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Discussion Starter #1
Hey Guys,
Will be replacing my Fuel Cell with a 22 gal EFI tank from TanksInc. My current fuel supply line (3/8 hard line) runs to a regulator on the firewall and on to my carbs. Since I'll be running a return system, is there any reason I cannot install a bypass regulator in the tank area to facilitate the need for only a short length of return hose to the tank?

The benefit of this, I won't have to touch (re-configure/bend) my current lines tor the regulator in the engine compartment. I can make all of the changes in the trunk area. I'll be removing my current external electric pump and splice in a short run to the regulator and from the regulator through an inline filter to the supply side of the tank pump. Then, run the bypass hose to the return side of the pump.

Anyone see any problems with this plan?
 

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It sounds like you are planning to do something similar to what I did for my carbureted application. I installed an in-tank pump to a return regulator set at 20 psi right in front of the tank. The return line goes right back into the tank and the supply line from the regulator runs front to a deadhead regulator in the engine bay set at 6 psi for the carburetor bowls. Works beautifully. Hope this helps.
Mark
 

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It sounds like you are planning to do something similar to what I did for my carbureted application. I installed an in-tank pump to a return regulator set at 20 psi right in front of the tank. The return line goes right back into the tank and the supply line from the regulator runs front to a deadhead regulator in the engine bay set at 6 psi for the carburetor bowls. Works beautifully. Hope this helps.
Do you have photos and part #/details for what you did? How long have you been running it like this? Very interested.
 

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Hey Guys,
Will be replacing my Fuel Cell with a 22 gal EFI tank from TanksInc. My current fuel supply line (3/8 hard line) runs to a regulator on the firewall and on to my carbs. Since I'll be running a return system, is there any reason I cannot install a bypass regulator in the tank area to facilitate the need for only a short length of return hose to the tank?

The benefit of this, I won't have to touch (re-configure/bend) my current lines tor the regulator in the engine compartment. I can make all of the changes in the trunk area. I'll be removing my current external electric pump and splice in a short run to the regulator and from the regulator through an inline filter to the supply side of the tank pump. Then, run the bypass hose to the return side of the pump.

Anyone see any problems with this plan?
Make sure your bypass line is the same size as the supply line. If the bypass line is smaller, it can over power the bypass regulator and you will have too much pressure going to the dead head regulator and carb.

I thought about doing something similar with an EFI application, but was told that it wouldn't work correctly
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Do you have photos and part #/details for what you did? How long have you been running it like this? Very interested.
Hi LeeFred,
Yes will have pics and P/Ns once I complete the over-all plan. The challenge, at the moment......assembling the correct and best AN fittings. Amazon Prime is getting a work out. LOL!

At this entry, I have abandon my original plan of retaining the firewall regulator (non-bypass) that's been I'm use for the past 15+ years. It's still a good product. Today, I pumped our approx. 17 gals of 93+ fuel and spread it over my daily driver, my XK-R, my neighborhood scooter and two lawnmowers. LOL!

I'll post a few pics today.......
 

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Here are a few pics of my setup. 8AN from the tank through the filter to the Aeromotive 13301 bypass regulator. 10AN return to the tank. 8AN up to the Aeromotive 13201 deadhead regulator in the engine bay. Been running it this way since 2014. In conjunction with this I am using an Aeromotive 16306 DDC fuel pump controller that uses a tachometer signal to slow the pump down at lower RPMs.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Update fuel cell tank ......
OK, still assembling fittings. I've quickly learned, there are so many ways to "skin a cat", as they say, relative to this project. A big "Thanks" to "j persons" for that bit of advice regarding the return line, "yes, it will be the same size.
One challenge, was fuel entry to the tank. I, quickly, learned the angle of the fuel filler pipe to the tank fill neck was different from my Fuel Cell setup. So, I ordered a '69 fuel filler inlet pipe in pursuit of a better match between the '69 tank fill inlet and the filler pipe. The angle, though close, still necessitated cutting a portion of the filler pipe and add a flexible fuel rated hose between the two. I'll have pics later.
This is a classic pic depicting, " it takes a village".........fittings and parts!
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Ok, finished the install today. Overall, spent a lot of more money on "AN" fittings than planned, because, I changed my mind a few times. Anyway it went well......
Here's some pics, ask away.......
So, what's with the cardboard? I'm looking at creating a protective floor over the tank, since the additional height of the tank is nearly level with the main deck of of the trunk. The cardboard is a template. Will plan to cover a more permanent floor with an appropriate mustang stye trunk mat.
So, the trunk mtd. regulator is only to use the "return/bypass" aspect. The fuel then flows to the regulator mid on the firewall and is further regulated to the required 3-3.5 PSI. The Fuel Cell in the pic is replaced.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
An update.......I buttoned up the details today and using the cardboard template, created a protective cover which I, then, plan to cover with OEM style trunk mat. The idea behind the use of a cover, to protect the exposed electrics and fuel lines from general "stuff" I might throw in the trunk. I should get my trunk mat next week.
Overall, my plan for this project has gone as expected.
However....my only reservation is my OEM fuel gauge used a 76/6 OHM resistor float. The replacement in this installation is a 76/10. Based on preliminary test, the difference is resulting in my fuel gauge, when supposedly "full", will fall short of the totally "full" mark by a little bit. Will know, for sure, when I "fill'er up".

In my next post, I'll offer details and P/Ns. Please know, this project is for a carbureted setup, inspire of using a EFI style tank.
 

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What did you make the tank cover out of?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
What did you make the tank cover out of?
Ok, I went through several thoughts that ranged from 1/8" masonite, a paneling type material, and polycarbonates. That area of coverage is 34 X 36".
Finally decided, to use a thick sheet of poster-board. I rationalized, it'll provide a bit of cushion and be "light", as well. It'll be protected by the mat.
It's placement is pretty much flat relative to the side trunk panels. I lose approximately 3" of trunk depth, not much in my mind.
 

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Ok, I went through several thoughts that ranged from 1/8" masonite, a paneling type material, and polycarbonates. That area of coverage is 34 X 36".
Finally decided, to use a thick sheet of poster-board. I rationalized, it'll provide a bit of cushion and be "light", as well. It'll be protected by the mat.
It's placement is pretty much flat relative to the side trunk panels. I lose approximately 3" of trunk depth, not much in my mind.
Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Ok, for anyone considering this install PM me for P/N, vendor details, and costs. As I mentioned early on, my Fuel Cell was aging. To replace the bladder and insert would of cost approx. $900-$1000, with a 5-7 year life expectancy.
My conversion cost was approx. $800 including shipping, hard parts, new trunk mat, misc. "AN"style fittings, and 3/8 twist lock style fuel line. Life expectancy ??????
 
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