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Discussion Starter #1
I recently put a remanu. carb and new distributor on my I6.
The car is running great. no problems really at all so far. I finally fixed the rough running engine the PO left me.

But, the car sort of burps after I shut her down if she was running long or hard. It's like a rumble, soft farty burp. Not a backfire, but part way there.

Is this a normal function for this engine, or is something off.

Also, this morning I went out to start the car and the first crank was a solid whirr. No turn, almost the sound it would make if it was already running, and I had tried to start it again. It started fine on the second crank, but I was thinking maybe they are related? Or I am just being too pissy.


What ya think?

Jimbo65

65 I6 200 Coupe (Daily Driver)
 
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Discussion Starter #2
Jimbo, sounds like the timing may be a bit off. Mine used to do the same thing however till I dropped in a Duraspark. How come you didn't consult us before you put in a reman'd stocker? Chances are it was just trying to diesel. Does it ever ping or rattle on you when you accelerate? Are you still running points in it?

The starting noise is not related. That's just your starter there. The armature or bendix may be going south. How old is it?

John

[color:blue]'68 Coupe
250/C4, 221 Argentine Head
Breakaway Converter, 9", 3.50's/T-lock</font color=blue>
 
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Discussion Starter #3
As far as the whirr goes. Sounds like the bendix drive in the starter is having some problems. Easy cheap repair.Buy a new bendix and replace it
Now for the burping. Could be a bit too high an idle so the throttle blade is not closed enough when you shut it down. Does it have a dashpot on the carb?. Or possibly a bit too much timing advance

Greg B
 
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Discussion Starter #4
First, the starter is original. Looks like it.

Second, yes on the points, it is pinging a little, I think, I'm not sure, there is a sound there, jiher pitched than it was before. I had the carb rebuilt, cause I was having trouble finding a new replacement. The shop that did the work did a decent job. It is a Carter YF RBS.

I worked my little ass off on that carb, and could never get it to run right. So I did the worst. I took it in and paid for it. The shop replaced the dist. and let me send off the carb. They set the timing, I will check it tonight. It may be off?


Jimbo65

65 I6 200 Coupe (Daily Driver)
 
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Discussion Starter #5
It is at a high idle before shutoff...

Jimbo65

65 I6 200 Coupe (Daily Driver)
 
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Discussion Starter #6
It's the timing. It's always the timing.

Here's my rant: my I6 won't time to specs. If I time that pup to 6BTDC, it will run for three days or 'til it runs out of gas when I shut off the ignition. I thot the dist. installed off or timing chain had jumped a tooth, but it seems not when I rotate everything around manually with a ratchet wrench on the crank pulley. Anywhere around 12 to 32 degrees seems to make it happy.

Put the Ignitor and flamethrower in, 8mm silicon plug wires, Bosch platinums. Didn't seem to make much diff. Futzed around with wires seeming to bind the plate and loosened them up so much they wrapped around the rotor and pulled the black one out (close to the box, of course). Soldered it back together with what was left (else $60 down the drain - DeWayne?) and stuck some shrink wrap on it for support. It's still sitting on my workbench. Afraid to put it back in and have it separate due to sketchy microsoldering. Points are back in.

This car tunes me, I don't tune the car...

P.S. Is it at high idle? Are you kidding? I have worked on this thing for MONTHS to get it to idle at specs (575 - 600). No way, Jose! 800 - 1200 or it DIES. I am pulling out my ten remaining hairs...

Dan
Be a good dad to your kids and phone your mom twice a week...
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<P ID="edit"><FONT SIZE=-1>Edited by 66CalPoppyCoupe on 03/22/01 10:50 AM (server time).</FONT></P>
 
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Discussion Starter #7
OK so here I go.

I will check the timing tonight. It seems from the symptoms that the timing as advanced a little. Also the engine may be idling too high.

So I will check both.

I have only one question on this.

When I set the timing, I pull the vac adv. off the dist. and plug the hose. Do I also plug the dist outlet? or leave that open. I am a newbie on this and want to learn this for myself. I am tired of having to get help on this seemingly simple stuff.

Thanks

Jimbo65

65 I6 200 Coupe (Daily Driver)
 

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Before replacing the starter, check your starter bolts to insure they're tight. If the starter bolts are vibrating out, it will "whirl" as you described ... otherwise it's time to budget for a starter.

Drop the idle down to specks and time it by ear ... don't trust 30+ year old timing marks that are only heald in place with a piece of rubber ... they DO slip over the years.

If you always do what you've always done,
You'll always get what you've always got

http://www.classic-mustang.net/johnpro
 

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Nah, just plug it on the carb side to prevent the vaccum leak. With the hose disconnected, the vacuum advance can't do anything, so there's no need to plug it on the distributor side as well.

Don't even use a timing light ... just turn the dist. clockwise to obtain the highest idle, then back off just touch. Drop the idle back down to an acceptible level and go test drive it. If it pings, back off the timing (turn dist. counter-clockwise) a little and re-test until there's no pinging.

If you always do what you've always done,
You'll always get what you've always got

http://www.classic-mustang.net/johnpro<P ID="edit"><FONT SIZE=-1>Edited by johnpro on 03/22/01 10:58 AM (server time).</FONT></P>
 
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Discussion Starter #10
Hey, thanks man.... the suggestions are great and I will take matters into my own hands....

Thanks again...

I will check the starter bolts. If I need to replce the starter can I just go into autozone and get another. What should I be looking for. They are not the most reliable source of information on the stang....


Thanks

Jimbo65

65 I6 200 Coupe (Daily Driver)
 

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The starter in my '66 is straight from Autozone. It's been completely trouble free for 2 years and running now.

Keep up posted on the progress.

If you always do what you've always done,
You'll always get what you've always got

http://www.classic-mustang.net/johnpro
 
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Discussion Starter #12
Hehe, johnpro better stick to bent eights IMO /forums/images/icons/wink.gif

Turning the distributor clockwise will RETARD your timing. If it pings then turn it clockwise just a bit so it doesn't. Don't rely on a timing light - the balancer has surely moved. That's probably why you are in the boat you are. This is also why it's idling so high.

Never seen a Carter YF/RBS it's one of the two. Both great carbs for the 200 if rebuilt properly though.

John *Glad to be rid of points*

[color:blue]'68 Coupe
250/C4, 221 Argentine Head
Breakaway Converter, 9", 3.50's/T-lock</font color=blue><P ID="edit"><FONT SIZE=-1>Edited by FordInliner on 03/22/01 12:25 PM (server time).</FONT></P>
 
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Discussion Starter #13
Careful with the starter on the I6. I had a 67 Stang with an I6,and it started fine until one day. It made a strange noise and stopped cranking. When I pulled the starter off,the whole gear drive assembly fell out of the starter. Thinking it was fine,I replaced the starter. About two days later I was driving on the highway,and a huge cloud of smoke was billowing out from behind the poor car.
It turns out that the the starter bearings had fallen into the bellhousing and cracked one of the torque convertor mounting studs. The leaking fluid was slung onto the exhaust pipe,causing the smoke. The bellhousing cracked also in the process. Just a word of warning from a new guy....If you have any doubts about your starters,replace them,,,,,,65Falconguy
 
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Discussion Starter #14
It's the Carter YF, and it was rebuilt very well.
It looks and runs great.

I am glad you posted that change. I would have gone the wrong way. I went out at lunch and cranked the dist back a few degrees. The engine slowed and purred into a nice clean run. I went out and drove around, stopped and started couple of times, and no burps. It started and stopped nice, Idle sounds better too.

I also blew a vacume outlet cover on the intake manifold, probably popped of this morning I had a big burp after I got to work.

I will keep running and turning till I find the right spot.
(Although it seems fine now. We'll see)

(I hooked up the light, just for reference, The mark was right on, but like you said, that was probably the problem)

Thanks

Jimbo65

65 I6 200 Coupe (Daily Driver)
 
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Discussion Starter #15
I looked up the starter on Autozone's site.

They have three listed for a 66 stang....

They are:

1. Duralast DL3131 S-2 max amp 110 for $29.99
2. Valucraft 3131 S-2 max amps 110 for $24.99
3. Hi-Torque S-2 max amps 110 for $169.99?


What?



Jimbo65

65 I6 200 Coupe (Daily Driver)
 
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Discussion Starter #16
Well, Jimbo yet another area of my expertise /forums/images/icons/wink.gif I just happen to work at AutoZone... Go with the Duralast. It's a lifetime warranty. I have one for my 250 and my 200. The valucraft is only a 1 year warranty. You won't need the high torque unless you are running over 11:1 compression!

Isn't it a beautiful thing once you get the inline running right? Most people that have the sixes in an old car don't know enough about them and they get a bad name.

John

[color:blue]'68 Coupe
250/C4, 221 Argentine Head
Breakaway Converter, 9", 3.50's/T-lock</font color=blue>
 

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Sorry, missed the part about the I6. Thanks for the correction ... and yes, I should probably stick to the bent 8's /forums/images/icons/smile.gif

If you always do what you've always done,
You'll always get what you've always got

http://www.classic-mustang.net/johnpro
 
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Discussion Starter #18
John ( Ford Inliner), Tell me more about the so called "hi torque" starter.

I'm tired of mine cranking over ever so slowly!!!

I have yet to wire that coil kill switch up on mine that Jeff was telling me about.

Maybe I should do a combination of both????
Later,

Doug

[color:blue]66 Mustang Coupe 206ci</font color=blue>
[color:red]Six Packer Performance Freak</font color=red>
11.1 Compression/ 6,000 RPM/Clifford Cam & Valve Train
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Discussion Starter #19
The 3131 starter just happens to be the same unit used on 390,427,428's Its quite a bit more than what is needed for a 6, but thats what it calls for. Leave the HiTorque for the big blocks, its overkill for the 6

Greg B
 
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Discussion Starter #20
Greg, So the big Block starter will interchange on to our inline 6's????

Mine has a new starter but way to much compression for it.....It cranks over very slowly!
Later,

Doug

[color:blue]66 Mustang Coupe 206ci</font color=blue>
[color:red]Six Packer Performance Freak</font color=red>
11.1 Compression/ 6,000 RPM/Clifford Cam & Valve Train
http://inlinefever.homestead.com/files/sig_pic.jpg
 
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