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Discussion Starter #1
I ordered inner wheelhouses to use for patches and they are on the way, but I have since decided to change out one quarter and the entire wheelhouse on the drivers side and dont know if I should just order an outer to match the inner that I have already paid for or if I should order a complete unit? Is there any real difference in fit etc..? It seems like it's 6 of one 1/2 dozen of another to me?
 

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Just wanted to 'bump' your question up to the top since I'm approaching this decision myself. I have no clue what to do. :(
 

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The one piece outer / inner unit is certainly nice to have and cuts down on the work. Since you already purchased the inner I would go ahead and buy the outer and weld the two units together. Since you are doing the work you definately should do the outers as well. Good Luck!
 

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I ordered inner wheelhouses to use for patches and they are on the way, but I have since decided to change out one quarter and the entire wheelhouse
I purchased the right hand rear outer wheel house half for my 65 coupe. The original outer wheel house and quarter had been crushed in at one time. I had to section it and weld it back together to get the fender to NOT stick out further than it was supposed to. One place where this shows up is when you try to install the rear valance. Where the ends of the valance meet the quarters, there will be an inch plus gap. Next time you go to a car show, it is easy to find the cars that had quarters and wheel house replaced because you will find this large gap where the valance ends meet the quarters.

Just a heads up. I had heard this complaint and found lots of examples of the results.

I went as far as to purchase another right hand rear outer wheel house half from NPD. They sell 2 different ones. One is silver and the other is painted black. They are dimensionally identical. so I sectioned the silver one and welded it back together.

BTW, I had to search your other posts to find out that you were talking about a 65. How about putting more info in your profile?

John
 

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Glazier/Nolan tells me the repro doesn't quite give the fit of the original. They typically have to slice and buttweld the outer portion a little narrower to get a factory-like fit.
 

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GN also says to buy them separate so you can float the outer into the wheel opening.

I think that is good advice.

Having said that,, I already had the inner outer combo from Dynacorn.

I also had a NOS inner and a "not dyancorn" outer.

I first tried to get the dynacorn pre assembled version to fit, without success. Would not sit down in the front far enough for the wheel opening lip to be against the 1/4 lip.

So I switched to trying to make the off brand outer, NOS inner to work. Got it close, BUT, it had some issues I just couldn't get right. I think it needed to be sectioned like 22GT said.

So, I went back to working on the dynacorn inner outer. I found by making two 5" slices in the front and re welding, I could get it to sit down perfect. I'm just about ready to weld it on.

In the pics below, the first is the NOS inner, second the dynacorn assy, 3rd, is the no brand outer, 4th the dyancorn assy.

Now that I know how to slice and dice the assembled version, that is what I am going to use on the PS.

I'll take some pics tomorrow of the cuts i made.
 

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That would really help me out if you would.
Will do.

Could you measure your trap door opening for me? I had to cut out behind the deck lid hinge. I took a bunch of measurements, and somehow didn't take down the width? I'm hoping the opening is rectangular with the top width the same as the bottom.

Below are some pics of what i did, I need to figure out if I clamped it in the right spot:
 

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If you still have your fold down trap door use it as a pattern to make sure, but I will go & measure mine today (I have 2 so I will check both) & let you know what they are. Actually
 

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If you still have your fold down trap door use it as a pattern to make sure, but I will go & measure mine today (I have 2 so I will check both) & let you know what they are. Actually
Thanks, That is a good suggestion. I did put the trap door in the opening. I have the hinges and hardware packed away in boxes, along with all the plastic surrounding panels.

Without actually assembling all that, I can't tell exactly where to put it. I'm probably close enough, but measurements would help me sleep better,lol.
 

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I first tried to get the dynacorn pre assembled version to fit, without success. Would not sit down in the front far enough for the wheel opening lip to be against the 1/4 lip.
I suspect, like later model problems, this will 'go away' now that Dynacorn is about to sell 65 Mustang fastback and convertible bodies.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
22GT, it makes one wonder if the aftermarket parts they sell work better together with each other than with OEM metal? I would love to have a stock unmolested shell and a new dynacorn shell, a piece of string and a cloth tape measure to check it all out.
 

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22GT, it makes one wonder if the aftermarket parts they sell work better together with each other than with OEM metal? I would love to have a stock unmolested shell and a new dynacorn shell, a piece of string and a cloth tape measure to check it all out.
I'm sure there will be differences.

In some non visible places, the do make changes. The trunk corner, for example is totally different than the ford unit, and extends around the tail light. The ford unit is two pcs (or three depending on how you look at it), and the part around the tail light is included with the 1/4, but it is a welded in separate piece.

I'm real interested as to how they will do all the fastback substructure under the rear window, and if they will sell the parts besides as part of the whole shell. As you can see in the pictures above, I got a lot of rust in that area and replacing those parts would be a lot easier than fixing the ones I have.

I think the fastback shell may still be a ways away so I'm proceeding as if I'll never see those parts.
 
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