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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...30198781862&ssPageName=ADME:X:RTQ:MOTORS:1123

I've been out of my 66 vert for a few months and really liked this 68 on ebay. He's in Dallas and the car looks pretty good. Was a GT 390 - now has a 302 with the C6. My thought is I can always find a date correct 390 in the future. Does that totally destroy the "big block GT" value? What does the VMF community think? I'm arranging to put a deposit on it today or Sunday. ANY help is greatly appreciated.
WG
 

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I bought my 67 GT 390 Fastback with a 302 C4, I got a pretty good deal but spent way too much money hunting down the correct parts, I gave up and went with period correct but not date code correct it got too difficult. That being said I was never planning on going full concours just close, I have gone a little further away from concours than I thought I would, if I had the correct date coded engine I might have stayed closer to concours.

JMHO - Don't underestimate the cost of getting a correct engine in there.
 

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Having the correct motor will increase the value of the car substantially, the fact that it will not be the motor that came with the car from the factory, does hurt the value a little bit, but having the 302 it has now really kills the value.

Are you close enough to inspect the car?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I'm 20 minutes from the car and can inspect it. I thought $10k - $13K for a nice coupe with factory A/C (and the listed accessories) is still a decent price if its in great shape. Paint is usually the biggest expense. If it's nice - and the lime gold is BY FAR my favorite color) then I'm fairly content to drive the car with the small block. Any thoughts on potential future value? I'm pretty sure I could alwyas get my $$ back out of it.
WG
 

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nashtx said:
Any thoughts on potential future value? I'm pretty sure I could alwyas get my $$ back out of it.
WG
You'll have to keep in mind the color combo of this car also detracts from the value. Although, it was a popular color in the 60s and you like it, many potential buyers typically would not.
 

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Never seen screens like that over the horns before.


Looks like a real nice car with an even greater option list. I will say that green is one of my favorite colors but not the Lime Gold shade. Lime Gold does look good on certain cars and with the black vinyl roof it goes quite well with that car. If that was my car I would be proud to own it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
marksrs said:
nashtx said:
Any thoughts on potential future value? I'm pretty sure I could alwyas get my $$ back out of it.
WG
You'll have to keep in mind the color combo of this car also detracts from the value. Although, it was a popular color in the 60s and you like it, many potential buyers typically would not.
Detracts?!?!?! Really?!?!?!
I thought this is THE classic Mustang color... they even put it on the newer 05s-08s. For my taste, red is too typical... I'm not a fan of black or white cars... Brittany blue with white accents would be my next choice. Thanks for the input. Still undecided.
 

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nashtx said:
Detracts?!?!?! Really?!?!?!
I thought this is THE classic Mustang color... they even put it on the newer 05s-08s. For my taste, red is too typical... I'm not a fan of black or white cars... Brittany blue with white accents would be my next choice. Thanks for the input. Still undecided.
Look at the car in person and see what you think.

Let us know after you get a close up inspection.
 

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True, pictures can tell lies but that color is not accurate. Think the photography is on target, though, as the real colors come out in the interior. It looks original as there are so many different shades of green. Time changes interior parts different than another. But that outside green is off and it looks fresh. Big detract for me is the undercoat-all over everything, and it looks fresh.Notice the AC is disconnected-probably a few hundred dollar repair. A correct Mustang 390 engine is hard to find, let alone a date correct one. Would sure want to pour some water in the cowl. Knowing that before buying would affect the price dramatically. An indash AC makes for a major deal, if cowl repair is necessary. Certainly a big bargaining chip. Back to the color, if you like it the way it is and the above things mentioned turn out well, would try to get it for 12,000 max. That is a generous offer, A picky comment, I suppose, but the AC compressor appears to be later than 68, owing to the larger pulley. Would want to know just what the 302 came out of and date.
 

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Factory big block cars are getting harder to find. You can always fix the things wrong with a big block car. You can not turn a factory small block car into a true s or R code. If you like what you see and can afford it, go for it. I wish I would have bought more big block shelbys when I thought 40,000 was to much for one.
 

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First I must say I do not want to bash this particular car but you came for some help so here goes

1- please understand that you will never have a matching numbers - top dollars car here. The original engine and trans with the VIN are long gone. Even finding a correctly dated engine with full thermactor and all the rest will nto be easy or cheap (think $6000 or more by the time you are done)

Beyond that I do have some concerns (if it were me buying this car) but they are likely minor little picky things that may not be anything to you. Feel free to PM me if you want to discuss them. I will not go into them further in public during a current auction
 

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I have no idea how to tell based on a web-shot if a color is "accurate"?? I can tweak colors all day long with different monitor and display settings... let alone camera settings... but some folks have gifts other don't! My Lime Gold goes from almost yellow to dark green in photos depeding on light/exposure/etc...

IMHO, if its the car you "want" go for it.

As Jeff notes, replacing the original 390 and trans with correct will be a significant cost. But very doable.

40 years on finding a "matching numbers cars" is getting tough. Not a lot of engines and transmissions survived that long and back-in-the-day a lot of folks just replaced a flogged big block/trans with a service replacement or other that was lying around instead of rebuilding (doubt they were worried someone 30-odd years down the track was going to look at a few stamped numbers on a block or casing to verify "original".

And as far as I know not all '68s were even stamped to begin with (IIRC it became a requirement in '69 and AFAIK Ford did "some" in '68 to begin compliance, more big blocks than not). So even if it was "matching" the odds are its just the block and trans housing. Nice to have, but...

You can find date correct parts, they do cost more than a generic replacement. Depends on what you want to do.

Don't get me wrong, I am trying to restore two S codes to near "origianl" condition, but some of these issue just fall into the "theoretical" IMHO... To me a replaced block and trans just mean they are newer, same castings... the car is still a beauty with a LOT of nice options!

Very nice car, if i was closer and did not have two S codes already I'd give it a serious look. Only 863 '68 S GT hardtops made.... a lot fewer than than left on the road today... go for it!
 

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True, pictures can tell lies but that color is not accurate. Think the photography is on target, though, as the real colors come out in the interior. It looks original as there are so many different shades of green.
Sorry photography is not on target, it's a little off, especially the fill flash and in this case pictures can also not lie to me, they show mw how th ephotographer took these shots!!!!
Speaking from a professional point of view, my opinion is the color is good, the photographs have had WAY to much "Fill Flash" added to the shots which is making the metallic silver in the color too react and is washing out the true color of LGM..... With the direct sunlight in theses shots there would be very little need for any flash especially on the wide exterior shots. Yes use some for the engine bay and interior!!! Look at the shot of the interior passenger side front seat, they have used that much fill flash it has turn the seat white, instead of the green/ grey original color. And the one of the front wheel and GT badge. SO too some up, please don't take the web shots as a good representation of the true Lime Gold Metallic of this car, especially nay close up shots, the wider overall shots seem to be a better and morre truer example of the color.
 

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I can tell you from doing many that redoing a Ford BB will easily cost you 10K + if you want to do it reasonably accurate with the smog and all other components. I think that would put this car out of "good investment" range. But lets face it how many of these cars have ever really been good investments.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Jeff_Speegle said:
First I must say I do not want to bash this particular car but you came for some help so here goes

1- please understand that you will never have a matching numbers - top dollars car here. The original engine and trans with the VIN are long gone. Even finding a correctly dated engine with full thermactor and all the rest will nto be easy or cheap (think $6000 or more by the time you are done)

Beyond that I do have some concerns (if it were me buying this car) but they are likely minor little picky things that may not be anything to you. Feel free to PM me if you want to discuss them. I will not go into them further in public during a current auction
I greatly appreciate all the advice but I'm not sure I'd EVER go after pursuing a BB replacement but thought the nice GT and other options would make it a fun driver for me and the family.
My ideas of the cost to replace a date correct 390 was about right $6k-$8k - even though it would never command top dollar, it would still make it a nice "keeper". I'll know more when I look at it and drive it on Monday.
Thanks WG
 

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If you look closely it looks like a lot of little stuff just got painted over :(


BTW to all (and the original question person) the VIN on the engine and trans on all cars started in 68. Federal requirement for US cars
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Thanks to all.
I'm just not sure about this situation - translates to "better options out there". If anyone knows of a 67GTA or 68 GT coupe. Send them my way.
Again, thanks to all.
WG
 

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I agree.I would consider a 428 for that car.It sure would not take away from the value.the 390 are still out there and available, a nice engine to build. :grin:
 

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The undercoating really bothers me. A lot of times it is done because there is something to hide. You would be surprised how many sins you can cover up with some aluminum duct tape and heavy undercoating.

As for the motor and value: if you put an FE in it you will NOT get your money back out of it although it will increase the value of the car.

If you decide to go FE then you might as well stroke a 390 to 430 cubic inches. Can't tell from the outside anyhow.

I would not be interested in a big block car with a small block in it. It's a real letdown at shows when people see the "S" engine code and then you open the hood.
 
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