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Good job so far (y)
 

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Think about things that might get in the way as you re-assemble stuff. For example,
I had a small problem getting the heater hose fitting in with the distributor in place. Yours looks like it might be ok but on my cast iron intake I had to put the heater hose fitting in before stabbing the distributor back in.

Also, the lower bolt on the thermostat housing is tough to get to with the intake in place. Of course, since you’re not dealing with an ac compressor, this might be easier before the distributor is in also.
 

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Ok, update. Intake manifold is on. Now to the other items such as the vacuum line to the transmission, the water lines, the temperature sensor, the thermostat housing, the distributor and the carburetor. Any suggestions on a specific order that makes it easier?

View attachment 795229
I would suggest installing the distributor first and placing some paper towels in any open holes on the intake to prevent anything from falling into the engine. A thermostat housing bolt falling into the distributor hole would require oil pan removal. Looks good...
 

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Discussion Starter · #145 ·
At this point I am putting it back together as you can see. A few issues at this point maybe you can help me solve.

First, where to cut the metal fuel line to run a rubber one to the barbed in of the fuel line that goes to the carburetor? Where is the preferred cut to make it easy and maintain as much metal line as possible? Or, since the two lines look like different diameters, do I need to run a new line all the way to the fuel pump?

Second, is there a preferred method for the pcv line or just run it from the carburetor to the valve cover? Looks like a much smaller hose than before, is this an issue?

Lastly,any ideas on running the metal line from the distributor to the carburetor since the new carburetor does not have a direct fit connection?

795388
795390
 

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Your original fuel line is 5/16" and the new carb probably has a 3/8" fitting. I can never find brass fittings online so I have to go to the auto parts and look in their paper catalog for the fitting I need. You need a 90* fitting that has a female inverted flare to screw onto your metal fuel line and then it will have a 3/8" hose barb to attach to your carb. You can bend your metal line so that you only need a 2" piece of rubber hose to connect the 2 barbs.
You need another barb fitting that has a male inverted flare to screw into the distributor and then a run a rubber hose to the carb.
Is that brass nipple on the base of the carb the PCV port? If your existing PCV hose is too large to fit on that nipple you can buy barbed hose connectors that have a different size barb on each end. Connect the large end to your existing PCV line and then use a short piece of smaller hose to connect the smaller end to the carb.
 

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At this point I am putting it back together as you can see. A few issues at this point maybe you can help me solve.

First, where to cut the metal fuel line to run a rubber one to the barbed in of the fuel line that goes to the carburetor? Where is the preferred cut to make it easy and maintain as much metal line as possible? Or, since the two lines look like different diameters, do I need to run a new line all the way to the fuel pump?

Second, is there a preferred method for the pcv line or just run it from the carburetor to the valve cover? Looks like a much smaller hose than before, is this an issue?

Lastly,any ideas on running the metal line from the distributor to the carburetor since the new carburetor does not have a direct fit connection?

View attachment 795388 View attachment 795390
I would recommend ordering a 66 model year fuel line which runs in front of the distributor and has a barb formed on the end to keep the hose on. That Edelbrock fuel line kit has a -6AN connection with 3/8" hose barb. -6 AN Male Flare to 5/16" Hose Barb Adapter Fitting AN6 6AN -6AN 5/16 Push Lock | eBay A 5/16" to -6AN would make the connection easier
 

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Discussion Starter · #148 ·
So, if I am understanding correctly, use this fuel line for a 1966. This will connect to the fuel pump and has the connection fitting on one end.


And the other end will attach to this:


Then, it is easy to attach both barbs
 

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So, if I am understanding correctly, use this fuel line for a 1966. This will connect to the fuel pump and has the connection fitting on one end.


And the other end will attach to this:


Then, it is easy to attach both barbs
Correct, that steel line should run in front of the distributor and end close enough that you attach to the barb with a small section of hose. You may have to tweak the line some to match with the edlebrock, I would recommend the steel line versus stainless as it would be easier to tweak.


795587


795588
 

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Discussion Starter · #150 ·
Update: Waiting on the pcv fitting and hose and also the fuel line and fitting. Also trying to figure out the distributor fitting. I am going to work on the carburetor linkage but will try to sort it out. Not sure it connects like the original.

795721
 

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Discussion Starter · #151 ·
I am hoping someone has this exact setup and can provide a photo of how this linkage goes back together. I was told by Edelbrock when ordering the manifold I needed an adapter, which I purchased, but not sure how it all fits back together. It looks like the holes in the adapter plate match the holes in the manifold, and it is for the kick down function. I am not sure I have all the parts I need, I don't see any new springs in my carburetor kit. Also, where is the best and/or correct method to attach the electric choke lines?

795858


795860
 

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Discussion Starter · #152 ·
Did more research on the forum, and seems like there are many opinions on where to hook up the power for the electic choke. The stator on the alternator seem to be the easy method even though Edelbrock says not to do it this way. Many have said Ford did this for many, many years with no issues and it is just a covering statement from Edelbrock. Connecting to the alternator sure seems like the easy route. What are the thoughts, and where to grond it, any specific recommendations?
 

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I don't know if this will help you at all, but this is what I did when I put an Edelbrock on my big block in place of the Holley.

0622191532.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter · #154 ·
Thanks for all the assistance so far. Anyone have a picture or can tell me how to connect the throttle rod to the carburetor or what part number to purchase and what return spring. I just set the rod in a spot that looked correct. Also, any idea on the kick down linkage/adapter? These are all the parts that came with the carburetor.

796130
796131
 

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Discussion Starter · #155 ·
Latest update: got the fuel line connected, still needing to figure out the throttle rod and kick down linkage interaction. Also need to connect the electric choke. I was able to connect the kick down linkage to the manifold with supplied hardware, a bit of a tight fit with the vacuum connection on the manifold but should work. The bend in the accelerator rod does not make contact with the kick down mechanism at wide open throttle and thus i will need a work around. With the kick down connected to the manifold, it appears to me that it will be easier to find some work around for the accelerator rod rather than the kick down linkage. I wonder how hard it would be to find stock rod, bend it to the right shape, and then have the threads machined on the end that attaches to the accelerator linkage near the firewall? Anyone done this or bought an aftermarket accelerator rod?


796759
796761
 

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I have. I've used one that had heim joints and fit into the 'big' hole in the accelerator linkage on the carb. I think it might have been from S Drake and I got it through CJ Pony Parts. It worked well - but a little blue loctite on the ends of the heim joint is recommended. Mine worked it's way loose on a shakedown cruise and I had to drift to the side and reset.

 

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Can you move the throttle rod to the left side of the accelerator pedal rod? It's on the right side now.
 

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I guess I'm not seeing the problem. Is that short lateral section of the throttle rod not making contact with the kickdown arm?
 

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Discussion Starter · #160 ·
Exactly, that is the issue. The stock linkage accelerator rod does not engage the transmission kick down lever at wide open throttle. The lateral portion of the accelerator rod does not come far enough back when the accelerator rod is fully open so it does not make contact with the kick down mechanism; thus no engagement of the kick down mechanism. I know there might be some adjustment on the accelerator rod near the kick down, but moving the accelerator rod backwards begins to affect the carburetor as if you are applying throttle. Basically, it looks like the rod just needs to be longer with the "Z bend" at the right location.

I am having a conceptual problem thinking if I could just try to straighten the rod then re-bend it so it makes contact with the kick down mechanism, but not sure the rod is long enough. I can't believe Edelbrock has not designed a solution to this or there is not an aftermarket rod with the bend in the right place. If I were a machinist looks like it might be pretty quick. Maybe someone should go into business making this part, but maybe not that many in existence needing the part to make it viable.
 
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