[twotoots2]

I just got a brand new suspension kit for the front of the 65 coupe, and they didn't send the idler arm I ordered./forums/images/icons/tongue.gif Nor did they charge for one either. If my old one is in good enough shape, maybe it will be ok right?

So I go to wiggle the ball joint on the end. It acts frozen. I go to turn the arm on the mounting shaft. It acts frozen too. I place the thing in the vise to turn the arm. The vise can't hold it. So is this telling me the idler arm is better than new....or is it rusted froze and needs replaced? I feel stupid even asking this for a $45.00 part. But do idler arms get hammered like other suspension parts or is this a less than normal wear item vs the other parts? My gut feeling is to replace the thing.... Thanks.

 

[autoxsteve]

Well, well, well...

I recently installed a Shelby quick steering kit, which includes an idler arm (duh). When I went to remove the existing idler arm, it was frozen to the idler arm shaft that mounts to the fram rail.

I suspect that it was frozen because:
1) It was over 20 years old and had been to hell and back as I have been at the whell all that time/forums/images/icons/shocked.gif.
2) Due to the exposure to good old H20 and dirt, the steel sleeve on the inside of the idler arm bushing 'rusted' itself ot the shaft, causing the 'trouble'.
3) The design of the standard idler arm bushing 'enables' the rotation of the idler arm while the interior sleeve is 'clamped' between the idler arm and base of the idler arm shaft.
4) Who cares, just purchase the roller bearing idler arm bearings and the Shelby Quick steering kit from Tony Branda and be-off!

Mustangs Plus has the roller bearing kits....

 

[robbie]

with out being there it is hard to tell but a new OEM style idler will not turn by hand as the bushing is all that gives,,it may be fine ,,BUT I'd get a new one just for peace of mind

 

[basketcase]

Just took off my old idler arm yesterday and it would not turn like you described. The problem was the sleeve was rusted to the stud. I had to drill out the rubber center and around the center link stud and then heat up the sleeve to get it off. You might as well put out the $45 and get a new one. I will be worth the piece of mind alone.

 

[Art]

Be sure the wheels are pointed straight ahead when you tighten down on the serrations