[Guest]

I am restoring a 66 coupe. I have reached the painting stage and have arranged to have the car painted everywhere that the factory exterior paint was used. The dash and panels on the interior were painted a different color,right?
Do the interior spray paint cans that are sold by mustang parts suppliers work if the right person is doing the spraying? Anyone had any experience with the stuff? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Seth

 

[ShanMan]

Hi there. Yes the interior color is different than the exterior. Even if your car was black/black, the inside would have less sheen than the exterior paint. I have had good luck with laquer based paint. It goes on thinner, and requires more coats for proper coverage. The most important part about painting those doors is to remove all the existing paint so you dont "fill in" the stamped grain. I shot the paint, am not a pro, and it looks very good. You should be fine. Good luck.

Shannon a.k.a. The ShanMan! /forums/images/icons/cool.gif
66' Vintage Burgundy C-code coupe
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1571656&a=12306481&p=42935059&Sequence=2.jpg

 

[66CoupeNW]

Interior paint is definitely different than exterior for a "correct" mustang. It's a flatter finish than the high gloss exterior. As for color, that depends on the whole color scheme of your Stang. In my case, it came out of the factory with silver-blue exterior and a reasonably close matching interior color. I f you post here the exact color scheme of your car (exterior, interior, upholstry, carpet, headliner, dash pad) I'm sure the VMF experts can advise you on correctness.

The rattle can interior paints available from reputable Stang supply places work very well (did for me anyway). I think the most important thing is how you prep the surface, particularly cleaning and de-greasing. If you do multiple light coats, you'll reduce the risk of runs etc.

Good luck!

DanM
66 Coupe, check her out at http://www.66CoupeNW.stangnet.com

"Imagination is more important than knowledge. It is a miracle that curiosity survives formal education" - Albert Einstein

 

[Guest]

How would you recomend removing the existing paint? I hesitate to sand it as I don't wantto remove the faux grain in the door.

thanks,
aaron

 

[ShanMan]

Assuming you have the door stripped of all the soft stuff (seals, gaskets, panels, etc.), tape off the exterior (unless it too will get new paint later) and brush on some Jesso paint stripper. Small brushes and extreme thoroughness is well rewarded here. This should take out most of the paint from the grain. You may want to repeat this once or twice to get all the paint out. MOST important is to rinse off ALL the stripper before you repaint anything. Residual stripper will blister/remove new paint over time. That's it!

Shannon a.k.a. The ShanMan! /forums/images/icons/cool.gif
66' Vintage Burgundy C-code coupe
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1571656&a=12306481&p=42935059&Sequence=2.jpg

 

[Guest]

My coupe is silver-blue, my least favorite color, but it is coded for silver-blue. I have been propositioned by some friends and my wife to change the paint color. I am pretty set on originality, but much of the restoration has been done with after market parts and will continue to be. It is simply a standard 6 cyl coupe almost 500k made so it is not like I am bringing a GT back to life or anything. I am so afraid of regret if I were to change the color, but I have to admit when I saw Shanman's burgandy coupe I really started thinking. Should I be ashamed of myself?

 

[Smokin_Joe]

I've repainted my interior (except doors) back to the original parchment and the spray cans from Mustang vendors work very well. I got mine from NPD. The paint dries to a nice satin finish, just like the factory. Mine came out beautiful! You can use the paint on all rigid plastic, fiberglass, and metal parts. On the dash and A-pillars, I stripped all the paint down to bare metal. For the fiberglass parts, I used stripper first to remove the black, then lacquer thinner and steelwool for the rest. Stripper works well on fiberglass if you use it sparingly and don't leave it on long. It will dissolve plastic such as the console. For grained metal parts like doors, leave it on a long time. Good Luck!

Vintage Burgundy 1966 Mustang GT Fastback (Midlife's younger brother)
MCA member #46447
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1582316&a=12039610&p=44141294.jpg

 

[ShanMan]

You say "aftermarket" parts, but are they "correct parts"? If they are, and you feel strongly about keeping the car correct, than keep the paint color correct also. If not, or if you are waffling about originality, I suggest painting it a tasteful color that will make you smile every time you look at it. That is really what it's all about anyway! Thank you for the compliment on the color of my car. But for your reference, and as a point of interest, I will tell you that I have considered painting it blue many times! The vintage burgundy is the correct color for the car however, and looks good enough that I will probably leave it this color. Plus, for some reason, it is a fairly rare color around here, which is nice in a sea of red, white or black coupes. Go for it!

Shannon a.k.a. The ShanMan! /forums/images/icons/cool.gif
66' Vintage Burgundy C-code coupe
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1571656&a=12306481&p=42935059&Sequence=2.jpg

 

[bluefinger]

I always thought Vintage Burgundy was rare, but after I found this forum and we got the latest upgrade I'm starting to wonder.

Does anyone know of an approximate breakdown of production numbers by color?

BTW, Burgundy is my favorite color, it is unusual in my part of the world.

http://www.bluefinger.net/my066.jpg

Jason
Formerly Bluestangcom
"Got gas?"
Vintage Burgundy'66 Conv. 289 & C4. GT-ized
Strawberry/Silver '91GT
Guards Red 2000 Porsche Boxster
http://www.bluestang.com