warm start issue resolved. He tried to talk me into fuel injection, I declined, he then said come pick it up. Got there, and he said it was not running at all, I would have to have it repaired. He then wanted to bill me for 631.00 for taking the carburetor apart and it not running. I questioned him and he began yelling, pounding his fist on the table, and said he was tired of me questioning him. I left and had it towed home before I made the six o'clock news. At the house, I saw where he had disconnected the battery cable so it would not start. Granted, he might have done it to work on it, but he told me it would not start, which it did. So, here we are. I called Performance Mustangs in Houston, they have a lot of good reviews and then some horrible ones. I've talked with the owner, Caren, who is very nice, but basically refuses to put anything but a 600 cfm carburetor and standard aluminum manifold because she knows better than me what I need. Again, here we are.
 
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