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Discussion Starter #1
So my best pass was 13.9. As far as specs, the 289 is .030 over, stock compression (9.3 I think?), Comp cam .512/.512 lift 280/280 duration, Trick Flow Twisted Wedge 170 heads, Performer RPM Air-Gap intake, 570 Holley Street Avenger, and Hooker Comp long tubes. As far as getting the power to the ground, I’ve for a C4 with B&M 2400 torque converter, 8” rear with Strange posi unit and 3.80 gear. I’m not really having any trouble hooking up.

To be honest, I was really disappointed with the results considering all the money I’ve got in the motor. I could probably shave another couple tenths off my time by increasing the shift light past 6000 but still not gonna get me where I wanna be. So what would have to happen to get me below 12 seconds? I don’t think that’s an unreasonable goal. It’s pitiful to lose to some modern cars that are bone stock. I know I could obviously just shoot it with nitrous but that’s probably not great on the stock bottom end and I want the power to be N/A. Thoughts?
 

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My setup is quite similar to yours and I feel exactly the same way. I'm no expert but I'm thinking the best option for me to reach the power goals I have in mind would be a 347 roller block. They are not cheap but at least I'd be able to bolt everything I have to it.
 

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There is no replacement for displacement but there are substitutes. You are asking allot from a 289 IMO.

Modern cars are really efficient these days and 4 cylinders have more power than respectable old V8s. The better 3/4 Sorento (6cyl) is 290 HP. I wish they would put the twin turbo version from the stinger in it with it's 365hp.
 

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Where is the car when you shift to third?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
There is no replacement for displacement but there are substitutes. You are asking allot from a 289 IMO.
I realize displacement is the way to HP but I don’t think sub-12 from a 289 is so unreasonable. I’ve got a 460 that I could stroke to a 557 and really get crazy but I’d like to save that motor for another project, maybe something Pro Street.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Correction, best time was 13.398. Just looked up the slip.
 

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a member on here Dennis something ? has a 65/66 with the front wheels hanging in has avatar doing 10 something I think supposedly with a 289
 

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Those are impressive times for a 289 but I think anything past that is going to be increasingly costly and difficult to get. You might gain a little with a custom made torque converter for your application instead of an off the shelf one. You need to loose another .5 seconds to get there Hmm. A mild shot of nitrous could possibly get you there. Nothing big enough to worry about engine damage.

If you were to go with a stroker engine I would be thinking of swapping those 170s out for larger runner heads at the same time and that puts you down another rabbit hole...
 

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Dimples
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How much have you raced it?

A well-sorted classic Mustang with a small block Ford should definitely be capable of a sub 12 second pass.

That said, there are a million factors that play into that run from temperature to tire pressure and a whole lot more. Weight reduction, tons of tuning, atmospheric conditions, etc, etc, etc.

You didn’t mention tires. Are you running street radials or what? If this is on a set of BFG TA’s, you could probably trim close to a second with slicks.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
How much have you raced it?

A well-sorted classic Mustang with a small block Ford should definitely be capable of a sub 12 second pass.

That said, there are a million factors that play into that run from temperature to tire pressure and a whole lot more. Weight reduction, tons of tuning, atmospheric conditions, etc, etc, etc.

You didn’t mention tires. Are you running street radials or what? If this is on a set of BFG TA’s, you could probably trim close to a second with slicks.
I’ve taken 7 passes with it.

I’m running street tires, but as I said, I’m not having too much of an issue hooking up. I agree that a set of slicks could help, but I don’t think that alone will get me sub-12.
 

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Do you wanna really race the car, cruise the car, drive it to the track and swap a diff, race then swap again to drive home, or trailer it? At some point, that may be too much rear gear, or you may need more, say 4.11s. At some point, you'll trash the stock rod bolts, rods, maybe the crank...At some point, you'll float valves... Do you have a streetable tune on the carb or does it idle like shiz with 4 big jets and burn your eyes until WOT and then will eat all you can feed it? Electric fuel pump and regulator? Mufflers or cut-outs on what diameter pipes to scavenge? Line Loc? Ignition box? Limiter? Total timing? Any accessories on the engine? Electric water pump? Total weight in the car? Soooooo many variables...
I can breath really well, but I'm heavier than I was in high school so I can't run like I used to...but, like the 289, I still have the respect of the newer models.
 
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If you're running street tires and aren't having traction issues there's definitely something amiss. Was the torque converter an off the shelf unit that you picked out or did you have the manufacturer give you a recommendation based on your car specs? What rpms are you launching at, what is your 60 foot times?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
If you're running street tires and aren't having traction issues there's definitely something amiss. Was the torque converter an off the shelf unit that you picked out or did you have the manufacturer give you a recommendation based on your car specs? What rpms are you launching at, what is your 60 foot times?
The torque converter is off the shelf but was chosen based on my cam.

Not sure what RPM’s I’m launching at since I’m usually watching the tree, but my 60 ft time is 2.088.
 

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The torque converter is off the shelf but was chosen based on my cam.

Not sure what RPM’s I’m launching at since I’m usually watching the tree, but my 60 ft time is 2.088.
torque converters are the most important piece of the puzzle IMO, and they just don’t work that way. The correct converter takes in way too many variables for any OTS converter to be right. I'm betting the converter isn’t stalling anywhere near the optimum for the engine. Most OTS converters seem like they’re rated behind a 500 cubic inch motor in a 5000 lb truck.
a member on here Dennis something ? has a 65/66 with the front wheels hanging in has avatar doing 10 something I think supposedly with a 289
Lol, Dennis doesn’t have a 289.......
 

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Do you wanna really race the car, cruise the car, drive it to the track and swap a diff, race then swap again to drive home, or trailer it? At some point, that may be too much rear gear, or you may need more, say 4.11s. At some point, you'll trash the stock rod bolts, rods, maybe the crank...At some point, you'll float valves... Do you have a streetable tune on the carb or does it idle like shiz with 4 big jets and burn your eyes until WOT and then will eat all you can feed it? Electric fuel pump and regulator? Mufflers or cut-outs on what diameter pipes to scavenge? Line Loc? Ignition box? Limiter? Total timing? Any accessories on the engine? Electric water pump? Total weight in the car? Soooooo many variables...
I can breath really well, but I'm heavier than I was in high school so I can't run like I used to...but, like the 289, I still have the respect of the newer models.
Well there’s you a doomsday picture full of assumptions and myths.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I’d upload one of my passes so you could see but Youtube is being an uncooperative butthole right now.
 

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I’ve taken 7 passes with it.

I’m running street tires, but as I said, I’m not having too much of an issue hooking up. I agree that a set of slicks could help, but I don’t think that alone will get me sub-12.
That’s helpful to know. 7 passed isn’t enough to get everything out of the car. Too many variables to isolate, test and optimize.

Also, as Scott said, if you aren’t having traction issues with street tires, something else is amiss.

I think your list of parts could quite reasonably land you with the time you’re looking for, but it’ll take more passes, more tweaking and maybe some parts swaps and slicks. I’m no torque converter expert, so I can’t advise you on selection, but I agree that it’s a key component that will have a lot to do with your results.
 

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I bet it took 30 passes before we started getting my car figured out, and at least 50 to really start getting it dialed in.

for the converter, it really is something I feel you need to have built, and they can be not that much more expensive. BTE has a good budget converter and they do great work. There’s so much more involved in a converter than stall. Shift recovery RPM is huge and it’s just something an OTS converter can’t optimize for your car. My motor wasn’t all that powerful but the converter worked very well.
 

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First of all you need to focus more on the trap speed than the E.T. That will tell you if you have enough horsepower to run your goal versus whether you have enough traction. Secondly, yes it is possible with a 289 but would be easier with a larger engine. Dennis, who is mentioned on here runs 9s with a 351 windsor stroker not a 289. There was Alex (MoneyMaker Racer) ran tens or so with a 289 but this was a super stocker, definitely not a street car.

A good recipe for a 289 running LOW 11s that is somewhat streetable is 289Nate who was a member on SBFtech and Ford Muscle Forums. He ran low elevens at over 120 mph trap speed with a t5z and 4.56 gears. He still drove it on the street. You can still find his the info on his build on SBFtech although it's been a few years.

As for your build I would say 13.3 is not bad and probably has more potential assuming the engine is in good condition. You have a cam with quite a bit of duration and are only revving it to 6000. I would experiment with higher shift points assuming you have enough valve spring. As mentioned the right converter can make a huge difference. Often having someone pick a custom camshaft can make a huge difference. Good luck!
 
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